TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Star (Christchurch), Volume XLIV, Issue 145, 20 June 1931, Page 22 (Supplement)

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

(CORRESPONDENTS will greatly oblige by observing the following rules in sending questions for publication in these columns:— * 1. —Letters should be in not later than Thursday to be answered the following week—addressed to Garden Editor, “ Star ” Office, Christchurch. 2. —Write on one side of the paper, and make all communications as concise as possible. 3. —Flowers, etc., sent for naming, must be sent separately, and, if possible. packed in a tin or wooden box—cardboard boxes are very liable to be broken in transit and the contents damaged. 4. —The full name and address of the sender must always be sent, but a nom de plume or initial may be given for publication.

“Inquirer,” New Brighton, writes:— Would you please let me know the correct time for topping tamarisk

You can do the work any time during the winter, and before the new growth starts in the spring. There is a variety that Is more dwarf than the tree tamarisk, and which flowers in the springtime. This should be cut down as soon as the flowering is over. New strong growth will be produced during late spring and summer which gives bloom the following spring. The wellknown tree tamarisk T. gallica flowers in the summer and it is understood that this is the variety of which you write. “Amateur” says:—Being an Interested reader of your gardening notes I would be thankful if you could kindly inform me: (1) When is the proper time to shift rose trees (standards and other varieties)? (2) How would one go about the procedure of shifting them?

(1) As soon as you can after growth ceases. Subject to seasonal conditions we usually recommend May but this year June has been early enough. You could get into the work right away. (2) Since the soil is so dry give it a thorough soaking with water. If frosts aro likely protect soil with dry sacks overnight. Never lift plants in frosty weather. Never leave roots exposed to cold or drying winds. Prior to lifting prune out all weak, thin and dead wood, cut back healthy wood by half. Put spade under root on one side and wrench plant up slightly. Remove some of the top soil, and put spade in on the other side, lifting the plant completely out of the ground. The soil will not hold to rose roots. Prune any strong roots and cut back any damaged roots. If roots are dry, and they are likely to be so in spite of the soaking of the previous day, immerse them in water for half an hour while preparing the new holes or bed. The new place shoijld have as liberal a dressing of cow manure as can be provided. Failing that a moderate dusting of bonedust is spread on the ground and forked in. Open a hole sufficient to receive the roots well spread out, but not too deep. The portion of the root that has received the bud in the nursery row should be just below soil level and no more. This is distinguished by the swelling (in dwarf and climbing roses) from which the main shoots emanate. Shake some fine soil among the ropts. firm it with the foot, add more soil until the hole Is filled, firming it also. If npt too late in the evening when frosts are likely give each plant a bucket of water. It helps to settle it. Standards are put in with the topmost root six inches below the surface. Never forget the stake—it is most important. Thank you fur the postscript.

Linwood ’’ asks: —Would you kindly , tell me the best position for a cyclamen? I bought a very sturdy specimen a while age* and have kept it in a room that has the morning sun and windoAV open all day, but it is sending out leaves and blooms with such long stalks that I was afraid I was weakening it, and I do so want to keep it. I have a verandah facing the sun and it has the ends closed in. 1 wondered if it would suit it better to be outside. Growing cyclamen in a room always has the effect of drawing both flower stems and leaf stalks up; it is the absence of top light that accounts for it. The sun porch, having more diffused light, would tend to minimise the trouble. You are not exactly weakening the plant; it is only growing under uncongenial circumstances. To get some pleasure out of your plant, however, you could bring it on to your table at various times, returning *it to the porch to maintain stocky growth and development. “ A.M.”, Richmond, states:—l have a tomato house, the ground of which is very sour. Would you advise me as to the best method of manuring same and also suitable manure for the plants?

Your best plan is to renew tlio soil in the house entirely. If it is just sour and not tomato sick you could Erne it heavily at once, hoeing the lime in. Next month, dig in bonedust at the rate of 3oz to the square yard, and, ten days before planting. Soz sulphate of potash per square yard. After the plants are growing and the first truss of flower is well exposed, give a mixture of 2oz superphosphate, loz sulphate of ammonia and &oz nitrate of potash per square yard. Repeat this at least twice during the growing season. You will notice I have followed the report of the Lancashire County Council Horticultural Instructor (with some modifications) as reported last week. You will do quite well to follow this, but it must be pointed out that experience alone teaches what each soil requires, and in a city like ours with such variations in so many different parts no two growers get the same results out of the same treatment. You must, however, prepare some soil this year to go into the house next season, or you will be inviting trouble. Procure some road parings and stack them up to mature, or work up a part of the garden and continually sow Cape barley, mustard, rape and lupins in it, systematicallv digging these in and sowing again until you have a soil witli plenty of humus. Thru the plants will make good root action and give you some return, as no plant will do well on artificial manures without decaying vegetative matter as well.