THE GARDEN

Star (Christchurch), Issue 18959, 3 January 1930, Page 13

THE GARDEN

NOTES FOR THE AMATEUR.

By

D. COMBRIDGE.

For the month of January it is to be expected that sunny days and more or less drying winds will prevail, making it very necessary to attend tc watering, tying up and hoeing, hence these things must receive our regular attention. The garden should be looking at its best both from a flowering point of view and also from the aspect of neatness and freedom from weeds. Dead and dying blooms should be removed to lengthen the flowering period of the plants and prevent them from bearing seed. In this connection roses need attention, especially some of the single and semi-double varieties. The removal of blooms, and often of the growths that have carried a cluster of flowers, is very profitable, as by cutting them off just above a leaf a growth is forced out that will produce some flowers in the autumn. Roses flower on new growth, and the encouragement of new wood during summer means autumn blooms. Summer pruning is not necessary in the sense that is practised by rose specialists, but the removal of flowering spikes as suggested above is amply repaid by well placed growths for later flowering. A most profitable procedure with the rose just now is a dusting of blood manure or blood and bone manure scattered on the ground, hoed in and well watered. This greatly improves the colour and substance of the flowers, besides improving the quality of the wood that will make the foundation of next season’s spring blooms. For an ordinary dwarf rose of one, two or three years’ planting, a heaped tablespoonful dusted round the plant is sufficient; older plants that have made more growth will benefit by a double dose or more as age and size are taken into consideration. It should be recognised, however, that generally speaking the active portions of the roots lie in a circle approximating to the spread of the branches rather than near the stem of the bush. The giving of any manure close to the stem of a plant will draw the feeding roots into that stem, ultimately making for a central mat of roots that will in time become unhealthy. Gladioli will need attention at this time of the year. The bloom spikes will be making their appearance, and provision must be made foi tying the spikes up, or they will be twisted and spoilt by wind and weather. Some varieties have very tall spikes, and allowance should be made for at Jeast oft above ground. If the bulbs have been planted in rows, light bamboo stakes will do admirably, provided they are tied to a wire strained between two stout posts, b for open ground work, between shrubs, or planted in clumps of three or more, a good stout stake that will not twirl in its hole when bearing its spike of bloom should be used. The bloom spike will need two or three ties over its whole length, or it will lDse its beauty and usefulness. Gladioli need a liberal supply of water from now on, and until the flowering period is finished. It is also imperative that the soil ; be well stirred, as the more cultivation of the surface soil the better the plants do. For manuring gladioli like finely powdered sheep manure laid round them or pointed into the soil and water ed in. It is reported that the applica tion of soot when plants are half grown intensifies the colour in deep shades, and that weak lime water applied shortly before bloom spikes open claries- morp dfiliVate shades. Mixed

fertiliser placed between the rows and raked in is always beneficial. After the buds begin to show colour, the application of nitrate of soda at the rate of ioz to one gallon everj r week or ten days will do good. However, the most important points to remember for successful culture are good soil, good and frequent cultivation and plenty of water during the growing and flowering period. After flowering, of course, watering should be slackened off considerably in order that the bulbs may ripen off correctly. Since aphis of all kinds are particularly bad this year everywhere, it is to bft expected that they will be found in the greenhouses and conservatory. Often in these places there are subjects on which it is not advisable to employ generally used sprays. For cases like this it is usual to fumigate. There are several fumigating controls on the market, the basic ingredient being usually tobacco extract. They are put up in forms to fumigate 1000 cubic feet and 2000 cubic feet. The cubic capacity of the house is easy to ascertain. It is found by multiplying the result by he average height. For example, given a house Sft long by 20ft wide and an average height of Sft, the cubic feet are:—Bo x 20 equals 1600 x 8 equals 12,800 cubic feet. For such a house fumers are used sufficient for 13,000 cubic feet. Directions for operating are given with every outfit. It is essential, however, that the foliage of the plants be perfectly dry, otherwise damage will be done. Night-time is ■ etter than daytime for the work, as there is less wind Evergreen hedges will need cutting back this month. Small-leaved plants such as privet and matipo, etc., can be done with hedge shears, but largeleaved plants such as laurel should be trimmed with the knife or secateurs; the shears would disfigure so many leaves, as well as causing many to turn brown. It is a splendid plan to taper the fence off towards the top, instead of making it square, as is so often seen. Do not overdo the taper effect, commence it about one-third from the top, or one-quarter of the height if the fence is very high, and make the top from twelve inches to eighteen inches narrower than its measurement at the point where the tapering commences. If it is desired to taper one side only, , halve those measurements. Straight stakes with binder twine stretched tightly between them will readily give the correct alignment, provided they are put in with proper care at the commencement. Pear Slug. During the early part of the month this destructive insect pest will be discovered on the leaves of the pear and cherry. Its life history is very simple, but during its activity its attacks on its host plants cause very serious loss. The moth that lays the eggs is on the wing during December. It measures only about one-fifth of an inch, and is black in colour. The eggs are laid from the underside of the leaves, and are inserted between the two epidermi of the leaf. The eggs hatch out in about two weeks, the young larvae being whitish in colour, and they emerge on to the tipper surface of the leaf, where they soon are covered with a black slime, which they retain until they are fully grown. They are swollen at the head and taper off at the tail, which gives them the appearance of tadpoles. The I slug moults five times, but at the fifth I

time it takes on a light orange colour, when it is not feeding, but it either crawls or falls to the ground, where it spins its cocoon in the soil at a depth of two or three inches. The larvae feed on the upper epidermis of the leaf, leaving the structure of veins and the lower skin, which turns brown and withers up. Trees are often so affected that they have the appearance of having been burned by fire. The result to the tree is that buds at the base of the tree never mature properl}*, and the trees becomes w*eaker, fruit is smaller and finally becomes unprofitable. The control is arsenate of lead, sprayed on as for codlin moth at the strength of one pound to thirty gallons, the object being to have a good coating of lead on the leaf for the slug to consume, and this quickly kills it. Hellebore powder is another splendid remedy when dusted on when leaves are damp or sprayed on at the rate of loz to three gallons. Black Deaf 40 is also found to be very efficient, used at the rate of one teaspoonful to one gallon of water, but soap or soap extract must be added to act as a spreader and to make the liquid stick. There are in some parts of the world as many as three broods, but here I do not consider we are subject to more than two. I have found a proper spraying during January keeps the trees perfectly clean. Answers To Correspondents. “ Bulbs ” —The tulip bulbs forwarded are attacked with a fungus disease known commonly as ** dry rot ” and its presence is apparent upon the foliage prior to the period of dying off. Re moval of infected bulbs as soon as seen is the surest method of control. The balance of the bulbs must be re-planted in an entirely fresh part of the garden for at least two seasons. Dust the bulbs with sulphur as soon as lifted, but do not lay them in the sun or blistering will follow the application of the sulphur. Dipping in a bluestone solution not stronger than 2ozs to the gallon would be beneficial at replanting time, immersing them for 15 to 20 minutes. Careful examination of the bulb prior to replanting may reveal the begining of the complaint. A shrivelling of the outer skin and a brown mark beneath, on the white flesh, are sure indications of fungus, which, if planted, will only infect healthy bulbs. The species of wire worm you allude to are not the primary cause of your loss; they were also present in the decaying portion of your gladiolus bulbs and are always more or less present in any soil containing humus, or decaying manure or vegetable matter. The gladiolus corm in the first place has not been planted deep enough and our severe frosts this spring have caused the damage apparent. You will notice the outer leave-s only are affected, and where growth has come from small new corms the leaves are badly spoiled as well as the two outer layers of the cormlets themselves. I can see no trace of disease in the main corm or anything on the soil detrimental to plant growth. There is a gladiolus disease, a fungus that attacks them after they have done flowering and it is apparent in the foliage prior to its natural decay, but this is too early in the year for it to be seen. Large bulbs as sample should go in at least six inches deep. “ F.T.M.”—It is difficult to account for the gooseberry not fruiting after testing it out for two or three years. If it is a seedling there is no reason why it should behave in this manner. If it is a strong grower pruning would, if done on the severe side, make it grow more, but since you have left it unpruned for more than one season on end it should have produced fruiting wood. The cause may He in the lack of a move; it may not be producing surface roots. If it is where it has alwavs been it may easily be the reason. Lift it this winter even if it is replanted in the same spot, shorten back the princi

pal growths a very little, any interlacing shoots remove, close up to the branch from when they emanate. It will be probably two seasons before you reap the benefit from this procedure. A new plant will also take two seasons before coming into bearing, and I therefore leave it to your judgment regarding purchasing new plants. Your acknowledgement of benefit from these notes is appreciated. So far nothing more ambitious than notes have occu pied my thoughts.