LADIES' COLUMN.

Star (Christchurch), Issue 4343, 25 March 1882, Page 4

LADIES' COLUMN.

PARIS FASHIONS FOR JANTJAEY.

(land ani Water.)

Simplicity, I am told — for I have not yet seen any signs of it — is to be tbe order of the day, this new year of 1882. Dresses are to be made with less trimming. At the bottom of the skirt there is only to be a large niching, or shell shaped peating, or a band of fur if the dress is of cloth.** Around the hips a straight scarf or panier folds, forming a large bow, and ends at the back, which complete the trimming for all kinds of drosses, whether for atreet or house wear, whether for morning or evening dress. In exchange for this simplicity of form, however, the materials of tho dresses

are aa rich as possible. I may Bay they are richer than ever. For the street, on the other hand, even the materials of the dresses must be quiet and without pretension. Dark«loth or black dresses are- the most in favour {or going out on foot. They are worn with the long pelisse, which haa now become universal and varies but in material, the form remaining the same for poor and rich. Young people wear jackets and coata of the same material aa the dress, and almost if not quite tight-fitting to the figure. Bottle-green and navy-blue are the most iv favour for these dresses. Green suits are generally trimmed with hussar braid ou skirt, body, and on tbe over- jacket, also of the hussar shape. Tbe navy-blue dress is mostly trimmed round with! fur, or is hot trimmed at all. In both cises, a cloth toque trimmed to match the costume . is worn, and a muff is also mode to match. I have seen a most charming costume in another'style for a young married lady. It was of seal-brown Indian cashmere, as soft as orape. At the bottom of the skirt were three ruchings of silk of the same colour. The body, pointed back and front, was crossed iv front by silk cords to match ; and the sleeves were laced tight to the arm with silk cord, also of the same colour a sealskin coat and a sealskin hat, with a humming-bird on one side ; muff to match the hat. Visiting dresses are made as short as walking dresses, and are made again of black silk, aa in days of yore. It is best made with the skirt trimmed with pleated flounces, and above, a tunic drawn up on one side and forming puff at the back. The body is made of the jacket form, with two rows of buttons down the front. The pelisse to be worn with it is also of black silk, and is lined and quilted with sarcenet, whilst a row of fur edges it all

round. As Boon as you sit down you let the pelisse drop from your Bhoulders, thus showing the entire dross beneath. These black silk dresses may also be trimmed with jet, when they at once become elegant. The jot capote, or black fluffy Rembrandt, covered with feathers, is the bonnet or hat for visiting dresses. There is also a new shaped hat called the " Catholic Bishop," which is of a clerical shape, and ia very becoming, especially to thoae of a sanctimonious appearance. Spanish dresses of black laco over black, pink, or yellow foundations are now reserved for dinner costumes. The foundation may be of silk, satin, watered silk, plush, or velvet. A ruching of the same material edges the bottom of the skirt, and the upper part is covered with lace flounces. A scarf or panier of lace heads the top flounce over the hips, and forms the bow and end drapery ab the back. Tha bo&y is full at the neck and waist, and a jet band is round the waist, A fringe of jet forms a collar round the neok, and has a ruohing at the top. The aleeves are puffed, with jet bands between the puffings.

Directoire costumes are also worn for dinner. They are made of two different colours and materials. For instance, an apron and revers of pale blue, with body and train of plum colour. The body is open, and laoed in front over a plastron to match the apron. Any material may be employed, and also any contrast of colours. A very pretty fashion for dancing parties is a white tulle skirt, covered with puffings and ruohings between the puffings, with the body and paniers of white velvet chiselled with coloured flowers, or coloured velvet ;'or satin bodies, with paniers, may be worn instead. The paniers terminate in bows, loops, or puffs, with ends at the back. The body is out very lew both in front and at the back, forming a heart on both sides. No laco or tucker is worn round the shoulders now. The Bleevea, however, are edged with deep lace, thus shading the upper part of the arm. A little crinoline is worn at the back of evening dresses, but it must be of the very slightest dimensions — the slightest exaggeration makes it insufferable. If, indeed, a dress is properly puffed at tho back no crinoline whatever is needed. The best kind of bussle is to flounce the upper part of the under skirt. If the baok breadth is thus flounced with very small box-pleated flounces, placed closely one over the other, and this back breadth is afterwards

drawn into the waist with pulley strings, the bussle is aohieved, and does not flap up and down when dancing, as separate bussles do, -while it looks more graceful.

" Anne of Austria " belts are made to be worn with pointed bodies. They are made of jet for black dresses, and of coloured stones and beads to imitate preoious stones for white ansl coloured dresses. White bugles are also used both for these belts and other trimmings for white dresses. A whito bugle apron front, under a plain white satin train, looks very lovely. White bugles are then embroidered round the whole edge of the train.

Altogether fashion remains as varied as ever. In the same room, for inatance, you will see short dresses to the ankles and long trains, also puffed paniers round 'the hipa and the princess sheath dress, crossed with a scarf, tied tightly round the hips, then a satin train open over an embroidered or brocaded apron, and coloured velvet or satin pointed bodies over flounced ekirtß of lighter .materials.

Here is a handsome black dress for a home •or family party. The skirt is of black silk, : and has a ruching of black watered silk at the bottom. Tho tunio ia of watered Bilk, and cut in four square pieces, edged round with jet fringe. The body of black silk, with collar and shoulder epaulette of watered silk, edged with jet fringe. A jet Anne of Austria belt,

Another handaomo evening dress is of black satin, made with a long train, open over a Turkish embroidered akirl, which embroidery ia repeated all round the body and traia. On each shoulder an epaulette of real roses, and a real rose in her hair.

Another is of pink watered silk, with Honiton flounces in front; a Jewess body, with lace sleeves, covering the upper part of the arm.

For a young girl I can recommend a white surah ; tho skirt a simple pleating, with two scarfs tied above the pleating ; a full body, with a ruching of forget-mo-nots round the neck; also an epaulette of forget-me-nots, and bracelets of forget-me-nots round the wrists, and a comb of forget-me-nots in the hair, and a bouquet of forget-mo-nots at tho waist in front.

Ladies who do not like to wear a long pelisse on all occasions may vary their shoulder coverings in tho following faahion for mild weather : — For inatance, thoy may wear a second jacket body over the dress, and of tho aamo material and colour as the dress. Thi3 over-body will be quito tight, and fastened in front with two rows of meful buttons. Only a littlo collar round tho neck. The edge of the basquo is merely hemmed, and the sleeves have no culls or

I'trimmingß whatever, and are juat «*ride I enough to be able to be slipped over the dress body without injury to either. This is very ; pretty and Bimple for a young girl, and if •wadded and quilted will be found to be warm enough for most weathers.

The other sty leia a mantle quite straight at the back, buUQtting closely to the waist, seams at the shoulder. The front tabs are long and wide. A large sailor- cellar, trimmed with ball) jet fringe, is round the waist, and the same fringe is repeated all round the -edge of the mantle. A bow of ribbon f alls from the back of the mantle, and gives it elegance. " What are the most fashionable colours t" lam noxt- as&ed. " The one which best suits your complexion, fair lady," I answer. For the brunette there is every shade of orange, from yellow to red. For fair complexions green, pink, and blue come to the fore, and make fairness look fairer still. There is thus no-reason for any lady to wear a colour that does not become her, since fashion is as generous as. nature herself in this respect, and offers a variety for every kind of beauty. Opera-cloaks are very rich. They^are of the pelisse-shape, in embroidered satin or soft coloured velvet, threaded with gold. They are lined with satin or fur, or swan's-down, which is the prettiest and softest of all.

White or yellow lace fichus or jabots are still worn for demi-toilette dresses, with a bunch of holly pinned in among the folds. Holly bringsigood luck, you know, -tmay even be worn in the atreet in a button-hole of the cloth jacket, or halt' hidden among the bowa of the. muff.

Muffs are made as much of dress materials aB of fur. You may make one of plush, lined with satin, and doubled with satin frills round each opening, in front a pretty little bird ; a cord run through the muff with the tassels falling on one side. Or you may make it of cloth or satin; the sides are then edged round with a wide band of fur or plush, and a plush fringe round the openings. A wide ribbon is strung through the opening, and is tied in a bow and ends at tbe top, to droop at the back of the neck. Another bow ia placed in the centre of the top of the muff. Some muffs have a bird of paradise in the centre.

Very elegant tea or luncheon dresses are made of bright coloured damask, open over white or cream coloured skirts, covered with lace ruffles and 'embroidery. Coloured cash-mere-dresses, open over white muslin flounced skirts, are equally elegant in a more modeßt way. The princess shape is still the most used, though some are frilled in at the back and front, like Mother- Hubbard dresses.

Feathers are still worn as much as ever. M. DB B.