Fashions Up-to-date.

Observer, Volume XXXV, Issue 44, 10 July 1915, Page 21

Fashions Up-to-date.

By Myba

THE short coat is triumphant everywhere, though, of course, we must have the full-length wraip for travelling, motoring, or evening wear. And the short coat is protean in its variety. It may be slit up at the sides; set into a shaped band, which holdis it away from the waist; it may button sedately up the front, or swing free to display an inner vest or dainty blouse.

Sleeves may come right down to the wrist, may stop midway past the elbow, or be absent altogether, for the sleeveless coat is quite a feature. There are most engaging coatee affairs of coloured taffeta, made for wear with white or flowered voiles and muslins, and many of these are without sleeves. Transparent lace sileejves are seen on dressy gowns.

To speak of full skirts conveys but a faint idea of the flat-pleated tail-or-mades, the rippling taffeta, the floating ninon ones. There are skirts which have fulness mainly at the back, others frankly gathered into the waist, and still' others set into plain hip yokes. This last, be it noted, is the mode for the woman who is not very slender.

Flounces three are bound with silk or scalloped and posed in tiers, and some skirts show widening circles joined to each other with a cording.

Two materials are very happily combined in a number of the new models, thus one Sees plain and check silk, as well as light woollens; plain and spot or stripe linens, ginghams and cambrics. Even the lingerie blouse, at its smartest, has often a fine line of colour edging frills, collar, and cuffs. Graduated croissbaiids of contrasting material are favoured as trimming, and the plain fabrics admirably set off the figured ones.

Peasant bodices,, borrowed from Sweden, Switzerland, and Montenegro, are charming with such details as laced' fronts, full white sleeves, and gathered blouses, tjofucheis qf gay embroidery, sjhoul-dar-straps, and; the like.

Trimmings for frocks and blouses are particularly fascinating and particularly cheap this winter. Very few other than hand embroideries are used l , and these are mostly in very simple forms that any home needle-woman can safely attempt. White collars' are hemstitched with silk to match the colour of the gown, or have a scalloped edge in white buttonholing, or a tiny motif embroidered in coloured silk at each corner. Vests are also adorned with simple hand stitcbery, and in this way the daintiest of trimmings may be 'contrived at the cost of a little ingenuity and a few skeins of silk.

"Belgium Net" is made a special feature in one at least of the Nottingham lace factories. It is 144 inches wide, of excellent quality, and is produced in beautiful colours. * .* *

A good imitation of Russian sable this season is called Kolinsky.

A smart trimming is made by velvet ear wings. Wings of all kinds are to be worn.

Lace insertions and edgings are seen in a new make which is in the style of Maltese. * * *

Some beautiful lace, manufactured in Nottingham, is made of linen

thread having a sheen like silk, and is being used: for fashionable scarves fancy work, trimming table linen, etc.

Coloured garbardines of the better quality are being much used for costumes.

In neckwear all-round high military collars and high backed collars are the leading characteristics.

A simple style of the white collar to wear with tailored 1 costumes is likely to become a great favourite.

Buttons play a conspicuous part just now, and may Ttfmp be chosen carelessly. The tailor-made should have boule buttons, covered to match, or olive-shaped ones, of passementerie, accord with serge gowns. Beautiful cut galalith simulates ivory and coral, steel facets flash in the sun, dyed' mother-o'-<pearl offers ravishing tints, and white or coloured crochet fashions charming ornaments for washing frocks and shirts.

Pockets are popular; tiny slits in little coats, and trouser pockets or capacious "patch" pockets on skirts. Some on country and sports oosh tumes are exactly like the expanding ones on the soldier's tunic.