NOTES OF A TRIP THROUGH THE CONTINENT.

Taranaki Herald, Volume LVIII, Issue 14345, 25 October 1910, Page 7

NOTES OF A TRIP THROUGH THE CONTINENT.

(By W.F.G.) We left Venice by gondola in the early morning for the railway station, en route for Innsbruck. 'lrains are changed at Verona, and the luggage examined by the Customs officials at Ala, on the Tyrolese frontier. We now run into quite a different country in every wav, passing Botzen, the I ons Drusi of the ancients, Brizon,and the Brenner Pass (the watershed), about 4500 feet high. The scenery, which is ever changing, is grand and romantic. The snow-covered Rhactian Alps in the distance, the pines, firs, larches, etc., in the immediate vicinity, the cascades in the ravines and the quaint villages make up scenes of great beauty, scenes that one would fain admire from both sides of the car at one time if it were possible, so a-s to lose nothing of the beautiful pictures of Nature presented on either side. The church spires are sometimes pointed, like those soon in England, and others domed like minarets of mosques, and many of the dwelling houses have the typical widcanglod roofs, which arc extended oyer the entrance and form verandahs like the Maori wharepunis have. On those flutish roofs there are great stones placed as a safeguard against high winds 1 Every landholder m the Tyrol owns a piece of land fit for cultivation in the valley, and his cattle and goats are driven to the mountain passes with his neighbours’. Companies of singers and musicians of both sexes, dressed in the picturesque costumes of their country, and who hail from the Zillor Valley, travel all over Germany, giving entertainments. They are export zither and guitar performers. The air was very keen at the highest point, and the guard informed us that a few days before there had been a heavy fall of snow that covered the rails, and the bolls of the village church were rung to call out the men to clear the line for traffic. Shortly after leaving Storzing the ;loscent is made to Innsbruck, and the air becomes much warmer.

Innsbruck, with the suburbs, lias a population of 50,000. The ancient name ivas Veldidena, and the present name is derived from the fact that the River Inn was spanned by a 'small bridge, where there was a market held in 1187. In the thirteenth century the Inn Valley was in the possession of the lords of Meran and the Tyrol. In 1863 tho last lord died without male issue, and his daughter, Margaret Maultasch, sold her inheritance to her cousin, Rudolph I\ ~ Duke of Austria. Therefore the Tyrol from that day has always been connected with the fortunes of the House, of Hapsburg. There are many places of interest to visit here. The Franziskancr Church, the Tyrolean Westminster Abbey, contains a splendid sarcophagus of the Emperor Maximilian, who was surnnmed “the last of the knights.’’ Ho is buried in the Church of the WicncrNeustadt. This monument is guarded on either side by twenty-eight large statues in bronze, said to be his immediate and remote ancestors from Clovis, King of the Franks, to Albert II Emperor in 1439. It. is a really splendid piece of work, and, strange to say, the name of tho artist seems to have been ■lost. The figures of tho kings and queens that have long since passed away have uplifted arms and curved fingers, which evidently wore intended to hold aloft funeral torches. Tho costumes of the figures are faithfully reproduced, and are of great value to artists and historians. To tho right is tho silver chapel, eo called from a statue of tho Madonna in silver. There is also the tomb of Ferdinand 11. and his consort, tho beautiful Philippine Welsor of Augsburg. There is an excellent museum in tho city, and the most spacious street is tho Maria Therosion Strassc. Tho oldest house is the OUnburg, built in 1234 by Duke Otto I. of Mernn. Opposite the Ottohnrg is tho oldest hotel, the Goldener Adler (Golden Eagle), frequented in days gone by many famous men; The Emperor Joseph tl., King Louis of Havana, Andreas Hofor, Heinrich Heine, Goethe, and others. Tho University has a most interesting botanical, garden, which contains tho whole flora of tho Tyrolean Alps. There is a very interesting object near the city tower called the Goldono ' Dachl (golden roof). It is a large balconv with n bronze roof coated.with gold. Tradition says it was built by Frederick “of the empty purse;” others say it was the work of tho Emperor Maximilian. The date is 1500. A very notable place is tho Borg Isof, famed in tho story of the Tyrolean struggles for freedom. It was from tide elevated position that Andreas Hofor directed his battles against the allied armies of the Emperor. Tho Berg Isei lies above the old village of Wilton, and on its summit is tho Hofer SlonumenL the Military Rifle Range, and tho Kaiserjagcr Museum. Berg Isel is really a spur of a mountain range, and a very fine view of the beautiful city and snow-clad mountains can be got from there. In the museum arc very interesting portraits of the Tyrolese patriots. No trouble ha.s been spared in procuring these portraits, and a scries of biographies have lieen compiled for a “book of honour.” 'Tho museum also contains a collection of old muskets, uniforms, medals, etc., of great interest, especially, to the antiquarian, ns they show the various changes that have taken place since those days. There is a splendid bust of Andreas Hofer, surrounded by beautiful wreaths tied with silk ribbons of the Tyrolese national colours. Tho, Hofor Monument stands on the spot whore on more than one occasion the fight was directed by the “Man of Tyrol.” It is of bronze, on a stone pedestal, and represents him pointing as if giving orders; with the left hand he holds tho banner of the Tyrol. The figure is dressed in the costume of the Pussier Valley. The statue, is the work of Heinrich Natter, and is flanked by two eagles; on tho plinth is a bronze tablet with a wreath of oak leaves and trophies of war,_ with the inscription, “Fur Gott, Tvaiscr, und Vatcrland.” Last year was the Hofer centenary when Innsbruck was on fete. There are all sorts of useful articles and knickknacks for sale that bear his portrait. Hie paper serviettes in the hotels, etc., were stamped with his likeness, surf rounded hy oaken and laurel wreaths and post cards were sold by the thousand.' Thirty years ago, 'in the old Wanganui Rifles’ Band, we used to roll out Jus grand old niarch on parade, and I have had the privilege of visiting his monument on the Berg Isel at Innsbruck, the capital of the Tyrol. The following linos are from M. L. Garreaud’s biography of the Patriot, and very likely will he read with interest by many of your readers:—“Andreas Hofer, tho hero of the Tyroleans, who united in his character tho two national traits, fidelity to God and to his Sovereign, was born in tho Passeyer ynlley in 1765. His family kept the inn at Sandyland, near the Passer Stream, hence his frequently being called in history tho Sandy landlord. He was living at the inn, following the calling of his fathers, when, by tho treaty of Proshury, the Tyrol was wrested from Austria and ceded to Bavaria, tho ally of Napoleon. At this

terrible nows Andreas made a vow never again to shave his beard. During tho wars his long heard falling on his breast gave him, with the Italians, the name of General Baritone.. Tho picture scon at Innsbruck represents Hofor as a typo of that race from Passeyor, reputed tho handsomest and most vigorous in tho Tyrol. An' athletic, wellknit frame, broad shoulders, a round, highly - coloured countenance, black eyes, largo, brilliant, and penetrating, a majestic beard, tho whole breathing command, inspiring respect, and attracting confidence. Indignant a.t the double dealing of the Bavarian officials, exasperated at the persecution which menaced tho treasure of the true faith, Andreas had but one thought—to liberate his country from tho foreign yoke and restore it to tho Emperor. With this end in view he commenced a correspondence with the Archduke John. On January 16, 1809, ho went to Vienna, with other follow countrymen, and had several interviews with the Prince, in which the plan of deliverance was definitely settled. When all was ready Andreas returned to St. Xjeonard, invested with full power as ‘‘commander-in-chief of the national forces. On tho night of April 10, 1809, his supporters woro called to arms by groat fires blazing on tho heights; and on April 11, at the head of 4500 men, who had all confessed and communicated, tho ‘Sandy landlord’ bravely attacked tho Bavarians and completely routed them. The next morning 15,000 peasants surrounded Innsbruck, carried the bridge and heights by assault, the town, and, after a hand to hand fight, forced General Bisson, Commandant of the French and Bavarian troops, to Capitulate. After a deal of fighting, in which tho Tirol was a second time freed by her own children, Andrews was accompanied by his faithful friends, Speckbacher his lieutenant, called by the Bavarians the ‘fire devil,’ and the famous Capuchin Haspinger, nicknamed tho ‘red board.’ On July 0 Austria, vanquished at Wigram, was forced to the armistice of Znaim, and in that convention Tirol was ignored. Hofor swore he would once more conquer or die. The day of attack was fixed at sin the morning. Haspinger celebrated Mass, before tho assembled army. Then the priest became captain, sprang into the saddle, drew his sword, and precipitated himself on tho enemy’s right flank, while Speckhaohor threw himself on the left. Andreas Hofer led tho attack in the centre, and marched straight to Innsbruck. In tho battle field Andreas seemed transfigured; tho mild expression changed to a terrible one; he looked grand on his punting steed; his long heard floating in the wind, electrifying his troops with the battle cry, ‘Onward for your country and your Emperor I God protects tho right.’ Before this irrisistiblc attack tho soldiers of Marshall Be Fobre again gave way. This last triumph is said to baffle all description. Tho triumph was shortlived. Tho peace of Vienna forced Austria to renounce tho Tirol. The Archduke John himself wrote to Hofer ajui ordered him to lay down his arms. Hofer did not obey this mandate, and believed tho treaty of Vienna was a myth. But tho soldiers ■ woro discouraged. Speckbacher, after unheard of difficulties, took refuge in Vienna. Haspinger joined him there, and was made curate of Heitzriug, near Schooubrnnn. When Hofer saw all was lost ho dispersed his handful of soldiers remaining to him. and his parting words woro; “Wo snail meet soon, my friends, for tho Tirol will not perish.” A price was put on his head, and a wretch named Baffl betrayed His retreat, in which ho had been living some months with his family. Guided by tho traitor, some Italian gendarmes, followed by French soldiers, found their way to a chalet in the mountains and secured tho hero, already broken down by grief and privation. Ho was escorted to Mantua, where ho was tried by court-martial under General Bisson and condemned to death. Ho took leave, of his companions in arms, and wound nip with these words: “Farewell, most despicable world. For a bravo man, death is of such small account that in leaving you I have not one tear of regret.” On February 20, 1810, at eleven in tho morning, tho platoon came to escort tho condemned man to tho citadel. A certain number of prisoners, brothers in arms, awaited him in the courtyard. At their request he gave them a blessing.. The platoon stopped near the Corcsa gate. Andreas refused to have his eyes bandaged, neither would ho kneel down. He gave his last piece of money to the corporal. “Aim straight,” ho told him; then facing the platoon ho gave the order, “Fire!” And tho martyr fell dead. By his wish ho was buried in the garden of his friend and confessor Manifest!. Fifteen years later three officers of tho Tiroloso Chasseurs exhumed his remains at night and conveyed thorn to Bozen. Thence they were removed to the convent at Wilton. At last the day arrived when ho had a funeral worthy of his heroism. Deputations flocked from all parts of tho country to accompany what was once Andreas Hofer to the Church of tho Franciscans at Innsbruck, whore his dust remains undisturbed. Twelve innkeepers bore tho coffin, surmounted by tho hat, sword i/nd decorations of tho hero, as well as his armorial bearings; for tho Emperor, to honour the memory of the great patriot, had conferred on his family letters of nobility. In this thnrch the Tiroloan sculptor cut his lornb out of the marble of his native land. To tho loft of tho entrance stands the monument erected in 1831 by Schnller, of Vienna, to his memory. A beautiful high relief in marble, by Joseph Kliehor, of Innsbruck, commemorates the “Oath of the Banners.” This is flanked by tho tombs of his brothers in arms, ' Speckbacher and Haspinger. The river Inn at Innsbruck runs over a shingly bottom, and is very much like tho Waiwakaiho at Fitzroy. A cogwheel railway crosses it at Hungerberg to an elevation of 820 foot, from whore there is a magnificent view of the little city and its green meadows surotmded by snow-covered Sierras. A really super!) sight. Innsbruck, like Colombo, Egypt and Venice, affected me in a way 1 can hardly describe. 1 felt as if I were taking in the essence of a new life; all was so new, bright and picturesque, like a glimpse into a paradise.