HIMALAYAN CLIMBERS

Taranaki Daily News, 26 August 1930, Page 7

HIMALAYAN CLIMBERS

RETURN TO CIVILISATION ICY WASTES TO TROPIC HEAT. FAREWELL ACHIEVEMENT. The following despatch from the special correspondent with the Kanchcnjunga Expedition records , the ascent of another peak by the two members of the party who were the first to reach the -summit of Jonsong Peak, 24,340 ft., on June 3.

Here in Calcutta on my homeward journey news reaches me that Herr Hoerlin and Herr Schneider ascended Dodang Peak, 22,700ft'.,' the highest point of the Dodang Nyima Range, separating the Lhdnak Valley in Sikkim from Tibet. They first traversed the Dodang Nyima pass to the Tibetan frontier, thence attacking the peak from the north-east. Extreme difficulties, were

met in overcoming the icefall, where so much step-cutting was necessary in ’i the exceptionally tough ice that they returned with their ice axes and picks bent round. The knife-like ridge was followed to the summit. • The climb took so long that they narrowly escaped being, benighted and returned late to camp after one of the, hardest days in their

lives. ' . - ; - ’ It is probable-that the monsoon has by this timer greatly rest«cted' the party’s and • that ' they are well on their way ,to Darjeeling. The first party returned in nine marches to Gangtok,’and'thence travelled by-motor-car to Darjeeling.. Almost ‘ every variety of scenery and climate was encountered on this route.

THROUGH RHODODENDRON LAND

After weeks passed among the eternal snows it was a relief to leave' the,bate camp and stroll’over the gentle upland grass slopes of theLhonak Valley. Yaks graze hereabouts/ and some of these animals were used ‘in carrying • loads. The eeenery was reminiscent of “The Coolins,” tlie red hills, of Skye, where the valley .is bounded by grassy ■ hills covered in reddish scree, .but. with .views' of majestic peaks up on the. unknown side. ..These valleys remind the traveller that he is indeed in the Himalaya and not in a Highland’glen. ‘h. We passed the first night on a breezy pasture, with the sound of yak-bells in our ears. Two marches brought us intd. the monsoon area, but the moist air and. warm rain came as a relief after the bodily and facial, desiccation we had suffered in the arid air of the high. Himalaya, and our countenance, formerly grievous? ruino, responded gratefully. .. ''‘ 7 Two marches also saw us into rhododendron land where the hillsides-were a riot of colour with red, swhite and yellow dwarf and giant rhododendrons.' The air was permeated with their sweet’ scents/ . . •■ Gradually the. valley narrowed and the vegetation became* more tropical and profuse." The ’snow line wae lower than, that of the upper Lhonak Valley and spoke" of “ a greater’ rainfall than oh the dry.; border, of Tibet, while the' dissolving debrifl of' the huge snow avalanchefl encumbered the floor of the valley. • • . • LONELY ‘ MISSIONARIES. ; - Above Zemu Glen the valley was gorge-like. Fortunately; Lachen men had cut a way through the snake-like tangle of the giant rhododendrons and made a bridge over the torrent. The bridge, which cost only 22a Cd, proved remarkably efficient.. Logs and branches tied together with ropes of yak hair were the materials of which it was made. . ■ -Soon we were marching through dim forest’aisles 'with the familiar whirr of a my'rjad inflects and the clatter of innumerable froga in our ears. Above us the sullen grey shawls of the monsoon clouds sagged ever lower, obscuring the view we hoped to get of Siniolchu, one of the world's most superb peaks. . At Lachen we were hospitably greeted by the two women missionaries who bravely endure the -loneliness of this outpost 'of civilisation. One of them has worked here for 30 years. Balancing' tea cups was almost a lost art to us,- and in view of our unshaven condition it would be hard to imagine a more desperate-looking' set of ruffians at a tea party. ' . “■ . ■ From Lachen to Gangtok we slept in; excellent dak bungalows, travelling dur.inw the’ day on lackadaisical. /Bhotia ponies. We gradually . descended into the heart of a tropical jungle, and daily the heat increased,- reaching its maximum at fever-ridden Dikchu, where we reluctantly spent a night. . A CHANGE OF DIET. Teesta malaria is reputed to be th# worst, in the world/and at Dikchu we were severely bitten by mosquitos, fortunately without ill-result.. Near Gangtok we were met by ponies, kindly sent by the Maharajah of Sik-kim. Arrived at Gangtok, we found that provisions had been sent by the Maharajah and Mr. Dudley, his general secretary. In a few minutes- we were, once more eating bread, feasting off a variety of excellent foodstufffl, and drinking our first whisky for three months. On the fol-' lowinw day the Maharajah and the Maharani entertained the expedition at dinner. Our stay in Gangtok and the hospitality accorded us there will always remain one of the expedition’s most delightful memories. Gangtok Is, in situation, similar to Darjeeling; Eng-' lish apples and other fruit grow there aide by side with tropical orchids and fruits. -• ■ ■ ■ ' '

Thus we were off on the last stage of our journey, at . first on ponies, the motor road being impassable owing to wash-outs, and from Singtam in Austin Sevens. Once more at Darjeeling we were greeted most 'hospitably and entertained at -luncheon by the Sov-’ emor.

Our last memory of the Himalaya was of a beautiful motor-car drive from Darjeeling to Siliguri on our way to Calcutta. Behind us, a« we hummed along the flat plain near Siliguri, with the jungle on either hand bursting into the. evensong of night birds, animals and insects, dense cumulus -were piled Cp in the heavens,-silhouetted sharply in domes, turrets, peaks and spires against a shy daffodil yellow. -Their summits >were- tinged with copper and their bases were in the deepest shadow., Jii 'tlie half light they appeared as eternal as the great -mountain , rangp on .jr&ich t-hey' we re resting,, .the .mountain rann-A ‘to which some of. us, -at least,'

will return again and again as long as muscle and will' respond to the irresistible lure that drag® man-from civil-' -isation to -the remote' corners of 'thd earth. ' . . ~; . - _