“SUN” SERVICE STATION

Sun (Auckland), Volume II, Issue 522, 27 November 1928, Page 6

“SUN” SERVICE STATION

rpHE “Motordom” section of The Sun includes in its service to readers a Queries and Answers Department, the object of which is to give accurate information regarding mechanical and touring subjects. Whatever the particular puzzle may be in either diagnosing irritating troubles, or motoring Information of any kind, ‘‘Headlight** will endeavour to help, <pr refer the point to men who are recognised automobile experts in their respective lines. All communications must be accompanied by the Inquirer's name and address (not for publication), and sent to THE SUN “Service Station. Motordom.” THE SUN. Auckland. Answers will appear weekly in this column.

E.R. —Could you let me know through your columns the best method of scouring a Ford radiator. There seems to be a greasy rust at the pet-cock, which a wire doesn’t seem to shift. It would be a good idea to flush the cooling system several times with hot soapy water. L.R.W.—I would like some advice as to what to do in the case of a faulty brake. The brake on the right-hand back wheel of my car will not operate

' properly. I have looked at the shoes on both sides and the linings are quite all right, but the left-hand one grips first on all settings. I have altered the adjustment, so the right-hand brake should grip first, but even then it is not very good. There are several possible causes for the faulty action of your brake. Most likely the shoes have some oil or grease in them which has leaked through along the axle from the differential. If there is, burn it out with a blow-lamp, or wash it out with kerosene and a wire brush. Put a new washer on the end of the axle if oil is coming through. If this is 0.K., sec if the brake rods and shafts are all straight. If one is bent, it wilLnaturally alter the operation, because it may jab in a carrier. Oil all the joints and levers. They may be stiff with dirt and rust. See that any nuts holding the cross-shaft or main rods are not loose, as they may wobble under the strain of the brake and take the force the shoes should get. If the brakes are operated by cables instead of rods, one cable may have stretched more than the other. F.A.—l have a 1924 Morris-Cowley, and would like some advice about my clutch. When starting, and I push out my clutch pedal, it will not disengage and go into gear unless I rev. the engine up. I put in new cork plates, and it made no improvement. The trouble is probably due to the oil being heavy, and suggest a lighter oil b© used. At the foot of the clutch pedal there are two screws for adjustment of its angle to give it a smaller or greater throw. I suggest the adjustment be tried a turn at a time in each screw, slackening one back and the other forward, until correctly adjusted. F.B.D.—On my 1928 model Singer Senior car. water continually leaks from the join where the carburettor is bolted to the engine block. New gaskets have been tried, and the bolts tightened, but the trouble has not abated. Would you kindly infrom me through the “S.S.S.” what it is that causes this trouble, and how it may be remedied. Petrol consumption is very high and pulling power is much below normal. The cause of your trouble is the seepage of water past the thread of the studs holding carburettor to manifold. Drain radiator, unscrew studs, dip thread in gasket cement or enamel paint and replace. We would advise warming up the engine before refilling radiator to allow the cement to harden. Lack of normal power and unsatisfactory petrol consumption are due to incorrect carburettor setting. Advise using 20 choke and 95 main jet. These can be obtained from the agents of the car or carburettor.