WORK IN THE GARDEN

Southland Times, Issue 24114, 1 May 1940, Page 12

WORK IN THE GARDEN

By

BRENDAN P. MANSFIELD,

F. Inst. PA,

THE COOL GLASSHOUSE Flowering plants require a dry atmosphere; the ventilators should be open at the top, but keep artificial heat going to counteract dampness. Many flowering plants are rapidly forced out of flowering through uncongenial conditions; principally overheating and over-watering. Plants such as primulas, cyclamen, cinerarias and carnations will not tolerate a close stuffy house. Calceolarias and schizanthus should now be in small pots and grown on slowly and coolly. These, and pelargoniums, resent closeness or stuffy conditions more than any other plants. Now that the days are shorter and the penetration of light weaker it is important that shading on houses be reduced or removed; for at this season light is most important in regulating growth, making plants short jointed | and stocky. Wash down all wood-work with soapy water to which a little insecticide has been added, being careful to cleanse thoroughly every chink, crevice and pane of glass. During winter feeding and watering must be carefully regulated; never give plants artificial food when they are in flower and, at that period, reduce water to a minimum. To hold chrysanthemums in flower and at their best for as long a period as possible stop feeding, withhold water and afford cool conditions with free circulation of air day and night. THE FLOWER GARDEN While still a little early for general planting remember plants set out in their permanent positions early have an opportunity to make a little root growth and become partially established before winter sets in and the soil becomes chilled. In this way newly-planted specimens are afforded a good start and losses rarely, if ever, occur. Planting in the depth of winter, when dormant, is not recommended in this district though, where large-scale operations have to be carried out, it may be necessary. The best results are obtained from bush roses which are planted early. They should never be planted in the depth of winter and, remember, the manner of planting is all important to theix - subsequent growth. Both tops and roots should be pruned at time of planting. In the hardy flower border perennials and annuals, now past flowering, will require to be pulled out or have dead shoots removed. Rubbish and litter must be kept cleared for it serves as a harbour for pests. Autumn planting for spring display should be proceeded with promptly and completed as soon as possible, the planting of bulbs in particular must not be delayed further. The principal kinds of bulbs which should always be planted in bold groups are' hyacinths, tulips, daffodils, grape hyacinths, Spanish iris, crocus, winter aconites and snowdrops. Anenomes and ranunculas I do not recommend for planting straight into the ground, but consider they do best if set out in boxes and planted, later, in the open ground as green plants. If planting direct into the open ground anemones and ranunculas should be spaced not more than six inches apart and at a depth of two to three inches, according to the nature of the soil; a lesser depth in a heavy soil and a greater depth in a light one. Ranunculas will be excited into growth much more quickly if the bulbs are soaked in tepid water overnight before planting. For bordering or edging polyanthus, pansies, double daisies, aubretias and arabis are all suitable and may be planted now. For bedding display plant wallflowers, forget-me-not (myosotis), East Lothian stocks, Iceland poppies, Sweet William and Canterbury bells.

After early frosts have rung down the final curtain on late autumn display dahlias may be cut over and the tubers lifted, dried and then stored in a cool, airy shed or under the bench in a cold glasshouse. Where the varieties are grown to name be careful that the label is securely attached at the base of the old stalk and abutting on to the tubers. The lifting of gladioli corms may also require to be done. They should be placed in boxes with a little soil, otherwise the increase, cormlets, will be lost. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN The digging over of land or ground from which vegetables have been removed must be proceeded with immediately, for the longer it is left turned over in a rough state the better;

the action of air, wind, rain, frost, snow and other agencies are all beneficial. Where available a heavy dressing of dung should be dug into the ground in autumn. Remember, seaweed is equally valuable; in fact, in many countries with an extensive sea-board it is very generally used and is quite as valuable as farmyard manure, subject to superphosphate at the rate of two ounces to each harrow load being added.

Where manure or seaweed are not obtainable in quantity much garden refuse can be converted into a good form; that is, old clods of grass, lawn mowings, peelings from the house, leaves, the outer leaves of greens and other waste matter, but not the woody parts of plants. Ground in which potatoes have been grown that were infested with wire worm should be treated with naphthalene, and powdered naphthalene may be dusted through potato tubers in store if they are pierced by wire worms. This powder will certainly give off a pungent odour but then, we rarely, if ever, eat the potatoes raw and there is no taint when the skins have been removed and the tubers cooked. Trenching of ground should be carried out wherever and whenever possible. The whole garden cannot be done each year, but a portion of it should certainly be done. There is all the difference in yield between a piece of ground dug and a piece of ground trenched as there is between a piece of land cultivated under garden or under farm conditions. The eax-thing up of celery and leeks must be completed by the drawing up of soil about the stems. Protect celery during severe weather with loose litter which, if fine, may be drawn away from the plants during the day. Where vegetables are lifted and stored they must be checked over each week, removing any showing signs of decay. In lifting it is rare to find anyone that exercises sufficient care for tubers and bulbs, even roots, are susceptible to shock and may quickly bruise, such bruised portions being points where decay commences. Vegetables, like fruits, are highly sensitive to touch and show it by bruises or blemishes on the skin and impaired keeping quality. The planting of herbs; that is, mainly thyme, mint, sage and marjoram, should be attended to at this season. Liberal supplies of Parsley are obtained by sowing a little each autumn and spring. Chives should now be lifted, divided, the tops and roots cut back severely and then replanted. Shallots and garlic can also be planted this month. Keep the hoe or Canterbury rake constantly worked between rows of vegetables so that no crust or scum is allowed to form on the surface. By this means, too, weed growth is suppressed, air admitted and penetration of light made possible, which is. reflected in a quickening of root activity I encouraged by sustained or improved soil temperature. THE FRUIT GARDEN The best results are obtained by planting as soon as possible after the leaves have fallen. Plant securely, not too deeply, give a thorough soaking with watei’ and see every plant is carefully staked immediately after planting. The ground in which fruit trees are to be planted should be most carefully prepared, being deeply dug and enriched with dung or garden compost. Trees which have made growth disproportionate with their age and, at the expense of fruiting, should now be root pruned but, when large specimens are being so treated, it is suggested only one side of the tree be done this year, the other side being done next year. Lift and burn old tomato stalks. They should never be allowed to rot in the ground. If grown indoors remove all other living things from the house which should then be closed tightly and sulphur burned in it. This will kill plants, pests and weeds; there will then be no stain from the tomato stems when they are being removed. A dry atmosphere is required in the vinery to control mildew and this is best brought about by top ventilation and bottom heat. Go over the bunches of grapes with a scissors, cutting out any berries showing signs of decay and then blow sulphur very lightly through the bunches.

Cuttings of gooseberries and currants prepared from the ripened wood of vigorous and healthy trees may be inserted in the open ground to produce young plants for next season. Any raspberries, unpruned, should receive immediate attention, reducing the canes to five and then tying them up to stakes as before.