WORK IN THE GARDEN

Southland Times, Issue 24004, 20 December 1939, Page 12

WORK IN THE GARDEN

By

BRENDAN P. MANSFIELD,

F. Inst P.A.

THE COOL GLASSHOUSE An ideal gift for a gardening friend is a flowering or foliage plant for a conservatory, hall or room. Small ornamental shrubs in tubs are specially suited for verandas as also are pendulous plants growing in hanging baskets. The care of plants indoors is really very simple, provided the room is not over-heated and they are not subjected to intense light no difficulty need be experienced. Watering is governed by temperature and vigour of the specimen; no hard and fast rule applies. Intermediate and late batches of tuberous begonias must be advanced to larger pots. Aid in support for plants commencing flowering will be required. Use slender stakes and place a wad of cotton wool between the stem and the Seed of cinerarias and primulas for winter flowering should now be sown. When germination is effected the seedlings are best lined out in boxes, and later advanced to small pots. THE FLOWER GARDEN In the foreword to a popular catalogue Mr Beverley Nichols says ‘. . . if, however, you are an immoral person like myself who feels that in these crazy days, money spent on flowers is money spent on sanity and peace, then you will go the whole hog.” Complete planting of seasonal bedding plants for summer and autumn display. Gaps in hardy flower borders may be filled with late flowering plants such as African marigolds, dwarf French marigolds, portulaca, verbenas, phlox drummondii, antirrhinums, petunias, larkspurs. Attention to staking and tying will be necessary and the further thinning of weak and over-crowded shoots _ in clumps of Michaelmas daisies, heleniums, rudbeckias, early-flowering chrysanthemums, and so on, is advised. Plants now advancing to flowering stage will derive considerable benefit from the regular application of weak liquid manure at intervals of 10 to 14 days. M , The removal of spent blooms is an operation often neglected by amateurs and while it is equally important for all plants it is especially desirable in the case of rhododendrons and roses. . For the conservation of moisture, aeration and suppression of weeds, regular hoeing is essential. Weeds cleared by hoeing , must be removed from the ground, otherwise they have a tendency to spring into fresh growth. Dahlias will be making strong, rapid, S'h. The shoots are usually very and if not looped to stout stakes much damage may result from a sudden squall. Large flowering varieties must be dis-budded; that is, the small buds in either side of the terminal are to be removed. Miniature - decorative or charm dahlias need not be dis-budded unless flowers are required for exhibition purposes. Lawn mowings should be utilized for mulching but must not be applied in a heavy layer; just sufficient to cover the brown of earth is enough and they soon dry, turning to an earth-brown colour. Not only are they of manurial value but conserve moisture, suppress weed growth and check diseases which arise from the soil.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN More sowings of rapidly maturing vegetables, especially salading plants, may be made at will. Before sowing green peas soak the seed over-night in water. . Green peas developing pods will be assisted by the application of nitrate of soda at the rate of one ounce to each gallon of water. A mulch with lawn mowings-is also very beneficial. To prevent the tops, or shoulders, of carrots becoming dry and green place a layer of leaf mould, one inch deep, along the rows; it must first be passed through a sieve of half inch mesh. Attention in the moulding up of potatoes will be necessary; here again lawn mowings are an advantage and a light dusting with potato fertilizer. To prevent possible attack by disease spraying with Bordeaux mixture is advised. There should be no vacant space in thq vegetable garden; as crops are cleared winter greens should be planted. These include:—Brussels sprouts, curly kale, savoys, silver beet, spinach, Broccoli and cabbage. An interesting reader has mentioned that the tops of broad beans may be cooked as a substitute for cabbage, and radish tops, when cooked, form a good substitute for spinach. These hints may prove useful to other readers. Another regular reader’ has kindly forwarded the following remedy for attack by > white butterflies:—One small bottle of castor oil, Jib chillies. Boil iIV a kerosene tin of water until the chillies form a mash; when cool sprinkle on the cabbages. In the control of white butterflies derris dust is the standard remedy, while for slugs we recommend Meta tablets and bran. One Meta tablet to hald a pound of bran is sufficient. A feature of this remedy is that its killing properties are not lost after rain. THE FRUIT GARDEN

In the control of mildew vines may be dusted with green sulphur. Moist and changeable conditions are conducive to the spread of this disease.

The berries on bunches of young grapes swell very rapidly at this season. Attention to the thinning of inside fruits is essential, and at regular intervals. Protect young developing strawberries overhead with netting and place loose litter about the plants. Thinning of fruits should be begun when they are about half an inch in diameter, earlier varieties having attention first. Bordeaux mixture is recommended in the control of peach leaf curl, which is now very prevalent. Biting insects are best controlled with lead arsenate, using one ounce to each gallon of water. CENTENNIAL FLOWER SHOW The attention of horticulturists is directed to the Centennial National Flower Show to be held on January 30 and 31 in the Assembly Hall, Exhibition Building, Rongotai, Wellington. It is considered that the organization and efforts being made by the executive will result in the largest and most representative show yet held in the Dominion and one worthy of the centennial. Exhibits are being forwarded from all parts of the Dominion and a special feature will be the comprehensive horticultural displays staged on a space not exceeding 120 square feet; this competition is open to provinces, districts, societies, clubs, circles, institutes, associations or individuals, and may include only flowers, plants, fruit, vegetables, seeds and uncooked and unpreserved bush or garden products. This great flower show, which may be regarded as the Chelsea Show of the Dominion, is being conducted under the auspices of the Royal New Zealand Institute of Horticulture, Wellington Horticultural Society, Hutt Valley Horticultural Society, Association of Directors of Parks and Reserves, New Zealand Florists’ Telegraph Exchange, Horticultural Seedsmen’s Association of New Zealand, and is directed by New Zealand’s foremost amateur horticulturist, Mrs Knox Gilmour, who has been elected president. We suggest that horticulturists and others interested who may be making Wellington the venue of their holiday this year should endeavour to make the trip at the time of this great show and, should there be anyone in the district interested in exhibiting, full particulars and a copy of the schedule may be obtained, direct, from the show secretary, Mr A. J. Nicholls, P.O. Box 1072, Wellington. EARLY PERENNIALS During summer may not seem to be an ideal time in which to propagate perennials and rock plants, and it would certainly be folly to transplant at this season plants that are just coming into flower, but in the case of those which have already bloomed it is rather a different matter, says. The Australian Garden Lover. Polyanthus and primroses have by this- time completed their first growth, and are now resting for a while before growth begins again. They may" be lifted and divided now, provided they are replanted at once without exposing the roots unnecessarily to the sun and watered thoroughly for a week or two after replanting. The saxifrages can also be divided with safety. Large old clumps often turn brown in the centre, and die away especially if they happen to be growing in a sunny, dry place. Timely division will prevent this, and will enable a supply to be kept up of those close hammocky plants that are such a delight, even when they are not producing any flowers. All the subjects mentioned will do better if, after division, they can be planted temporarily in a shady border. For preference this should .be chosen close to a wall or fence with a southerly aspect, and not under trees; but if there is no alternative to planting under trees, special care should be taken to water the plants thoroughly. It is surprising how the trees fill the soil with roots, and extract every particle of moisture. A little leafmould or peat worked into the soil will help the plants considerably, COMPOST HEAPS When various kinds of earth are mixed together they are said to be composted. In like manner the term is also used to denote mixtures of earth, vegetable matter—such as manure, moss, and so on—and mineral matter —such as nodules of freestone, limestone, and other porous stones. In outdoor gardens, prunings, weeds, leaves, straw, vegetable refuse of all kinds, and waste animal matters are mixed with earth, in a convenient spot generally enclosed or cut off by screens from thb more ornamental parts of the grounds. The heaps so formed are trimmed up occasionally to keep them tidy and neat, and wetted during dry weather to hasten decay. The heaps are allowed to remain till the mass has subsided and much of it decayed, when it may be turned over with a fork and spade, separating the short from'the long; the latter to be added to a new heap to undergo further decomposition and decay. It is surprising at first how quickly compost heaps swell to considerable dimensions, and how soon they provide a suitable means of enrichment.