WORK IN THE GARDEN

Southland Times, Issue 23922, 14 September 1939, Page 16

WORK IN THE GARDEN

By

BRENDAN P. MANSFIELD, F. Inst. P.A.

THE COOL GLASSHOUSE Fibrous turfy loam is the basis of any compost for flowering or foliage pot plants. Subject to a good compost being provided, well built up with nourishing ingredients, there is no need to doubt subsequent development. Pots in which flowering or foliage plants are grown must always be clean, otherwise a condition of stagnation will be caused which results in soil sickness. As spring approaches there comes an awakening of pests and diseases. Frequent, regular, fumigation is recommended in small houses, or where only a few plants are effected, they may be dipped in a nicotine solution. Soap is injurious to plants and fouls the surface so when a soap solution is used the pots must be laid on their sides until the excess moisture is drained off. It is a common, but injurious, practice to stand foliage plants outside in misty rain. Sponge the leaves with a solution of tepid soapy water. THE FLOWER GARDEN Many are prompted by mild conditions to set early-grown bedding plants outdoors in their permanent flowering quarters, but it is yet much too early. We do not recommend planting material of this nature before mid-October. Add three ounces of superphosphate and two ounces of lime to each barrowful of compost in which bedding plants are to be grown. Thorough blending of all ingredients is of great importance. Encourage development of spring bedding plants by surface cultivation and work in a light dusting of manure. This also serves in soil aeration and control of weeds.

Cutting, top-dressing and --oiling of lawns must be started and where new areas are to be sown down no time should be lost in initial preparation, which must be most thorough in every detail.

Where a lawn has been very mossy an iron rake with sharp teeth can be used to comb out as much of the moss as possible. A mixture consisting of three parts of finely-sifted loam, one part each of decayed leaf mould, soot and. lime, through which is blended some superfine lawn grass seed and wood ash should be distributed evenly over the surface to a depth of slightly more than a quarter of an inch. Complete planting of ornamental trees and shrubs, hedge plants, roses, and so on. Actually, evergreens and native plants move better at this season than at any other period. The rock garden will require attention; well-rotted manure mixed with soil should be used as a mulch for strong-growing plants. By working the surface when conditions are at all suitable the suppression of weeds and soil aeration are assisted.

As spring is advancing protection must be afforded against wind damage. Look over all plants which have previously been staked and tied. In many cases the stakes may be decayed or the ties worn. Those plants put in this season must be most carefully looked to, subsidence of soil may have taken place causing the ties to strain and tighten. Walks or pathways should be edged, cleaned, reformed or gravelled where necessary. It is quite as essential to have a well-kept path as it is to have a bright and colourful border. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN Never was vegetable growing of greater importance than it may be this year. The finer points of cultivation and varieties suitable for amateurs will be dealt with from week to week. It is as yet early to start sowing in a general way. Details of depth, distances and special points to be remembered will be dealt with in season through these columns. The essential operations at this period are soil preparation and manuring. Provided this work is carefully and methodically performed there will be no question of success. Spinach may be sown now in liberal quantities and at regular intervals. It is a most useful vegetable of which there is seldom a super-abundance. Broad beans and peas should be sown at intervals for succession. As they germinate draw up the’ soil to the plants and, above all, stake early. Onions should be planted, on well prepared, rich, firm ground, selecting a mild showery day. Also sow for main crops in rows 12 inches apart, the seed being in drills a quarter of an inch deep. * If the ground is not ready or conditions are not suitable for planting potatoes, time can be saved if they are sprouted in boxes. The varieties Cliff’s Kidney, Sutton’s Perfection and Jersey Bennes are most popular for early work. Whenever the surface is suitable lose no time in working it up with the hoe. After cold, wet conditions, soil is very heavy and inert; loosening will bring about aeration and cause the soil temperature to rise.

Remove yellowed or decayed leaves from such winter greens as may be left in the ground and take up stalks which have been left when greens were cut over. A very light sprinkling of sulphate of ammonia will excite spring cabbage into active growth. THE FRUIT GARDEN Vines will now burst rapidly into growth. Pinch back shoots and tie

them down to the wires. The free use of the syringe is advisable and at this stage ventilation must be most carefully controlled. If not previously attended to dig the vine border thoroughly, at the. same time incorporating a heavy dressing of manure and then water it liberally. For small fruits a good general fertilizer to work into the surface soil is blended as follows: —Superphosphate, 3 parts; sulphate of ammonia, 1 part, sulphate of potash, 1 part. For successful tomato culture indoors prepare the house in advance having it warm and moist before planting and maintain these conditions until growth is active. Avoid plants which have become chilled through exposure as they soon get “blue” and hard. Use tepid, not cold, water to put about the plants. Fork and hoe over ground dug during winter and break down rough soil to suppress growth of weeds. Old trees are rejuvenated by grafting, which operation is best performed when the bark “runs” easily. Examine any grafts made at regular intervals, filling cracks which occur with grafting wax or prepared clay. FLOWER GARDEN TOPICS To see annual flowers at their very best a deeply cultivated and well-man-ured border with a sunny aspect should be reserved for them. This can be a very charming feature of the flower garden, and the idea may be extended so as to embrace various features, such as blends of one colour or another. When planning such borders it should be remembered that some of the most beautiful annuals, are comparatively short-lived in flower, while other kinds 'will continue to flower until frost puts an end to their display. The various kinds in these two categories should occupy separate borders, and to name a few examples, in the first group I would place the clarkias and godetias, lavateras and candytuft, while the more lasting group would include the branching larkspurs, lupinus Hartwegii and L.mutabilis, the annual chrysanthemums, arcotis, nigella, alonsoas and eschscholzias.

HERBACEOUS PLANTS Many herbaceous plants are now in active growth, and some kinds are’ at the best stage for safe division and replanting. These include delphiniums, lupins, oriental poppies and pyrethrums, although i! should I e noted in passing that most of these may also be safely moved and replanted directly flowering has finished. Established plantations of delphiniums, scabiosa caucasica and pyrethrums may now be forked over and a dressing of well-rotted farmyard manure applied. When this has been done provision must be made to prevent damage by slugs. A small heap of old cinder-ashes over each delphinium stool will effect this while less robust subjects may be protected by a ring of ashes or fresh lime placed about each plant. For choice plants which object to lime in their immediate vicinity, a ring of fresh saw-dust may be substituted, indeed some lilies do not object to a small mound of this protective substance over their crowns, as in course of time it decomposes into pure humus, although possibly saw-dust from hardwoods may be preferable to that from coniferous trees for the purpose. Where gladioli are grown for cut flowers alone it is _ good plan to make two or three plantings to prolong the cutting season. Unless the soil is cold and heavy it is hardly necessary to start the corms under glass; good results will be obtained by planting direct into the open ground now. They should be planted in good, rich soil, and a quick method of planting is to take out a small, narrow trench about three inches deep and plant the corms about nine inches apart. A layer of sharp sand may be placed below the corms, and this will help to drain away any excessive moisture about the roots during spells of wet weather. ’ The primulinus group now contains man'’ fine hybrids of lovely colour, and this section will prove best for cutting. The big-flow-ered gladioli are more suitable for planting in flower borders or beds, but such planting may be deferred until about mid-April. Many semi-hardy shrubs have suffered severely during the recent spell of wintry weather, the more tender growths having been badly frosted. These may be pruned back and new | growths will develop in the course of time. Others which have fared worse may require to be cut well down and a waiting policy adopted to see if they will again break into growth before discarding them. Fortunately, a few of the choicer shrubby veronicas are already showing signs that the latter j treatment may not be necessary. Planting, or transplanting, of deciduous shrubs should now be completed before new growth appears, and evergreens may be planted during the next few weeks. Grey-foliaged shrubs are always a welcome addition to a border, as even when out of flower they make a decided contrast to the surrounding green varieties. Philmis fruiticosa, Senecio Greyii and Artemisia arborescens are examples of this group. Ivy growing on walls may be cut back closely and Jasminum nudiflorus, having now finished flowering, may be pruned and the old wood thinned out where necessary. Buddleias of the B. variabilis (Lavidii) type, and hydrangea paniculata, may be cut hard back, leaving two or three buds of last season’s growth. Garrya elliptica growing on walls and getting out of bounds may also be pruned at this season.