The Week In The Garden

Southland Times, Issue 23228, 17 June 1937, Page 13

The Week In The Garden

(By

J. A. McPHERSON)

THE GREENHOUSE

Chrysanthemums are now past their best and can be cut over. Stand the pots outside in a cool frame, but protect them from severe frosts and begin to take the basal cuttings. Insert the cuttings in boxes of sandy soil, give them a good watering and stand in a cool house or frame. See that air is admitted during the daytime, and avoid excessive moisture which only brings on attacks of mildew and mould. Standard fuchsias must be pruned hard back to the main stem and brought out into the greenhouse from their resting places. If mealy-bug is present go over the plants with a brush dipped in a solution of soap and water, to which has been added a little Blackleaf 40. .There is no occasion to hurry the plants into growth for some time yet. Begonias should all be stored away in boxes of dry soil or sand. The Bride’s Blossom (Deutzia gracilis) is a splendid shrub for forcing under glass. Lift good strong plants, pot them into tins or large pots and stand in a warm greenhouse. In early spring they will be covered with white blossom. It is too cold and wintry to attempt the repotting of ferns. Leave this work over till the days begin to lengthen and there is a little more heat in the sun. THE FLOWER GARDEN This and next month are very busy ones in the garden, provided the weather permits of planting. Lift and replant all worn-out herbaceous borders, adding new soil if possible, for most herbaceous plants are gross feeders. Dig in plenty of well-rotted manure and then scatter some bonemeal on the surface at the rate of two ounces to the square yard. Keep a sharp look-out for attacks of sparrows on primroses and polyanthus. The birds have a habit of destroying the early blooms and must be frightened away by placing strands of black cotton through the beds and supported on twigs about two inches above the plants. Sparrows are also destructive to carnation plants and may often be observed tugging away at the young growth in the centre of each shoot. If the soil is good begin the planting of roses. Remember that the union of the plant to its rootstock must be buried two inches below the surfacd. If this is not done there will be no sturdy bottom growth and in the heat of summer the union is liable to split and crack open, resulting in the gradual death of the plant. The distance to plant varies according to the type of growths. Some roses are very vigorous and others are very shy. Two feet between the plants is a good average distance and this permits of under planting with violas or pansies. Ih the actual operation of planting, the roots must not be turned up at the tips, but spread out evenly in the hole and the soil gently worked into position about them. If the soil is sticky use a little prepared soil which has been kept slightly on the dry side. The soil should be placed firmly in position, but not rammed tightly, especially if it is wet, which would have the effect of excluding the necessary air so essential to the growth of the soil bacteria. A start can be made with the planting of trees and shrubs. Evergreens for screens or for a background and deciduous shrubs in front of them. There are flowering cherries, prunus and apples which not only delight the eye in spring, but give added attraction to the garden in autumn with their richly coloured fruits and foliage. A good flowering apple with large fruits is John Downing, and J. H. Veitch is a splendid pink-flowered cherry. Prunus Moseri is the double-flowered plum and Prunus Mume the flowering apricot.

Among the shrubs one can choose various Contoneasters and Berberis with their wealth of berries in the autumn. Cotoneaster horizontalis will cling to a sunny wall. C. bullata is good and C. pannosa even better. Berberis Walsonae and B. Prattii will never fail to give a wealth of berries and from the many new hybrids one can choose Berberis ferox, B.X. comet, and B.X. Firefly. Do not neglect the sweet little Spiraeas, more especially C. Thunbergii and S. Van Houtei, both good shrubs. Then there are the magnolias, of which M. Stellata is a gem. Viburnum Carlesii and V. fragrans are both sweetly scented and last a long time in bloom. Philadelphus (mock-orange) has several good species to choose from, and the Weigelias will give bloom even in the poorest soil. And, finally, do not overlook the dwarf Conifers which give a touch of dignity to the garden in the depth of winter. Plant now in earnest and do not harbour useless shrubs when better ones are available. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Large-headed cabbage will not burst with the frosts if the plants are eased over to one side to protect the tops. Look over all crops of stored onions as there are generally a few on the soft side which, if not removed, will start decay through the whole batch. Lift and replant rhubarb into good soil, using only strong vigorous crowns. On wet days begin to box up tubers of potatoes, eyes upwards, into shallow trays. Stand them in the open shed or under a hedge. Give plenty of light, but protect from frosts. Remember that certified seed gives larger crops free from prevailing diseases and good sprouted sets will mean a healthy and sturdy-topped crop. Trench all vacant ground, throwing it up rough to the action of the weather. See that all drains are clear and in wet localities throw the soil up into long narrow beds to avoid a shallow water-table. A well-drained soil is several degrees warmer than a waterlogged soil. Lift and divide chives. They are most useful in early spring when onions are scarce. They like a' light but rich soil in full sunshine. In small vegetable gardens these plants form an attractive edging along any pathway. Cleanliness must be rigorously practised in the vegetable garden. Any diseased crops should be burnt and all rubbish and leaves placed on the compost heap. Alternating a layer of soil with each layer of refuse helps in the decomposition of the heap. A little lime can be sprinkled through the heap as the process of stacking is being carried out. RARE AND CHOICE SHRUBS

Abelia Schumann is one of the most noteworthy of Wilson’s introductions. Its long flowering period—about four months—its hardiness and its ability to thrive, under most conditions, should make it a popular shrub in our gardens. It grows from sft to Bft high, forming a neat pendulous bush. The blush-pink flowers are shaped like those of a pentstemon, and are accompanied by red, leafy bracts which add considerably to its attractiveness. It flowers from November until March. A group of this shrub makes a beautiful effect. It is Evergreen and comes from Central China. Cytisus Battandieri is a rare and beautiful broom. This shi-ub was recently introduced from Morocco, where it was found growing on the

middle Atlas Mountains at an altitude of 6000 ft. It is the most remarkable of all the brooms. It grows up to 15ft in height, and has most unusual leaves for a broom. These leaves are one and a-half to three and a-half inches long, and one to one and a-half inches wide. Both the upper and under surfaces are covered with silky white hairs, giving them a silvery appearance. The fragrant, bright yellow flowers are produced in compact spikes, which are about five inches long, giving the plant a striking appearance when in full bloom. It received the Royal Horticultural Society s Award of Merit when shown by Mr Hay, curator of the London Gardens, on June 16, 1931, and on June 19, 1934, he secured for it the highest honour given by the society, the first-class certificate.

Few shrubs or small trees are more beautiful than the Cercis canadensis family at its best. Most gardeners are familiar with C. siliquastrum, the “Judas Tree” from Southern Europe, but C. canadensis is a new arrival to our gardens. It is rarely seen out of the United States, where it is familiarly known as “Red-bud.” It is a deciduous tree, growing 15 to 30ft high. The flowers are pale rose, and are produced in clusters of four to eight blossoms during spring. Eucryphia Pinatifolia is one of the finest autumn-flowering shrubs, bearing in February a profusion of satiny white flowers two and a-half inches across. In addition it winds up the season with a leaf colour pf unrivalled splendour. No shrub is more worthy of the attention of anyone who can give it a cool lime-free soil. A moist position is essential for successful cultivation. This shrub is a native of Chile. Cydonia cathayensis is _ a deciduous shrub of open habit growing 12 to 15ft high, having branches furnished with spurs several inches long. Its white flowers are not remarkable for their beauty, the interest in this, shrub lying in the attractive fruits, which are from five to six inches long and two and ahaif to three and a-half inches wide. These are produced freely and always create much attention. Henry, one of the earliest plant collectors in China, collected this unusual shrub in the province of Hupeh. The shrub collector who wants a rarity will not overlook the Dipelta Florabunda. It belongs to a genus exclusively Chinese, and has been cultivated in western gardens only a few years. It forms a deciduous shrub some 10 to 12 feet in height, with an upright habit, although often developing straggling side branches which add greatly to the floral display by forming pendulous arches of blossom. The fragrant flowers, produced during early summer, are blush-pink with a yellow throat, about one to one and a-half inches in length. On a fair-sized specimen there may be hundreds of blossoms on each side-branch. Plant in a good loam, and moist conditions are preferred. The forsythias are beautiful early spring flowering shrubs of easy cultivation. This variety has the largest flowers, and is the most beautiful ana showy of them all. Raised in L. Spath’s nursery in Germany, it soon achieved popularity, and proved its ability to withstand severe winters of Northern Germany, and produce its glowing masses of rich golden yellow flowers in spring with unfailing regularity. It has a stiffer habit than other Forsythias, and is effective either as a single specimen when its uneven growths give the plant a picturesque appearance, or in groups, when the wonderful profusion of flowers provide a beautiful display which lasts for several weeks. This shrub received the first class certificate, R.H.S., in 1935. Its height is sft. Helianthemum Formosum is a lowgrowing shrub with wide-spreading branches, growing two to three feet high, but more in width. It is a native of Portugal, and is perhaps the most beautiful of all the sun-roses. Very hardy, frosts of 30 degrees will not injure it This gay, summer flowering shrub can be used on a large rockery, on dry banks, or in the front of the shrubbery. Its flowers are bright rich yellow, one and a-half inches across, each petal having a conspicuous brownish purple blotch. Parrotia Persica is one of the most gorgeous autumn-foliaged trees yet introduced into New Zealand. The flowers which appear in spring, have crimson tipped stamens, which render them conspicuous, but the autumn colouring of the leaves constitutes the chief charm of the parrotia. Its vivid red, coppery-gold, and orange leaves at that season has made the parrotia one of the most valued trees in English gardens. Spirea Arborea is another of Wilson’s introductions. This beautiful small tree is distinguished by its vigour, its extra fine foliage, and abnormally large racemes of flowers. When covered with blossom in summer it is quite a remarkable sight The flowers are pure white, and the inflorescences exceedingly light and graceful. It is hardy. Laburnums A laburnum that is flowering well every year needs no pruning beyond the removal of weak inside wood and sappy green shoots that spring out of the trunk. A tree that is making a lot pf laterals or long side-shoots must be forced into its flowering stride by judicious pruning. Tackle each branch separately, and cut back the side-shoots to within two buds or eyes from their base. Make a slanting cut immediately above each selected bud or eye, clean out altogether the whippy stuff that arises from the trunk, and you will get an abundance of good bloom.—The Dominion. New Beans The new semi-climbing French bean named Bonne Boucle requires the same cultivation as runner beans. It requires no slicing or stringing, and the pods when young are cooked whole. No vegetable garden should be without at least a row of stringless French beans. Early Queen is a stringless croppodded early variety of compact growth, which produces an abundant crop of early delicious beans. These should be cooked whole.

Everbearing stringless runner beans are quite distinct from scarlet runners. Both the seeds and the pods resemble the dwarf variety, and the pods, which are without fibre, are borne in great abundance.

The new early-cropping runner bean known as Princeps is the most prolific variety yet introduced. It is usually ready for picking 14 to 21 days earlier than other varieties. It is, therefore, a valuable variety for market growers. The pods are produced in large clusters and borne on plants more dwarf than most varieties.

Hollington Scarlet Runner is better adapted for growing without supports than any other runner bean. It is necessary, however, to top the chief shoots as soon as they begin to run, and this causes the plant to form a compact bush, which produces a fine crop of beans.—Popular Gardening, London.