CAMPBELL ISLAND

Southland Times, Issue 20523, 27 June 1928, Page 8

CAMPBELL ISLAND

A RECENT VISIT

PLEASANT TRIP ON THE AWARUA CAPTAIN PETRIE’S IMPRESSIONS In view of the fact that Captain I. L. Petrie, of Invercargill, paid a visit to the Southern islands of New Zealand on the Awarua during her recent visit south a Times reporter waited upon him yesterday to gain some information as to the geographical and historical features of these little known islands.

The genial captain explained that Campbell Island, the most distant island visited on the voyage, was discovered by Captain Hozahburga, master of the brig Perseverance, a sealer out of Sydney. He called the island after the owner of the ship, Mr Robert Campbell, of Sydney, and the name of the brig is carried by one of the island’s harbours—Perseverance Harbour. To ’fill an emergency Captain Petrie agreed to act as first mate on the Awarua on a voyage to Campbell Island. Th® Arawa is owned by a Syndicate which is represented by Captain Hamilton. The vessel is driven by engines of 50 nominal horsepower, is of 87 tons registered tonnage, and about 250 tons gross. She carried a crew of 12. During the coming summer this little seaboat may be placed at the disposal of any tourists who have the time and inclination to make a trip the southern islands' and the West Coast Sounds, and it is being used for fishing purposes on the West Coast Sounds since her return from the south. Captain Petrie said that credit was due to the cook, Mr Berryman, who prepared food in all weather on the trip. “Leaving the Bluff about midnight on June 9,” said Captain Petrie, “we experienced calm, beautiful weather with a alight easterly swell, and on the following morning, daylight broxe over the south-eastern shores of Stewart Island. We coasted along past Pegasus, took our departure from Murphy or Green Island and set a course for the Auckland Islands. We passed the Snares that afternoon. These consist of large lumps of rocks rising abruptly from the sea with one main island upon which the seals are said to congregate in large numbers. During the night the wind increased from the north-west, bringing ram and dirty weather, and the little vessel battled through the seas sturdily and made one think of that old song, ‘Rocked in the Cradle of the Deep.’ There was very little peace about the ship that night, however, and probably no one slept very much, the lively little boat forcing one to regulate one’s bodv to avoid being thrown out of the bunks and sent hurtling from one side of the ship to the other. A good grip had to be taken on the nearest fixture. But at daybreak the weather cleared somewhat and the sea went down slightly and about 1 p.m. on Sunday, June 10, the north-west point of the Auckland Islands was sighted.” He went on to say that this point, which showed a large white patch, rose sheer from the sea to a great height. The Awarua coasted down along the shores of Enderby Island and passed within half a mile of a reef where the Derry Castle was wrecked some years ago. It is stated that the crew did not see the land until the vessel struck on the reef. Sixteen of the crew were drowned and the crew of the Awarua could see distinctly oh the shore the figurehead of the vessel, the monument which had been erected to mark the graves of those who had perished. A number of wild cattle could also be discerned, one of which was pure white, and in passing Ocean Island a number of goats could be seen grazing there. The Awarua proceeded up Port Ross Harbour to near the depots and anchored in about seven fathoms on a good holding ground inside Magnetic Island, which is said to affect ship’s compasses to some degree. Next morning they hove up anchor and put out to sea, but the wind set in from south-south-east with rain and misty foggy weather, and the captain decided to return to the anchorage where they lay all day, those of the crew desiring to go ashore taking advantage of the forced stay to explore the island. Captain Petrie in company with others went, ashore where they visited and inspected the Government depot and boat shed; the latter place housing a boat complete with mast, sail, oars and rowlocks, in readiness for use by ant castaways who may be shipwrecked there. Most of the provisions have been taken away by the Government steamers on account of so few sailing ships now passing that way on their voyage to the Old Country from the Australian coast. This year, however, some 15 or 16 sailing vessels have loaded when in Australia, and as they invariably strike a southerly course there is no saying when a vessel may be cast away on these islands.

During the Awarua crew’s visit ashore, one of the crew picked up a board which had been nailed to a tree which had fallen, and upon it was carved, “S.S. Southland, 23 October, 1865.” The man who found it having no particular purpose in view with this board, Captain Petrie secured it for a small sum of money, with the idea of presenting it to the Invercargill Museum, if the gift would be accepted, as showing that in those early times, 63 years ago, there was actually a steamship which had visited the Auckland Islands.

Captain Petrie said that the climate down there was really very equable practically all the year round, and snow did not lie there for very long. The same thing applied to Campbell Island, on which is a good deal of limestone formation. At the Aucklands bird-life was fairly prolific. The bell-bird and the tui were heard singing in the bush amongst the rata trees which grow right down to near the water’s edge at one side of the anchorage at Port Ross, which, by the way, is an excellent anchorage in all weathers. Seals were heard roaring during the night and a few were seen by various members of the crew. These seals land on the shore and travel a little distance into the bush, going off again to seek their breakfast or dinner, as the case may be. Any fish caught round either the Aucklands or Campbell Island are of little use for food as they are full of white, repulsivelooking worms, but flounders caught at the latter island are good, though between the shags and seals the fishing grounds are kept fairly clean of this species of fish. At 10 o’clock on the Tuesday morning the Awarua weighed anchor and stood out on a course for Campbell Island; rounding the south-eastern point of that island and passing Monumental Harbour about midday on Wednesday. Captain Petrie observed that this harbour was unique, being different from any part of the New Zealand coast he had ever seen. Several large rocks stood like sentinels sheering up from the water’s edge, one large pinnacle resembling a cloaked figure standing on a pedestal. From this the harbour takes the name of Monumental Harbour. This part is much frequented by seals, the only way to get near them being by boat from the sea, the sheer cliffs preventing a land approach.

The Awarua continued on to Perseverance Harbour, arriving there about 1.30 p.m. and let go anchor in about eight fathoms of water. This harbour penetrates westwards between three and four miles and is very much like Lyttelton Harbour, with steep land on both sides and a splendid anchorage, the deepest part being 27 fathoms, shallowing to three fathoms and less at the farthest end, where the woolshed and the dwelling of the shepherds are situated.

When the Awarua was sighted the seven mtn on the island, some of whom had been there for 18 months, and had been for some time expecting relief as their time expired last March, rushed wildly down to the small jetty. Excited hurrahs broke the silence of the island showing the relief that was felt at the advent of civilization among them once more. They were all well. It was then learned that 61 bales of wool and three or four bales of sheepskins were ready for shipment by the Awarua on her return voyage.

"While the loading work was going on and as I was not required I went ashore and had a good look round in company with Messrs James and Arthur Warren, both of whom were left alone on the inland when we sailed later,” said Captain Petrie. “I climbed Mount Beeman and had a good look round a perfect cone on the north side of the harbour. 649 feet in height. The highest mountain on the island is Mount Honey, which is 1867 feet in height. Mount Paris is 1526 feet and is a perfect cone in shape, but from the sea side is split right down into two halves. By the way, when leaving the island in clear weather, we could see Mount Honey at a distance of over 40 miles, which is a most unusual thing and not experienced by those who have visited the island before. The great drawback to this island is that it is frequently obscured by fog and cannot be picked up for days, and even weeks on end until within a few miles of the coast, the dense fog and misty, rainy weather blotting it out even though it is so high. The following day I tramped across the island accompanied by Mr S. George, one of the shepherds, for a distance of some 54 miles from the woolshed to North-west Harbour, where the sea lions congregate. I counted about 20 of these creatures on the beach and got within a few feet of them. One Uig bull made a roar and a rush towards me, but we easily frightened him back by shouting, and with the aid of a few well-placed stones. One of us kept watch while each carved his initials on the face of the overhanging cliff alongside other initials that we found there.”

He continued that it was very amusing to see how the sea lions lolled about on the sand, turning over on their backs and stretching themselves as if to go to sleep. Two females who were lying together close to one big bull began a ferocious fight and it lent a human touch to the sight to see the way the big bull got in between them, giving one a shove to one, side and then turning to the other as much as to say: “I say, you two, look here, behave yourselves.”

On returning to the woolshed the trampers went round the other side of the hill which they had to pass to reach Northwest Harbour, and the view of the coast from the land side was magnificent. The walking was fairly stiff with two inches of frozen snow on the ground and many crab holes amongst the tussocks to trip the unwary, some being about six or seven feet deep, in which sheep were lost sometimes. Many ratholes were seen, but Captain Petrie saw only two rats during the whole journey. On the hill sides in bleak, exposed spots were to be seen young baby albatrosses, which are fed by their mothers for 12 months before they take to flight. They presented a beautiful sight, having the appearance of great white snowballs dotted here and there about the landscape. These young birds sit there quite helpless and can neither fly nor walk until well on towards the end of the year and are usually fed about sundown when the parent returns to the sea. The grown albatrosses climb on a projecting mound to enable them to get* the wind under their large wings to fly away. There is not a tree on this wind-swept island, which has never been surveyed, but is said to contain about 28,000 acres is about 30 miles in circumference and is able to carry about 7000 sheep which are all well fed on their natural grasses, but the present lessees graze about 3000 sheep only. Last year they mustered about 600 lambs. No vegetables grow on the island so far as has been learned. Turnips have been tried, but they run completely to shaws. Some rhubarb roots have been planted and were just coming to leaf during Captain Petrie’s visit. There is a good growth of a small scrubby bush from three to six feet high, which is called the She-oak. A good deal of this has been burned off by the present lessees to make charcoal which is used as a fuel, but there is still plenty left for that purpose. There is also a quantity of peat which could be cut and dried by stacking on edge preparatory to being used as fuel. Some of the lower scrub was burned off during the very dry summer, experienced on the island last year, and immediately it cooled down, the sheep were to be seen on it cropping the succulent young grass. The sheep on the whole are of a good stamp. One killed during Captain Petrie’s visit weighed over 701bs. In the speaker’s opinion inbreeding has somewhat spoiled the flock, as practically all the sheep herd together, only one fence dividing the island, new stock and some new blood being required to make the venture a success as a progressive sheep station. There are no rabbits on the island, and no singing bird life, the only land birds being a few robins and some wild ducks. There is also a small mob of wild cattle and a wild dog. The latter animal has been suspected of helping himself to sheep, and will be despatched by a bullet at the earliest opportunity. Sandflies are prevalent in the summer time only. Several rookeries of penguins are on the island, and sea elephants pay an occasional visit. Thick weather and strong winds having set in from the northwest, the Awarua’s sailing date was postponed for two days at the anchorage and it was not until Monday, June 18, that the anchor was lifted and a course set for Bluff. On the Tuesday morning a strong head wind and a heavy swell were experienced, which delayed the voyage somewhat. At 7.30 a.m. on the Wednesday morning Stewart Island was sighted. The weather was fairly calm by then with a slight rain and a dull sky. The patent log showed 344 miles from Bull Rock off North East Harbour, Campbell Island. Fine weather held out and the Awarua arrived back at Bluff about 2 p.m. on the Wednesday, after a twelve days’ trip.

“In conclusion, ” said Captain Petrie, “I can only say that taking it all through for this time of the year we had a great trip with nothing to complain about. We brought up five shepherds and their dogs who were glad to reach once more the civilization they had missed so long. Two others were left on the island. I only wish the town of Invercargill was possessed of such good harbours as exist at Port Ross in the Auckland Islands and Perseverance Harbour at Campbell Island. If we had such a harbour as either of these in Invercargill, we would be well set up to cater for ships of the largest tonnage that sail our coasts. One thing that struck me very forcibly is that all good harbours, both on the coast of New Zealand and the southern islands, are on the east side of thQ country, similar to the harbours of Japan where I had considerable experience on the coast. The prevailing winds in all cases are westerly and southwesterly. I do not know the explanation, but such is the case, the reasons for which may be solved by some person interested in the question.”