HER LADYSHIP

Southland Times, Issue 19123, 15 December 1923, Page 15 (Supplement)

HER LADYSHIP

ORGANDIES IN PARIS. BOUFFANT SKIRTS. Full organdie dresses are one of the most charming features of the /jrowd at Deauville (writes Isabel Ramsay, the Paris correspondent of the Sydney Sunday Times). The racecourse is one of the places where they appear most; they are charmingly frequent at garden parties and they are, of course, perfectly comme il faut any place in the joyous resort during the whole afternoon. The typical organdie robe-de-style has a close-fitting bodice, and this points or rounds downward at the front of the waistline, which is usually rather 'long, as all the couturiers are thinking in terms of the lowered waist-line. It may be fastened up the centre back with a set of charming little buttons, or it may have an invisible closing along the under-arm seam. The sleeves are short and may fit the arm closely or be the tiny, puffed sleeves such as were worn in the ’3o’s and AO’s. The skirts are fuller and fuller. Some of these organdie skirts attain the width of five yards (which again smacks of the ’3o’s), and in case the organdie might not be stiff enough to make them duly bouffant, they may have the hem run through with a band of white horsehair or crin, as the dressmakers call it here. A few of these bouffant frocks have full skirted petticoats beneath them, but by far the greatest number simply make the full transparent skirt of the organdie a decoration which falls over a narrow slip petticoat.

One of the most attractive frocks of this sort seen during the season was of. white organdie over a slip of brilliant silver cloth. White is, of course, the favourite colour for these thin, crisp frocks; but not every woman can wear pure white. This brilliantly coloured trimming is often added to the white organdie frocks. One of Jean Paton’s frocks thus had large yellow flowers appliqued on to the full skirt, some on the inside, some on the outside, of the organdie. Other designers have used cocades of pleated or ruffled ribbon in green, pink, mauve, bright red, or even black. Another charming trimming which adds colour, is a flower bouquet, which is often placed at the left side of the waistline. A pretty example of this was a tight little bouquet of pink and yellow rose buds surrounded with a flat row of leaves, to form one of the formal posies such as our grandmothers delighted in; but a modern touch was added in the ribbons which surrounded the stems and fell in long streamers of pink, yellow and green to the hem of the frock. Knotted in these ribbons were a few rosebuds and ferns, and a wreath of the same flowers encircled the forehead of the pretty wearer. The most serious rival of these organdie dresses are the crepe dresses, which follow simple, lines, and not infrequently have pleated panels in their skirts, or pleated tunics over the skirts. VEILS AND BAGS. FASHIONS IN AMERICA. NEW .YORK, October 10. Veils are once more in vogue, the net veil, dotted or plain, is passe. Women have covered their hair with invisible nets to hold it in place, and the cloche hats have so concealed it that the veil has lately had no logical place. Now with the slightly lifted hat brim, the veil is once more in demand. It may be of lace—chantilly or any of the novelty laces—and is arranged in many different ways. It is drawn around the front of the hat, to fall slightly over the brim in front and hang low at Ihe back. It may be dropped, a square of silk net outlined in a pattern, over the crown of the hat, to fall in a ripple, front and back. There are pretty veils in all black, black and white or coloured; and one of the newest ideas is to have the veil in the same shade as the hat, whatever that may be. Taupe, grey, beige, blue, green, violet, henna, are some of the colours in which the new silk veils are dyed. The last word, however, is the nose veil, a filmy mask of chantilly or any fine lace. It is a coquettish fancy brought from the Orient by way of Paris, but which, like the sailor hat, becomes best the women under 21. Motor veils and weather veils are quite another story. They are soft and protecting and delightful in colour. Millions of yards of chiffon and georgette veiling are sold- Spanish lace and chantilly scarfs are-worn as veils, completely covering the hat and face, being wound around the neck Ever since women have worn petticoats and pockets, the purse has been an important feature of the wardrobe. The old portemonnaie went into any 'convenient place and served as a money wallet only. After a time there were reticules which became very fashionable. They were carried for style, to hold the handkerchief, fan, coin, purse, knitting, etc. Since the purse has evolved into something interesting and lovely. The beaded bag corner in every shop in a familiar attraction, and the stock has lately been greatly enhanced by a display of bags both practical and ornamental. Some are almost as large as a lawyer’s brief case, made of rich brocades or tapestry. Others are of velvet suede and fancy ribbons. The choicest buckles and ornaments are used in the frames and fittings-—jade, coral, amber, tortoise shell, and an infinite variety of these are modeled into effective clasps and trimmings. On a deep oval bag of silver brocade the silver frame is studded with medallions of red Persian enamel. These and the clasp were taken from the bands of a donkey’s trappings, such as were used

in ancient, royal processions in the I’ar East' Grandma’s reticule is now carried by her granddaughter LONG SKIRT MISERIES. EIGHTEEN OBJECTIONS. An Englishwoman who has tried long skirts has 18 reasons for deploring them. They are:— „ Because my motto is “comfort first. Because an ankle-length skirt draws attention to the size of my feet. Because “worn longer” does not mean “wears longer.” Because I have cultivated a free and easy stride which it is hard to get out of. Because I find I cannot keep up to the pace of a male escort as I used to do. Because if a long skirt is full it looks like a sack ; and if it is narrow one looks like a mummy. Because every time I get on a bus I sweep the step. Because the bus conductor often has to help me to get off. Because when climbing stairs I have to hold up my skirt with one hand and do juggling tricks with my handbag, umbrella and parcels. Because no skirt which has to be constantly held up can possibly keep its shape. Because I no longer look like the sister of my 16-year-old daughter. Because on the last rainy day I, caught cold through having a clamp skirt hanging about my ankles. Because long skirts are more expensive and take more material. Because I heard a man say: “Women looked much better in short skirts!” Because even dance frocks are designed to touch the tops of the shoes. Because my dancing master ignores the fashion and says “longer steps please this season; gracefully and evenly!” Because I dislike a worn or untidy hem. Because I wonder if I look as awkward as other long-skirted women!