A FEW SECRETS ABOUT FITTING

Shannon News, 30 October 1928, Page 4

A FEW SECRETS ABOUT FITTING

Many women hesitate to make their own frocks because they do not understand just how to fit) them. "Fitting is the easiest thing in the world," declares the expert, "once you know the fundamental rule. That is: the cross -threads of the material should run straight around the figure. If they clip down in some places and run up in others, something is decidedly wrong. The Avhole fitting problem lies in discovering where the lines of the garment need to be changed to. bring the cross threads of the cloth into the correct position." v Often a slight • alteration at' the shoulder seam Will accomplish this. If the shoulders are unusually sloping, the garment will wrinkle from the nock to the underarm seam, both back and front, when it is tried on for fitting. This is'because'the cross threads of the material sag at the sides. The remedy is effected by rcpinning' the shoulder seams so they conform to the lines of the shoulders. This process may take up the armhole so it will be necessary to slash it slightly at the curve to make it fit nicely and not biud the, arm. Remove the garment, trim out the armhole and reshape the shoulder seam. Using as a guide the pieces cut off, make similar alterations on the pattern so the next time it is used the same trouble will not recur. Consider the Cross Threads

The thin, hollow-chested woman often finds that high-necked frocks draw-and wrinkle at the base of her neck. Even her low-necked gowns frequently have baggy, sagging lines in the front, a trouble that is not always eliminated by . the amateur's method of taking the sag out at the bottom by raising the hem line. The ,body of the dress cannot look trim unless the centre front is lifted to bring the cross threads of the material into their proper position: so they run straight around the figure. The alteration is. made at the shoulder seams by taking the front up considerably near the neck and tapering the alteration toward the armhole. This will make it necessary to slash the neck and make a new neckline. Unusually square shoulders may make a bodice wrinkle from the shoulders in one or more slanting lines. Lven a slight irregularity in the shoulder line often causes frocks to wrinkle badly. If the shoulders take the material up go the cross threads of the cloth run down toward the centre, a shoulder >eam alteration must be made to lift the centre of the garment to its proper position. By drawing up the end of the shoulder seam at the neck, one eliminates such wrinkles. Of course, this -demands a new neck line. Correct the Pattern Also.

Shoulders unusually straight and a flat back make gowns drag down in the- back and fit in ugly baggy lines above the waist and low in the back. This case demands a lifting of the back of the dress at the shoulders. This may make necessary a new neckline and a slight slashing of the material back of the armholes uuder the arms.. This alteration will correct the fit of the waist of the skirt. If the skirt still bags in the back after the alteration at the shoulders, lift the baek of the skirt slightly at the belt line and fastea it there under the girdle that is now so popular as a. finish. All these alterations made in the dress should be duplicated oh the pat tern before that is put away. It takes time, it is true, and just when one is most interested in getting ahead with the work, but minutes spent then will save hours later when the pattern is used again. _____