OUR YORKSHIRE LETTER.

Otago Witness, Issue 3327, 19 December 1917, Page 29

OUR YORKSHIRE LETTER.

(Fbom Otjr Special CourtESPONnE^T.) BRADFORD, October 4. INCREASING GOVERNMENT REQUIREMENTS.

During the week a number of Army Council orders have been issued relating to 'the present and future conduct of the wool textile industry, and some are worth more than passing attention. It has been intimated very clearly that further large khaki orders are going to be placed. Early this year the War Office adopted a very sensible plan in placing these army orders. Instead of the officials themselves going direct to firms with orders, manufacturers' committees were established in such centres as. Bradford, Keighley, Leeds, Dewsbury, and Hudderafield. Really they wore manufacturers' associations, and the department has dealt directly with the secretary of the various associations, intimating that so many million yards were to be placed in Huddersfield, Batley, Dewsbury, or elsewhere, according to the manufacturing capacity of the district. This has saved officials a good deal of work, and has led to a more equal distribution of the orders than would otherwise have taken place. It now turns out that some 16.000,000 yards of khaki are to be given out for production from next January to 'the end of April, and the various associations have been asked to say what they can take. By this system all manufacturers are given a reasonable chance. Last week I mentioned that in order to make wool supplies go further the War Office Cloth Department had decided to use larger quantities of the byproducts of the trade; hence big weights of garneted thread wastes, noils, and khaki mungo (made from cast-off soldiers' suits) are -being blended. As a matter of fact. 50 per cent, of virgin wool now forms 'the basis of the' blends for the woollen weft yarns, the. warps still being spun from pure wool tops in various lengths, aecording to the weight and quality of the doth required. It is really surprising what a ulertd of wool and other materials produces, and the_ cloth is spoken of as being in no sense inferior.. YARNS REQUIRED FOR GOVERNMENT CLOTHS. „. . An item of considerable interest to every reader of this issue is a list of the warps that are being spun for the production of: the various cloths required by _ the army. There is no secret about _ this, because they have been, published in a series of articles .sanctioned by the Army Council, and the particulars below give some most useful information to growers- as showing what qualities of wooL are required and being largely used in the production of Government cloths. Every wool-grower should digest the following particulars-, as there is a wealth o£ - information in .them. A little explanation will be very useful. The shalloon cloth mentioned is really a fabric being made for the linings of shells, and has never been made for or used by the British army before. It is used for lining the shell which carries the charge, and is made in various- strengths, according to the weight of the charge inside the shell. Not only are these shalloon cloths made from medium crosebrods, but also from the very best merino. The particulars supplied! below are all crossbred, both warp and weft. The cream serge is a very thinly-made fabric, and is larcrely used for the lining of the great coats. Tlv's is all. for the purpose of retaining the heat of the body. The drab serge is simply the ordinary serge for Brit'sh Tommies' tunics. It has a medium quality warp, arid a woollen weft, spun from 1.0 to 12 skeins.^ Tartan No. 2 is a finer quality khxki fabr : c. and is reallv the cloth that is h"ing made to-day in very big quantities. This, ton is us"d for soldiers' tunics. The whipcord is a verv sound, bnlkv fabric entirely used by the Royal Field ArtilWy, made solely into rid?n<? breeches. Tie reader can easily understand thar the R.F.A. men require trousers- possessing great wearing capacity, as they are subi r ct to so much wear and tear when havin<r to ride on horecback and in the onei-aiion °f firing guns. The tartan serge is a very well made fabrio which is used in the production of soldiers' trousers. It is heavier 'than the dr<b scree. The Russian serge cloth is distinctly PDTirsor in quality +ban that 'used bv Great Br'tain and her Allies. It is a well-made, sound fabr'c, heavier ; n weighty than the cloths morle for the 'British rifmy. Big quantities have been made by West Riding manufacturers: The following are the particulars of the wnrp« and weft" used in the iirodnetion of tli" cloths enumerated:—• Shalloon. —2-40's cro?sbred warp, white; 1.28's crossbred weft, white. Cream P^rge.—2-36e 56's nuab'tv warp, white : 1.20's 56's rmalitv weft, white. D>-ab Serge.—2-21's 44's- quality warp. khaki. Tartan No. 2. 2-24's 43'= oualitv warp, kb«l.-i. Whineord.—2-12's 50 per cent. 50 ! s duality and 50 ner cent. 64'* quality warp, khaki; 2-12's 50 per cent. 50's quality and 50 per

cent. 64's quality weft, khaki. Both reverse twist. .Tartan No. 4.—2-12's 50's quality warp, khaki. l-6£'e 80 per cent. 50's quality and 20 per cent. 60's quality weft, khaki. Russian.— 2.12's 32's quality warp, white; 1-6's 32's quality weft, white. OFFICERS' UNIFORM CLOTHS. The Secretary of the War Office has is.sued an order intimating that the scheme for the manufacture and supply of standard cloths for officers' wear is now complete, and that it is illegal for any manufacturer to produce these and for merchants and tailors to sell them without Government sanction. All along it has seemed very strange that manufacturers could produce officers' clothing and sell it privately to merchants and tailors, the Government providing nothing whatever for officers. Of course, they go to first-class tailors for their outfit, and apparently they have been paying more than circumstances warranted. In order to stop all chance of profiteering, the Government has had 16 standard cloths made covering the requirements of all officers, and now manufacturers wishing to -make these have 'to apply for permission. Prices have been fixrd right away from the raw material to the tailor, who can only charge standard fixed values. DISTRIBUTION SALE "OFF." The trade has been expecting that there would be this month a distribution sale of colonial wools in London, but owing to the small number of applications made by manufacturers the thing has been declared off. Evidently users can satisfy their requirements at the Wool Distribution Office, Manor row, Bradford, and" therefore the last has been heard of distribution sales for some time to come. It has been mentioned that possibly spinners who own their own combing machines may be invited to go to London to select their own wool, but that is very unlikely. REVISED TOP PRICES. There should have been published early this, week a revised list of top prices, but this is not yet forthcoming. Everything seems to point to some sensible advances, and now the Government desires spinners to etop no frames, but to use whatever stocks of tops they have on hand, which will be replaced in due course at current prices. Spinnere are also requested to make a return of all outstanding contracts. This is being done to clear up arrears, and so enable tho department to make a. straight edge. They will be able to completely carry out the present scheme of State control.