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HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

Br J. Gebbi*. RIVINIA HUMILIS. This is an extremely pretty decorative plant, for though the flowers are insignificant, the berries tliat succeed them are borne in such numbers and are so brightly coloured that a few good specimens form a very pretty feature in the greenhouse during autumn, and in a warmer structure Inter on. It is easily raised from seed, and forms a slender, loose-growing plant if allowed to assume its natural character, in which condition it is far more pleasing lhan when trained and tied. There are forms, but this is equal to any of those with scarlet berries. Rivinia humilis is a native of the West Indies, and in some districts quite a weed. CLUB IN CABBAGES. Information is frequently wanted as to the cause of club in cabbages and cauliflowers, and how to prevent the same in future. The cause of clubbing is the cabbage fly (Anthomyia brassicae), the maggots of which when full grown leave the plants and turn to pupaa, inside which the flies form. The remedy often advi-ed is of little use to growing plants, the pests being in the earth. The only remedy is tc destroy the plants and prevent the pest reappearing by dressing the soil. The evil is aggravated by planting year after year cabbages in the same place. Other plants, such as onions and spinach, should not occupy the land for a time. The soil would bo benefited by resting a thorough digging in winter and growing some green crop that could be dug in. Where space is limited one must at times plant a similar crop and it can be done if strong measures are taken to rid the soil of the pet. The beet remedy is gas-lime used iibe:ally on the land before cropping. A good d'rrssing of fresh gas-lime spread over the surface for a few days and then dug in will be of great assistance in destroying the pe«t. It is well to break up the lime as small as possible. There is no better time than the present for ■ this work, and the land should be deeply dug or trenched, leaving it as rough as possible to the action of the winter's frost and rain. Omit animal manures for a season, using instead guano, superphosphate of lime, or nitrate of soda, which may be given in the early spring. It is a good plan 60 fork' over the ground once or twice before cropping. Ordinary lime, burnt refuse, and wood ashes m : xed' and placed in the rows before planting will keep the plants clean for a season. PLANTING BULBOUS ROOTS. Hyacinths intended for the borders of the flower garden will succeed well if planted at this season, where they are to remain to flower. The only preparation that is necessary for them is to lcosen the spot where each patch of two or three bulbs is to be planted to the depth of a foot. If the soil be strong and damp, a little sand may be added to it to render it more light, but in any ordinarily good garden soil the hyacinth will succeed perfectly well. Tulips, like all other bulbous plants, prefer a deep, rich, light sandy soil; but thoy wili grow well in most ordinary garden soil that is not too damp or heavy. They are generally planted two or three inches deep Ranunculi and anemones prefer a stronger soil than most other bulbs. "Where they are grown in beds a stratum of well-rotted cow dung should be placid about sin under the surface, and well mixed with the mould below that depth, but the earth above this stratum, into which the roots aro to be planted, should be kept, perfectly free of dung, which would bo injurious rather than otherwise to the roots of the plants. The roots should be planted, not deeper than about 2in, and about 4in apart. The best way is to draw drills at that depth, into which the roots should be placed, sprinkling a little coarse sand into the drill previous- to placing them in it. Jonquils succeed well in a soil similar to the anemone. Thoy should : bo planted sin or 6in apart and about 3in deop. As jonquils do not flower so well the first season after planting, they may bo left in the ground for three, four* or even fivo years, without being taken up. Bulbous irises flower better when planted early—say, in February or March—than those planted in spring or late autumn; the late-planted se'dom flower well, if at all, the season following. Bulbous irises are not lifted annually, once in three or Jour years being considered the better practice. Should be planted 6in apart and 2in to 3in deep. Narcissi are very popular bulbs, and grow well in most soils and situations. As thoy do not flower well the season after planting, they aro seldom taken up oftener than once in four or five yeans, and that only to separate the bulbs which they have made. The earlier in the month they are planted the better. Liliums are a beautiful class, which deserve a place in every flower garden, and will grow in almost all soils and situations in the flower borders, shrubberies, and some even under the shade of tree?.. . They should' he planted from now to September, but the bulbs (should not long remain out of the ground, as it is bad practice to keep them dry like other bulbs. They delight in a pood rich loamy soil, mixed with very rotten cow manure. Plant about 4in deep, ai:d leave them undisturbed for years. Give an annual top-dressing of some manure. AUTUMNAL FLOWERS. Lilium auratum, the queen of the lily family, is at the present time flowering beautifully :n many gardens. The golden-rayed blooms lOin or more across emiting a "delightful fragrance is always attractive, and especially so at this season, when most of our otner favourites are on the warw. Lilium speciosim in seevral varieties have been flowering for some time, and are mak-

ing a brave show. Dahlias, gladioli, roses, and many others which generally look shabby at this season are, owing to the mild weather we are experiencing, fiowaring freely, and keeping up a good display in the beds and borders, and with the absence of frost promise to continue for some time yet. Chrysanthemums are late, and it will be some time yet before they show colour FIGS. In some few gardens about this district fig trees produce fairly good crops of fruit, which ripen during February and' March; but this being an unusually cold summer, they have failed to ripen properly. The fig is a native of Asia, and naturalised in Europe, where it is a deciduous tree growing to a considerable size. In tropical countries it is -evergreen. The fig is supposed to have been introduced into England in 1525 bv Cardinal Pole, and some of these still exist. In fig countries it.n cultivation is a matter of great importance to the inhabitants, who derive a considerable profit by exporting the fruit, in the well known* form that it is met with in shops. The fig will succeed in any light garden soil, but the bottom must Da perfectly dry, and the root run restrie'ed. It tho roots are allowed full freedom they will grow too luxuriantly to produce a good crop or ripen properly. Tho pear crop in North Otago has been a heavy one, and in many gardens the ground under the trees is covered with fruit which has dropped, as it would not pay to gather This week prospects are a little brighter, and' a market may be got for the later varieties. A friend' of mine consigned a number of cases to Dunedin a few weeks ago, and the result of the venture was Is per case of 51b after paying freight, commission, etc.-, Others have fared no better, so that the planting of ea-rly pears except for home use is not to be commended.

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https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/OW19120417.2.52

Bibliographic details

Otago Witness, Issue 3031, 17 April 1912, Page 12

Word Count
1,341

HORTICULTURAL NOTES. Otago Witness, Issue 3031, 17 April 1912, Page 12

HORTICULTURAL NOTES. Otago Witness, Issue 3031, 17 April 1912, Page 12