FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

Otago Witness, Issue 3029, 3 April 1912, Page 73

FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

A NEW MATERIAL. (From Oub Own Correspondent.) LONDON, February 16. The name is rnorc awe-inspiring than is the reality—the former is "gauz.e-eponge" ; tiie latter is just, like a piece of Turkey towelling:, glorified, perhaps, but Turkey towelling nevertheless. This fabric is a February novelty. The background of the now towelling is gauze or chiffon, and upon this the white towel-thread Btands up in a raised design, imitative of a lace pattern.

Picture a black ninon and satin dross, the former veiling the latter, having as the most prominent trimming a very wide band of "gauze-eponge" midway on the skirt where it was So cut as to describe very deep Vandyke points, and all round the edges of these points the towelling thread had worked its way in an untidy looseness from its background. This constituted on© of its charms, and a band, 6in in depth, occupied the middle of the skirt all the way round; in rather a narrower edition, but still cut in sharp Vandyke points, it embraced each sleeve as a cuff, and appeared again on the bodice beneath a rounded guimne of ninon. Not only is it made in white, for the tailors are going to use this stuff for some of their spring suits, and for the trimmiiig of others, the colours including dark blue, rich rod, sapphire, cobalt, browns, and greens, and there is some idea that the towel-surfaced fabric, with a foundation possessing more substance than chiffon, will supplant in popularity the ratine v. hich is not so new. Towelling designs aro applied to smooth cloths, and a strip of gauze-eponge is considered very appropriate for the petticoat or underdress of a costume made of fabrics far more sumptuous. The towelling, as an early acquaintance, is not particularly attractive, yet it can be made to look, at a distance, quite ewecuve. ror mourning—wiucn is now, of course, worn in Court, circles again —a new edition of dull chiffon is on the market; it has a slightly crinkly surface, suggestive of crepe. —Two Views.— Seen from the front it, is a crossover fichu arranged in ample folds about the shoulders; crossing at the waist, the ends disappear. Naturally one takes a walk round to the back to see the destination of the portions which should fie. Then comes the surprise, for the entire back of the figure is covered with a wrap shaped exactly as a chasuble, which gradually narrows off to a sharp point right away at the edge of the skirt, behind where a pendant tassel falls as a finish. This dual-dutied

garment is quite the latest, and it shows how the ficliu idea is returning to favour, and to what extent it may bo developed. The ends which did not show at all in front were carried round the waist and tied in a short bow, whicii was covered by the chasuble back of what suggested so forcibly an ecclesiastical vestment. The model was of taffetas of golden hue, shot wtih peacock, and it was bordered all round witli an embroidery worked by hand in silks of gold and peacock, and lined with gauze of similar shot. There were no ruches and no fringes, just a plain edge all round. This type of wrap is ono of the surprises of the moment, but presently we shall not be taken aback by anything the fichu may choose to do, for the picturesque drapery of the bodice is one of the definite fixtures of coming fashions, and many experiments will be made to render one different from all the others. Something of the same idea was carried out in black chantiliy of the most delicate and transparent design. It was in reality a flounce. Seen from the front it took the form of revers which began rather narrowly from mside the waistbelt, as the shoulders were neared so the lace grew wider; over the shoulders the effect was that of a cape, but the two pieces remained separate until they were gradually joined together at the waist at the back, leaving a graceful V-shape in between; from below the waistline the joined sides formed a coat-tail back, which finally assumed a round shape near the edge of the dress, which was of white f-atin, the upper part of whose bodice was of gathered white ninon, guimpe and sleeves being nil in one, and the sleeves gracefully gauged on the outside of the arm; the hem of the skirt was protected with a band of black velvet, and a folded band of the same encircled the waist, with two short sash ends falling down one side of the front, steel beads being added to brighten the velvet. This is a thoroughly up-todate example of a smart gown of white and black, suitable for afternoon wear. It is very generally anticipated that a

The executive of the New Zealand Alliance (says the Post) passed a resolution expressing grave alarm at tho possibility of a j jrower being included in the Cabinet, and j intered its emphatic protest thereto. '

The Auckland Harbour Board decided on March 24, on tho recommendation of tho engineer, to make an all-round increase of Id por hour in tho vrago of labourers in its employ.

taffetas fichu-cape will be a. feature of many a spring dress, the cape being a. movable one. made to follow lines and to form folds which shall become the figure, the general outlining border being a pinked-out ruche of the silk. The Magyar sleeve continues a prominent feature, but its rather trying effect is quite obliterated when covered by any sort of fichu cape or fichu drapery. —Another Change.— So accustomed have we grown to the rounded guimpe of net or lace, made for the most part quite plainly and well-fitting, that we are apt to stand and gaze long at any threatened change. Newer by far than the guimpe is the suggestion of filling in the space with handkerchief folds, which can be brought quite snugly to the base of the throat, and if the wearer bo so minded a high collar band can readily be added, the lower half sleeves to bo either slightly gathered or to bo plain in keeping with the neckband. All round the lower part of the guimpe the bodice or blouse will be given a finish of braid or scalloped or vandyked lace, often so deep as to take in a good parr, of the upper arm, calling to mind very forcibly the orthodox pierrot collar, with its sharp points. Scallops an< 7 points and battlements are all preferred for bold effects instead of edges that ar< indefinite. Sailor collars of lace and embroidered lawn frequently have a. scalloped border, and they are of dimensions which add considerably to the breadth of the figure. There are smaller collars of the Peter Pan variety which clasp the throat and do everything possible to discourage the barren expanse of a long, uncovered neck. In fact, there is a well-marked tendency to make blouses and bodices with a high coilar-band of lace or fine net inlet with fine insertion, and the appearance is much more finished than with the decollette style. One finds that practically all the new blouses have a collar band, finished round the ten with a line of coloured silk or velvet, and also one sees a tendency for the transparent collar to arrange itself in slight folds as it surrounds the throat; there is a high support at the back to keep the collar in place., and as the net used is so fine, the folds are not at all clumsy. So marked is the tendency to return to the hiarh collar that now, for wearing with the docollette-blouse, it. is growing quite the custom for a high band of net to l>e bought, with half-sleeves to correspond ; a short time ago one had to buy a guimpe-yoke. neckband, and sleeves nil united; but now a set consists of sleeves and collar. The collar is fixed to the collarless blouse by press fastenings, or kept in place by a tape attachment under the blouse; the sleeves keep in place by means of elastic threaded through the top. If the Peter Pan finish, or any other kind of collar is wanted, this can quite well bo worn in addition to the upstanding- band. The improvement is very considerable.

Various devices are beine introduced to bring about the return of fulness, and now quite .in o'd-fflshioned type of blouse is brought to light as a "new" model. In a sense it is new, inasmuch as the yoke piecewhich stretches across the figure back and front, making a : quare. is carried riprht down the sleeve in one piece. But to the lower edee of this voke. the silk or satin or mousseline :'s fulled on. The pattern is not a stylish one, though it is in a. sense convenient, for the fastening is made all the way down the front, from neck to waist, by a line of buttons and buttonholes. —Scope for the Tnilor. — ICaeh season he has more liberty. During the coming spring ho will have more than he ever had before. He can choose materials which once were the province alone of the dressmaker, he can turn out styles which once would have been thought frivolous for him to tackle; he can make coatees that are more like fussy dress-bodices, and shirts which show double and triple tunics and underskirts of material contrast. No colour combination seems incongruous as it onco would have done, and as the spring advances we shall doubtless see much that is dainty. With white and black the tailor conjures cleverly, until all the fashionable think they must have at least one such costume—white hopsack or oatmeal cloth, with its black velvet details and its black patent-leather bolt. Smart such a costume undoubtedly is, hut it is a season old. Something different is needed by those who like to be in advance of the multitude. For such a one the following suit will bo an attraction: —Neatly-cut tailor-made coat of face cloth in mignonette green, with revers, oollar, and cutis of tine cloth of champagne tint, fastening down the front with a procession of buttons —cream-centred ringed round with- green. The skirt is of the lighttinted cloth, fastened down the front with a procession of buttons to match those on the coat, and protected round the edge with a " petticoat " of the green. Undeniably a smart and taking costume, rendered still further complete by its corsage of cream satin veiled with green ninon; the skirt is carried up on to the corsage, back and front, in two tapering points, tho buttons beginning in between these narrowing finishes. A costume of this description would not suit the multitude; so much' the better for the favoured few who can without hesitation adopt something out of the common. There is hardly a doubt that a "chemise" corsage will remain a feature of the spring suite, for tine corsage in harmony with tho costume is far more attractive than the more ordinary blouse of something quite odd in fabric and hue. Part of a suit of violet velvet with largo white collar and cuffs was a satin corsage half of white and half of violet; the white formed the upper portion, the violet the lower, this being cut with a scalloped edge which stretched across the figure back and front—nearly always do we find backs and fronts made to correspond with one another in theso days. Buttons are prominent, in all sizes

and shapes and of every kind of material. Sometimes they are used to provide tho trimming contrast; in any case they are a trimming even if they match the material. But this they seldom do. There are buttons of ivory standing up like sugar-cones, there are buttons of dyed horn standing erect and bearing the imprint of the mould, looking like miniature puddings; there are round buttons of redish-pink horn which are something like unripe berries. Buttons of jet are still wanted, some of them as large and flat as a crown-piece; there are large plaques of ivory bearing delicate carved figures and other designs, and there are buttons of metal embedded with gems of colour which sparkle and glitter. Buttons have got to be used, large or small, in imposing lines, and it does not matter whether these processions place themselves at the back or at the front, down tho middle or down the side. A new position is down the entire left side of the back, alike of coat and skirt, those on tho skirt being used as fastening. While so many of the tailor-made coats are made with never, the fastening is on one side of the coat, almost shoulder-high, and as the buttons on tho skirt have to correspond, iY\c line is a very long and unbroken one. Such a coat, perhaps of navy serge, will have its one rever turned back covered with crefon of a design so bold that one single flower occupies all the space available; if of cream or white cloth or serge, the solitary turn-back piece will for a certainty be of black velvet; sometimes the buttons will be of black velvet, but more often of cream bone, pet over supposed buttonholes made of a piping of satin. A Triple Allianoe.— Some people will like it, many will not. For the latter the choice, still 'knows no variety-limit. It. is the latest edition of the handbag to which I refer. From a bar of some 12in in length throo separate bags depend. The middle one is tho largest, the one either side of it half the size. Each one has an opening independent, of th others. Doubtless the shopper will find th, notion rather hand'y, for tho middle bag will comfortably accommodate small par OeLs. One of the smaller compartment will take tho purse and handkerchief, th other will be useful for lots of smal things, including very likely an opera glan, ready for the matinee. Tho triple bag is made of suede in numerous colours, generally fulled on to tlie frame, and the accepted handle still is the plaited silken cord of colour corresponding with tho suede. But for dress occasions it is not at, all likely to eclipse tho beaufifullyrnado and smart-looking handbag of crushed morocco or suede, made with its sharp pointed' envelope flap outlined with a beading of gold. Colours of leather goods are in ever-increasing variety, and the departments devoted to these grow more fascinating month by month. General.— People who use a great deal of Chinese and Japanese silk are locking for the arrival of considerable supplies of the former make hero presently, as there will probably bo a surplus in China, and cheaper silk here ought to be tho sequel. If this does happen it will be brought about mainly as one curious effect of the Chinese revolution. A returned Englishman tells us that the reform movement is spreading very much among the well-to-do classes of tho country, and in addition to forswearing their pig-tails, tho Chinos} are giving up their former dress in favour of clothes copied from the West. Silk garments which have been worn always by the wealthy Chinese are being replaced by Yorkshire woollens cut in European style. As a result large quanti-.ies of the silk will find a way into tho world's market, and cause not only a drop in price, but also add considerably to supplies in Europe and elsewhere. Many of the newest household nece«sities, such as duchesse slips, sideboard slips, fray cloths, and so on, made of very fine linen, have as the chief decorative feature large inset plaques of strong net worked in a design of female figures. One such, showing two girls fencing, was the centre piece of -i cushion. The ends of a sideboard clot!; were finished with insets repre.S'nting a Wattcau beauty admiring herself in a hand-mirror. Another showed a Gainsborough beauty in feather-trimmed hat. All the stitchery is, of course, in white, and tho work is wonderful.