CHRISTMAS TIME IN ROTORUA

Otago Witness, Issue 2808, 8 January 1908, Page 87

CHRISTMAS TIME IN ROTORUA

There is a spot upon the surface of our globe-y-our ever-narrowing, familiar globe — in which the conditions prevailing at Christmas time are probably unique in character 1 . So peculiar a combination,',, of climate, scenery, and surroundings can scarce be found elsewhere. "While in many another clime curtains are drawn 'and shutters fastened to keep out driving sleet; while merry skaters glide over frozen pools ; while in another region a fiery sun may blaze upon a, desert waste, -at Rotorua we find a mavellous combination. There is cextain, however, to be plenty of heat, whatever other element may be wanting. But those leagues of virgin forest, that exquisite expanse of lake— scerenely, beautifully blue — that fresh verdure* the growth of trees, the shade spots in the lovely gardens — these all breathe of coolness and . fragrance in the midst of the perpetual' simmering, bubbling, boiling, steaming, spouting, which seem the result of the stirrings of Apollyon's own cooking-pots. In the month of December in Rotorua *t is well to don the coolest of garments and to wear hate which give a Teal shade. It is midsummer, and we need all the shelter possible. At midday the landscape sniminers in the heat, and we are glad to forego expeditions, except by water, and to enjoy the shade of the spreading trees in the beautiful gardens. The flower beds display a wealth of summer bloom. There are many gardeners at work, despite the heat, and 1 nothing hae ■ been spared to render the grounds beautiful. We might forget the peculiarities of our surroundings and deem that we were residing in aW ordinary Eden, but for that all-pervading subtle odour, and that in all directions, wherever we stray from the lawns ana flower beds we see boiling water spouts or gaze into cauldrons of heaving, bubbling, steaming, wickojd brown mud. One becomes accustomed to the odour of sulphur, and we even fancy that it is healthy and invigorating; but each freshly-discovered crater 6eems to contain a new horror to a vivid imagination. One fancies some savage chief of former days remorselessly casting his victims into the bubbling cauldrons of thick, horrible mud, which would leave no trace and tell no tale. On the lawns fashionable people promenade ; young and old play- croquet, tennis, or bowls; and ttie scene is very gay and attractive. The tea house is crowded with visitors, Maori waitresses in cap and 1 apron move among the guests, and chat and laughter resound. Motor cars flash long the wide drives, andi bath chairs, with their occupants, are slowly propelled by the sanatorium nurses. /The band plays in the rotunda, and thie. click of balls sounds cheerily from, $he lawns. The Maoiis abou^ Botorua still retain some of their earlier customs. They, often.

sell fruit about the town, put up in baskets of their own making. At Christmas time cherries are in season, and the ripe, reel fruit is very plentiful. There are cherry groyes "on Mokoia Island and at the Hamu* rana Spring, apparently still untouched by the blights which work havoc with the fruiti elsewhere-. •

The H&murana Spring exhibits one of those beautiful contrasts which make tha Rotorua district appear unique. Unlike its neighbours, the water of this beautiful spring is of icy coldness, as well as of crystal clearness. It bubbles up from unknown depths, /and ~ flows like a river through a sulphur-lined ohaonel into the lake. The tints exhibited by the bed and by the water weeds of this exquisite channel are indescribably beautiful, ranging from clearest sapphire to every shade of purple, Sri much did 'we hear of the beauty of th.<> spring that we determined to makfe an eif pedition across the lake and se© it for ourj. selves.

The air is balmy; the sky is cloudless; the blue waters of the lake invite usj^a gentle breeze day after day ruffles the sur^ face of' the water. -Why not hire a boat and sail tover -to the " other side?" Th^ coastline opposite is outlined in misty blue, but surely we can reach it if we make an earlj start. Mokoia • Island, home of rqmanoe, rises / from the lake about halfway, ' across, and will make a famous halting place. No sooner said than arranged, and 7.30 next morning saw us at the jetty ready, for a start to be made. " Do you see yon blue mountain with ohei tree . growing on top?" - All eyes are strained to study the distant, shore. "Yes!" "No!" "Yes!", — "Steer straight for the one tree on the top of the blue mountain. _ The spring's at the foot."

So we steered for the distant blue. The surface of the lake was dancing in the morning sunshine, a fresh breeze filled the sail, and we bowled merrily along, .the sweet air filling our nostrils and exhilarating our spirits.

As we drew nearer to -Mokoia. the inter-i est. became intense. The growth upon the island beoame_ more clear, and native bushl and flax bending over met the water gentlylapping the coast. We skirted the leftf side, where tiny islets, each with its flax and palm-like cabbage-tree, cluster, and; sheltered "close to the shore. We "were looking for a landing-place on which to find a! footing whence tnose disposed might enjoyi a swim in the, limpid depths. , Presently, a suitable place was spied and the merry" party scrambled^ ashore. Bathing garments formed part of the cargo; ' and in a fewi moments dolphins and, mermaids -were disporting themselves in the beautiful soffc clear water which 'keeps a delightful temperature with, a waijnth ..which ■ makes one suspect the neighbourhood., of a hot spring. Imagine the delightful dressing-toom — soft; greenery, thick overhead and around, forming an, ideal lady's bower, .thick" moss underfoot, , exquisite small ' ferns twinkling on the banks, and through the interstices in the foliage glimpses •of the_ blue lake and distant shore. The lunch baskets were now; opened, and' after refreshments had been enjoyed, the Dry. of "All aboard!" brought the travellers at onee 1 to the boat. y , And now we steered straight for the one tree on the blue mountain-top, and great was the argument concerning it, everyone offering a different ' opinion. The breeze fell and the sail flapped on the mast. Our; crew took to the ( oars, and laboured long and hard, with many interjections. HoweVer, the coastline grew perceptibly nearer* but evermore — More weary seemed th« soa, weary the oar, Weary the wandering leagues of barren foamY

Oh, for a breeze ! We whistled long inf vain;- Hut presently she 'comes — a ripple stirs the water; up with the canvas., Hurrah ! she oatches it, and we glide, delightfully along. Our goal "is near.* It is past midday, but summer days are long, _and eventually we land and make for a" spring. Barefoot we travelled the .co^st, wading in the delicious tepid water. But hallo ! what is this? The water is suddenly icy, cold — an unimaginable cold. The water lis clear and pure as erjstal. Hurrah ! we have reached the spring at last. The [ Hamurana Spring bubbles up unknown volcanic depths. It is icy /cold! and crystal clear, and its force is such, that metal will not sink, but is borne .up on its surface. The spring is surrounded! with lovely scenery. .All kinds of beauti-; ful ferns and native bushes droop over i<> and find reflections' in its clear mirror ,\ The waters' flow unceasingly away through; their sulphur channel until they reach an<| mingle with- the lake. It is a spot ofi exquisite beauty, and awe-inspiring fancies cross the spectator's mind. What if ono should be drawn by fairies into those mysterious depths? No human eye-couldl ever behold the lost one m6re. Do not tempt Providence by any rash act, but let us away, though one would fain lingerin a spot of so much charm.— Auckland Herald.