DR. HECTOR'S EXPLORING EXPEDITION INTO THE INTERIOR.

Otago Witness, Issue 585, 14 February 1863, Page 8

DR. HECTOR'S EXPLORING EXPEDITION INTO THE INTERIOR.

(PROS* THE SPECIAL CORRKSPOSDENT OF THE DAIItf TIMES.) Oamp, South Shore of Wanaka Lake, 24th January, 1863. I take the first opportunity 1 have had since starting from Dunedin to forward you an account of my proceedings up to the present date. You will observe that the distance we have already travelled is upwards of 200 miles, so that a minute description of the country would exceed the bounds of a letter communication. I shall confine myself principally to ',the road from Oamaru to the Wanaka Lake, and to the few settlements along its traverse. I arrived at Oamaru on the 6th, and awaited the arrival of the remainder of Dr. Hector's party. My trip by the steamer afforded me no facilities to form decisive opinions on the harbors along the coast, but from 'what I could glean from persons familiar with them, there is a great desire on the part of the inhabitants at the Waikouaiti, at Moeraki and at Oamaru, that piers sufficiently stable to resist the heavy ocean surf, should be erected at these places. At Waikouaiti, one is to be projected between Jones's and the Government township, but I fear that its exposure to the N.E. will be far from desirable, although the strong prevalent wind from the S.W. can be productive of but little inconvenience. It was midnight when the steamer arrived at Moeraki, so that I was unable to see the " Roads" ; the general opinion, however, is that this place is the best adapted for the construction of a pier. My detention at Oamaru enabled me to obtain more precise information on this point respecting it, and considering the vast importance which this town has assumed in a comparatively -short space of time, it is really of paramount importance that some improvement of this kind be made to the harbor, in order to render it accessible by the small craft which trade here. If I were to be allowed a choice for the erection of a pier at Oamaru, I should first take advantage of the natural reef which stretches from Wambroo point into the sea in the direction of the prominent point of land which forms the northern boundary of the Bay. Along this reef a Breakwater might be constructed, and in rear of it a pier run out which would be%rotected from the violence of the surf.

At present, when the steamer arrives, she anchors at about one half mile from the shore. and a surf boat puts off for passengers and luggage. It often happens, however, that the surf is so violent as to prevent the boat leaving the land. But even when not obstructed, and when her cargo is landed safely, it is generally accomplished at the sacrifice of articles either being saturated or even destroyed altogether. The freight of landing goods in this manner is enormous, amounting to £1 per ton. The town of Oamaru is prettily situated, and with its numerous white stone buildings dotting the hills, and fine level road extending along the shore, has all the appearance of a miniature Brighton. Behind the town the country is undulating, with fine pasture, and in many parts the soil is well fitted for agricultural purposes. For about three miles out into the country, except in one locality, the total absence of the "tutu" is remarkable, and flax, so common in the environs of Dunedin, occurs only in very small patches, and these at considerable distances the one from the other. The hills iv the neighborhood of the town are composed of limestone, and a ouarry, the property of Mr Ilutchinson, is oeing actively worked. The lime is almost pure, and brings the high price of 8s per bushel. In this limestone marine fossils occur en masse, and in parts t 1 c stone is so very crystalline as to resemble soft marble. Large masses of gravel overlie the limestone, and if the shingle plains were not of themselves sufficient to the construction aud macadamising the road, might be advantageously used for that purpose. The entire absence of wood for building and fuel is one of the greatest drawbacks to Oamaru. The timber which is used here for building and fencing is imported, while that employed as fuel is drayed from Otepopo, a distance of fourteen miles.- In some localities the inhabitants have planted the Blue Gum, and it appears to thrive well. Considering the enormous expense attendant on draying wood and the high price of coal, it is a matter of surprise why the gum plantations are not more general. The only check to the rearing of this tree, is frost, and if the plant survive three winters it is then sufficiently hardy to resist the cold. Doubtless some sheltered spots might be found, which.could be used as nurseries, and which would ultimately prove of great value to the inhabitants.

We were delayed at Oaraaru until the Bth making preparations for the start, and on the evening of this date encamped at a distance of five miles from the town, close to a bridge ! which is the recognised boundary of the Oajnarn and Waitaki Plains. The whole country twrdering the road on either hand is delightM, a large portion of it being under cultivation. In spite of the unusual dryness of the season, the crops appeared in excellent condition — potatoes of the finest quality are raised with the least possible labor, and in short there are no impediments along the whole of the plain to mar the efforts of the husbandman. The road from Oamaru to the Boundary Bridge and for many miles beyond the latter is a fair rival with the best turnpike roads in England. The traffic along it at this season of the year is very great — tons of wool on bullock drays are continually being met. The stations in the upper country consign their fleecy harvests* to a large depot in Oamaru, and the return drays carry flour and other necessaries from the stores to the interior. The Waitaki plain stretches from the Boundary Bridge to the banks of the Wataiki river. This is a distance of about fifteen or sixteen miles by the road. The plain isAnposed of shingle and bordered to^the we&ward by a terrace of limestone varying hi altitude from 100 to 150 feet. In many places it is ■wretchedly sterile, and as a whole can be only available for pasture lands. Along the base of the limestone terrace, however, there is a little arable land, and the occupants of the out-stations grow vegetables iv sufficient quantity for their own consumption. At about twelve miles from Oamaru, there is an out-station belonging to Mr Filleul, situated at the entrance ol a gully in the limestone terrace, and I was informed that coal could be got at no great distance up the gully. Accordingly I visited the place, but I found it to be of very inferior quality. It is a lignite whioh, when burnt, leaves a debris similar to wood ash. I have seen similar coal usefully employed in North America. The peculiarity of the North American coal to which I refer is, that it requires continual blasting to obtain a flame, and I presume from the appearance of the coal on the Waitaki plain, that it is in this point analogous. A very excellent building stone in fact, the b«tt I have seen since my arrival in the coumfy, might be obtained at this place in almost unlimited quantity. They have employed it at this place in the construction of a cistern for washing sheep, and as the whole of the sheep-washing apparatus is said to be new to the colony, I shall as briefly as jwssible give you a description of it. The cistern 18 about eight feet deep, and provided with an inlet for clean water and outlet for waste or dirty— both being in action at the same time. Above the cistern is a sta^e enclosed ou all sides except one by which twenty sheep can enter; the stage is iv connection with a lever which tilts it up from its horizontal position, and rolls lie animals over au inclined plane into ike water. After they have swam around the cistern, and received a few plunges under water from the shepherd, a door is tf &c cisttjn w aa ia«

cline into what is called the drying paddock, and when the latter is full, the' whole of the washed sheep are turned out again on the plain. In four hours I saw 950 sheep washed by this means. The Waitaki river, in this part of its course, is exceedingly rapid, its current progressing at the rate of at least nine miles per hour ; in- ' deed, its rapidity is so great that the jingling noise of the shingle which the current carries with it, is distinctly heard above the roar of the river. The plains in the immediate vicinity of its banks are cut up by numerous long lagoons, which have been formed during the season of high waters, and owing to the accumulations of deposit are often dangerous to cattle and horses. Even in this dry season my horse narrowly escaped being mired in an attempt to reach the brink of the river. At seventeen miles from Oamaru, the Waitaki receives a tributary creek known as the Owomoko, which is the boundary between the runs of Mr Filleul and Messrs Borton and M'Master. It is enclosed between high precipitous slate hills, and has no alluvial flats on either bank. I met two miners who had been prospecting up towards its source ; but although they had obtained goid, they said there was such difficulty in getting a "bottom," that they had determined to abandon it in the hope of getting gold somewhere in the main stream.

From the Owomoko Creek the road passes along a level tract ot country on the right bank of the Waitaki, and at a distance of about eight miles from the former traverses the Maraenua a second tributary to the main river. At its mouth there is a small cluster of houses situated in a pretty locality surrounded by tastefully laid out gardens and small plantations of blue gum. The valley of the Maruenua for some distance before its waters mingle with those of the Waitaki is wide open and fiat, and appears in every way suited for cultivation. The river itself rises occasionally very high, and where the road crosses it ought to be bridged. Eight miles still further on, and the road traverses the Otakik Creek which joins the Waitaki, where this latter river pursues a most serpentine course. As viewed from a distance the Waitaki has here a very curious appearance. It occupies a flat of from two and a half to three miles broad, and assumes the character of a group of small lakes. This is caused by the river cutting the flat up into small grassy islets, while in its impetuous course, its current sweeps the softer material, of which the plain is composed, before it. From this point on to a small creek on which an out-station of Mr M'Lean's is built, the plain is a counterpart of portions of the Waitaki plain between the Boundary bridge at Oamaru, and Mr Filleul's last out - station. It might be regarded as proverbial for its sterility. At this station of M'Lean's, however, the plain assumes a greater elevation, and the pasturage again becomes rich and nutritious. The obstacles which the hills offered to the construction of the road in this part have been mitigated by judicious cuttings, and excepting the quantity of boulders distributed in the neighbourhood of the creek, nothing else occurs to render vehicle travelling laborious. The mountain scenery between the Otakik Creek and M'Lean's outstation is very pictuiesque, and iv striking contrast to ths mountains previously passed Domett's Mountain, towering to the altitude of G.OOO feet, and the most prominent peaks in the range of which it forms part, have not yet entirely lost their winter coats of snow ; so that we have a pretty good indication as to the frigid hospitality we shall receive from our mountain friends still further to the westward. We encamped at M'Lc-an'.s out-starion on the evening of the 14th, and during the night were apprised of a most melancholy accident which happened to Mr M-Murdo." and which we have learnt since has unlortunatdy proved fatal. It appears that this gentleman was assisting in bre.iking-in a young horse, and while walking behind it, and in the act of striking the animal with a stick, he received a tremendous blow from the hind feet on his chest, which caused instantaneous death. One of the men employed by the deceased started immediately to Oamaru for a surgeon, iv hope that the case was not so serious, but hearing on the road that our camp was not far distant, he came upon us at about 11 p.m., and solicited Dr Ilector to accompany him to M'Murdo's station. As we have said, however, medical aid was of no avail— death ensued instantly. Two days after the sad calamity, there being no coroner nearer than Oamaru— -a distance of 82 miles from M'Murdo's station— Dr Hector took it upon himself to authorise interment.

This absence of a coroner is only one of the inconveniences, to which settler's in this part of the country. have to submit; there are others equally worthy the attention of the authorities, as for instance — there are no magistrates, no justices of the peace, and no constabulary nearer than Oamaru ; and when we take into consideration the Inrge traffic at present on this road, and the rapid increase of the same in connection with the gold fidds, we cannot fail to sec the desirability of appointing such functionaries in this part of the country ; farther, I believe this is the only one of the main roads to the interior on which no constable is to be seen.

From the creek on which M'Lean's out station is built, the valley of the Waitaki gradually narrows until the ridge on the Otago side of the river approaches the mountains on that of the Canterbury ; it is the point where the stream cuts its channel through the schist formation. The road from this place on to the Otamitita winds among a succession of small hills which skirt the higher terrace behind them, aud becomes a little more difficult to travel, owing chiefly to a succession of boulders. It then leaves the valley of the Waitaki, and passing through the Ahuriri Pass, strikes the river of that name at the mouth of a small creek which is tributary to it. The country in the neighborhood of the Otamitita is probably the most picturesque on the road — Ben More rising above all the other mountains in the vicinity, and looking out on the plains of the Waitaki on the one side, and those of the Ahuriri on the other, would alone be a fine landscape ; and if to this we add the shepherds' flocks and huts at intervals dotting the scene, the tout ensemble would result in a picture sufficiently seductive to lead numbers now pining In the over -populated cities of the old world to change their places of abode, and find a happy home iv the yet large unsettled portions of" Otago. After following the valley of the Ahuriri for 14 miles, the road crosses Kobin son's Saddle, by far the most severe ascent and descent on the whole distance, and which might be easily remedied by cutting. There is also a creek at Gillies' accommodation house, which the road traverses, depressed a considerable depth below the plains, and which might be rendered more practicable by the same means. From the Saddle, the descent is into the M'Kenzie country, an extensive pkin stretching into the Canterbury Province as far as the eye can reach, and bounded on either hand by high mountain?. At about 6 miles along the plain, from Robinson's Saddle, and at about 3 miles from the margin of the river is Walker's station, pleasantly situated on the borders of a small stream flowing to the main river. From where the road first strikes the Ahuriri, right up to the "Gorge," or the true commencement of the "Lindis Pass," the land can never be any other than pastoral, there being no depth of available soil for agricultural purposes. It is curious to remark, also, that the whole country between the Otamitita and the Gorge is entirely free of the tutu plant ; and oat-grass, which is not seen between Oamaru and the Otamitita, grows in abundance between that river and the Gorge. The height of land is reached by leading &c Afcwiii at the poiat wtose %\^

Longslip Creek joins it. and following up the creek to its source. The ascent is very gentle, and with a small amount of trouble at the foi-ds in the valley of this creek, the whole road from Oamaru to the height of land, I have no hesitation in saying, will be one of the best in the Province, and, if necessary, a tramway might be constructed with but small outlay. The elevation of the height of land above the plains of the Ahuriri is about 1,000 fc-et, above that of the valley of the Lindis 1,/>OO feet, and above that of the plains of the Clutha about 2,000 feet. The mountains which border the right hank of Longslip Creek are the northern extremity of the Duns tan range, while those on the left retain the name in common with the creek. They are composed of slate, with a large admixture of quartz. The day following that of our arrival at the height of land being Sunday, we halted, and on Monday, the 19th, commenced our descent to the S.W. in the direction of the course of the Passburn Creek. The descent to the westward is much more rapid than that from the height of land to the' eastward, so that laden drays coining from the westward to the plains on the eastern side of the height of land will find the road considerably more tedious than those going in the opposite direction. The Passburn is crossed twice in about two miles from the Saddle, when the mountains on either hand recede from one another, and leave a small grassy plain extending in a northerly direction to the base of a prominent spur of the Longslip Mountains. In this plain there is an out-station of Mr M'Lean's, and at a crossing in the creek a cutting in the banks to facilitate the traverse. From this point the Passburn is traversed , 12 times in the distance of 5 miles. These fords are only a few yards the one from the other, and where they occur the work ou the road has been very considerable, and the cuttings judiciously chosen. I fear that this portion of the Pass will be very bad in winter, but if properly drained it will be as practicable as during the summer months. The whole road to the west of the Saddle has been constructed to admit only one vehicle, so that if a dray going in one direction should chance to meet another coming in the opposite, there is no possibility of passing;; and, even worse,! there are portions of the road where there is not sufficient room to admit of turning a dray. It is evident that this ought to be remedied, and no doubt, when the road undergoes improvement, this fact will not escape the notice of the Road authorities. Another difficulty, also, has to be contended with during winter in this part, and which, too, might be easily overcome. It is owing to the slope of the roud towards the creek, and the alternations of the melting and freezing of its miry surface When the ice forms, the road is only passable at the risk of cattle and drays sliding off it into the creek. By making the slope towards the mountain base, instead of from it, this is at once remedied.

The Passbum joins the Lindis river at a distance of seven tniies from the height of land, and at about a half mile above its junction, it receives a small tributary creek issuing from a gully in which considerable mining operations have been carried on. This gully is said to resemble Gabriel's Unity in its physical appearance, but I presume it has not yet yielded the same amount of wealth as the latter. It has, however, ail the indications of containing gold, and may sooner or later prove a valuable field.

Two miles below the junction of the Lindis aud Passburn the station belonging toM'L^au is reached. It is a*- the commencement of tlu small plain, through which the Lindis flows, before cutting its contracted channel through trie mountains to join the waters of the Clutha. The road follows the course of the liver, and iv the distance of only 10 mil s the stream is forded fourlee i times. There is not the slightest necessity to make so many lords on this river, the road if carried judiciously can avoid at least one half the present number. The scenery in the Gorge or contracted valley of the Lindis is very fine, and is peculiar as being the only real " Pass Scenery" we have _ met A large amount of skill has been exercised in making the road here — it is partly hewn and partly built, and presents but one obstacle, viz, that of being only sufficiently wide for one vehicle. The extremity of the Lindis Gorge merges ou a delightful plain where the river margin is bordered by scrub, and where the land on either bank is valuable for the purpose of settlement. The road leaves the river at this point, and passes over a succession of hills for about the distance of 5 mile«, when it descends into the magnificent plains of the Clutha. This a miles of country resembles much the West Taieri, but the road here is scarcely so difficult to travel as at that place. The aspect of such a vast quantity of arable land, with no homesteads, as the fertile plains of the Clutha present, is truly lamentable. I do not wish to appear to complain, but really one is apt to conclude, under the circumstance, that either the Government are lax in their efforts to throw open valuable land for agricultural purposes, or that the enterprise of the would-be settlers of Otago is far below the standard of that in other rising colonies The pasturage on these plains is excellent, and the depth of good soil is everywhere seen by the prevalence of spear grass,— a plant whose fusiform root strikes deep into the best soils.

At about 5 miles up 'the river from where the road meets it, there is a new ferry put on, and boards are raised on poles from the road to the crossing- place, indicating that it is the " nearest way to Fox's rush." A large number of miners are on the road for that place from the Dunstan. Ten miles still further, and the road crosses the Clutha at Mr Norman's ferry, close to where the Hawea joins the main stream. The current of the Clutha is rapid, probably averaging five miles per hour, and for a long distance along the river margin 1 observed the deepest water to be near its right bank. There is a great probability that the Clutha is capable of being navigable by small steamev3 iVorn the Upper Duns^aa Diggings to the Lake district from wheajje it originates, and if this capability could bs actually ascertained there is no telling the amount of convenience which would ultimately rebult from it.

At the Clutha ferry there are six 9tories and an accommodation house (the latter the property of Air Norman) in process of erection. All articles of food and other necessaries of course bring high prices — flour at 1 s per lb, mutton, at Wilkin's, Is 3d per lb, butter, at Hoy's, Is. Just now there is little doing at the ferry except for the stores on the river banks, and those up at the Cardrona Diggings. The Wanaka "Lake, our present encampment, is four miles from the ferry, and is close to Hoy's station. Our halt here has been necessarily a long one, as this is the last station whence provisions can be obtained. Dr Hector is having a small quantity of " pemican" prepared from mutton for use in the mountains. Pemican is made iv the following manner: — The meat is cut into very thin slices, and hung up in the sun to dry — it is then pounded and melted fat poured upon it. After being well mixed it is packed into a bag made of the hide, when it is then fit for use. There are many advantages in using pemican for travelling : one is that it is unnecessary to cook it, as it may be eaten raw, and, moreover, only a very little is sufficient to satisfy the keenest appetite.

■ Our camp has the appearance of a small butchery establishment at present, each man assiduously working in his special department ; one slicing meat, another drying, a third melting fat, and a fourth keeping "the kettles boiling," with an unlimited supply of wood. The Wanaka Lake is surrounded on all sides by mountains, excepting on its S.E. part, where a fine plain stretches to the banks of the. Cai&owt m<\ Clutiw ny^s, x&s pip* Im

evidently formed at one time a portion of the Lake, and is characterised by its well defined terrace levels. It, in conjunction with the mountains in tbe neighbourhood of the lake, govern the direction of the prevalent wind in this locality. During the day, the wind is invariably from the mountains towards the plain, or from north to south, while at night the opposite takes place, that is the wind blows from the plain towards the mountains. The cause of this is very apparent, the sun's rays heat the atmosphere over the plaius more rapidly than that surrounding the mountains, — the rarified air following the natural law, ascends, and the colder and denser air from the mountains rushes in to supply its place, thus causing the northerly wind by day. At night, the plain loses its high temperature as rapidly as it received it in the day, Avhile the Lake is very slow in parting with its temperature, — so that at last the temperature of the Lake atmosphere is higher than that of the plain, and the result is a current of air from the plain towards the Lake, or a wind from the South. In fact, the same thing takes place on an island in the ocean; and these phenomena are known as "laud and sea breezes."

The difference in the climate of places only a few miles apart, is very remarkable ; — for instance, at M'Lean's, situated on the Lindis river, 35 miles from this place, flax will not grow; while, in the garden at this place (Roy's Station) cucumbers, usually reared in hot-houses, are growing in the open air, and no amount of care is bestowed upon them. While speaking of the garden here, I shall add to my letter all the information I got respecting it.

Mr Norman, who owns it, informed me that last year he got 54 tons of potatoes from one half-acre of ground, and judging from this year's crop I can easily believe that the produce will not fall far short of that realised the last. Peas, French and broad beans, carrots, parsnips, cabbages, vegetable marrow, and cucumbers, are growing here excellently. Last year rock melons and pumpkins grew to great perfection — one pumpkin weighed 98 lbs and measured 6 feet in circumference. I wish it to be observed that no artificial means are employed to rear any of those delicate plants mentioned above ; the best idea of the softness of the climate and richness of the soil may be got from Mr Norman's own words, " 1 stick things in the ground," says he, " and they come up."

At about six miles from Roy's station there 13 a magnificent plain with a soil of rich black mould, and occupying an extent of some 4,000 acres. This, from its position on the Lake, its valuable soil, and its proximity to fine building timber on the Matukittiki river, is a good site for a settlement, in fact I know of none equal to it for many miles around. I find my communication is becoming rather longer than I had intended, but I trust that I shall have succeeded in giving some information as to the country from Oamaru to this place. At a future time the minuter details of my journey will be communicated to the public. On Tuesday next, we start for the terra incognita in the mountains, which, as viewed from here, appear very formidable barriers. At my next opportunity I shall not fail to communicate all possible information. I am, Sir, Yours faithfully, J. W. Sux-livax. The following list of accommodation houses, with their distances the one trom the other on the road from Oamaru to this place, may he of u.se to persons unacquainted with the road : — Miles, Fr.Mn Baker's Hotel, Oamaru, to Luter's Hotel, Boundary Bridge f>A From Luter's Hotel lo Fr oker'b Hotel .. 15" From Flicker's II >tel to LiUlu's Hotel, Maruenua, . . 10 From Little's to Chriitia»'s Hotel* 14 From Chiihtiau'^ Hotel to ("iidiii^'rf Hotel ... 11 Fnin Giddis's Hotel to Shean's Hotel, Olamitita , 13 From Shean's Hotel to Healy's Hotel 18 From Healy's Hotel to Millar's notol ... 12 Fro 1 Millar's Hot; 4to Norman's Hotel, Clutha 55 I.W. You will observe that from Millar's to Norman's, a distance of fifty-five miles, no accommodation house is met. There is, however, no difficulty in obtaining meals and a bed at M'Lean's Station, which is twenty miles distant from Millar's.