WINTER PRIMULAS

Otago Daily Times, Issue 23517, 4 June 1938, Page 24

WINTER PRIMULAS

FOR COOL AND WARM HOUSES For amateurs one of the best subjects for the greenhouse is undoubtedly the primula. Four distinct species are available —P. obconica, P. malacoides, P. sinensis and the yellow P. kewensis. The latter would probably be the least desirable, if it were not for the fact that there are no yellows in the colour-range of the first three. All can be had to bloom together, but P. malacoides comes to maturity somewhat early, so, in some cases, it may be to advantage to sow it a month later To get a good show from May onwards it is imperative to make an early start. Many amateurs find obconica and sinensis difficult to germinate, but if care is taken with essential detail there is really not much trouble. At the same time, a temperature of, say, 45deg. is not quite good enough. Near 60deg. is very much better, and the thermometer must be kept steady. A nice, friable soil, consisting of one part each of finely-riddled loam, leaf soil and sand, makes an admirable compost. Well drain —with crocks—the pots or pans, and next cover with a layer of the coarse riddlings. About one to two inches of the fine soil is really all that is needed; make it quite firm, but by no means hard, water well with a fine-rosed can, and, when drained, you may proceed to sow A COMMON INITIAL ERROR

One mistake which must be avoided at all costs is that of sowing the entire contents of a packet of seed in a single pan To try to prick out overcrowded seedlings is invariably disastrous for the plants, for in the process of pulling them apart the tiny fibrous roots are invariably damaged, and often with far-reaching results. Far better is it to sow thinly, so as to be able to lift each plant out undamaged. After sowing just covei the seed with a little of the fine soil, and place in a propagator or box, afterwards covering with a sheet of glass Primulas are rathei erratic in germination and there should be no hurry to disturb them if they come up sparsely—or to throw the pot away Some of the finest varieties are often a week or so later than the coarser sorts. When all are through a shelf near the glass is the best place for the pans. . , „ Some growers prefer to prick off into two-inch pots, but amateurs who are invariably away all day are better advised to use shallow boxes These are not so liable to dry out. and the soil keeps in a moi'e uniformly moist condition. Primulas, being moistureloving plants will at no time tolerate drying out. Neither do they like over-watering. The roots arc very fine, and like to ramble between small lumps of fibrous

loam, which can be used even in the three-inch pots to which they are moved from the boxes. An overwatered close soil is disastrous. T.he compost must be kept open and sweet at all times. . , It is far better to use a rosed can among the plants to create that humid atmosphere than systematically to overdo the roots- When leaves turn yellow, it is practically always this over or under-watering, and the grower should be able to decide which. AVOID A ROOT-BOUND CONDITION By the time the plants are settled in the three-inch pots in which a compost of three-parts loam, one part leal, one half-part crumbling manure and plenty of sand is suitable, a cold frame is the best place for them. If primulas are to do really well, it should be the aim of the grower to keep them moving, and, when the roots have rambled round the edge of the pot a move must be given. A fiveinch pot is best for all for the moment If very large specimens is the aim. another move can be given into seven or seven and a-half-inch pots later, but this applies more to the obconica varieties, which bloom over a much longer period. Should the plants in the three-inch pots be exceptionally good, six-inch pots might be used to advantage, but beware of overpotting. , , For this potting, soil somewhat rougher in texture should be used, say. four parts loam, one part leaf or peat, one part well-rotted manure, and a, good supply of mortar rubble or sand to keep the soil open. For the obconicas, a dusting of bonemeal will also some growers simply place the pots directly on the ashes in the frame, the writer prefers to have them on narrow boards, slightly raised by small pots. By this means worms will be circumvented, and the humid atmosphere so necessary can be more easily provided by damping the ashes daily. Another point, cases of blocked drainage will never occur. During the summer months the lights should be stippled with. shading, but plenty of air should be given bv propping them up In the cool of the evening it will be an advantage to remove them entirely for a few hours. Were it not for the possibility of heavy rains, they would, indeed, be best off for the whole night, but, in our fickle climate, this is rather too risky.

WATERING AND DAMPING Watering must be seen to with care, and it is wise ‘to avoid applying it direct from the spout of the can. Lx soil is constantly swilled away at one spot, roots may be exposed, and this will have its effect on the plant. A rosed can is much better, except, perhaps, in the case of malacoides. If this variety is really well done, the crowns will be numerous and the foliage prolific. and this sometimes leads to darnping. It is quite an easy matter to water them properly without a rose. Place one finger over the spout and with the other fingers on the same hand slightly push up the foliage, so that the water falls only on the soil. As the pots get filled with roots soot water may be given, say, twice a week, and if manure water can be made, it could be used alternately with it. Another good steady food which gives excellent results is Peruvian guano at the rate of a dessertspoonful to two gallons of water. After bringing indoors to flower, a temperature of 45 to 50deg is ample, and no forcing should ever be allowed with these subjects.—J. H. G. in Amateur Gardening.