MY LADY’S DRESS

Otago Daily Times, Issue 22711, 25 October 1935, Page 16

MY LADY’S DRESS

A LETTER FROM SYDNEY Dear Phitlida—Yellow silk jersey with an all over pattern of little white fishes and wavy black lines —that is the material of one of the most fanciful swimming suits of the season. Made with an uplift brassiere front it has diminutive trunks under a trim skirt winch ties with crossed straps at the back. Also at the back, three mother-of-pearl buttons below the waistline. Altogether a breath-taking affair when worn by . a bronze mermaid with floating blonde hair. This is a pay season and the gayest clothes of all are worn on the beach. Until this season whoever had heard of a “dressmaker” bathing suit? There were, of course, those that our grandmothers wore in the neck to knee period of 1890, but to-day dressmaker suits are the briefest and jauntiest of garments. Take for instance the white crepe suit in my illustration. It has a halter neck and a high waistline which gives an unlift effect. Both suit and matching coat are polka dotted in navy and the suit is lined with white jersey. Patterned bathing suits are the high tide of 1935 beach fashions. If you are even only moderately clever you can make one yourself, and if you are really clever you will have several. Materials are

diverse. There are some very “ flash ” suits made of sheer silk taffeta sprinkled with confetti dots in many colours. These are made with brief fluted skirts over fitted shorts and rows of tiny mother-of-pearl buttons at the neck. Then there are a variety of jerseys, both silk and woollen. These may be plain or printed and are very often either plaid or striped. Cotton suits are excellent either to wear in the water or merely to sunbake in Seersucker makes practical suits which do not crush or shrink. Tahitian pureo cloth comes in colours which seem to be the perfect complement of sun, sea and sand and in patterns which rival the glories of a tropical rook pool. There is a new dishtowej cotton which is _ crash coloured and sometimes has embroidered spots and sometimes plaid lines in navy and scarlet, green and yellow, or brown and vermilion. t Nearly every suit is made with an uplift top, either in brassiere form or achieved by a very high waistline which is shaped right up to the bust. Many suits have halter necks, some of which tie at the back and have gathered lullness in front. Bows fit the back of the neck and at the waistline are very much the thing and the hallmark of fashion is a row of buttons which do one up just below the waistline at the back. Nearly all these dressmaker suits have belts of the material. One enchanting suit, which owes it origin to Hollywood, has navy trunks and a top made of three

diagonal pieces of pale .bine, navy and saxe. This suit is backless, and ties with bows on the shoulders. The materia) is crinkly cotton. Hand-made swim suits are not only of the dressmaker variety. All respected woollen suits that are not made of jersey are hand-knit cr else machine-knit so cleverly that they are indistinguishable from a band-made article. And every knitted suit hag a fitted brassiere and no back. Cords and bolts are often of a contrasting colour. For all their brevity these suits are undeniably feminine—they are made in novelty weaves, and they have perky bows on waistlines or shoulders. Jersey capes and jersey coats are important beach accessories, and have to some extent replaced the towelling wrap of the last few seasons. The capes are of the cavalier variety—very full and almost knee length. Many suits have matching skirts> which button on over the top—sometimes a row of buttons goes all the way down the back, forming a direct Contrast to the r.ow popularised button-up-the-front skirt. Heim and Alix booh show beach wraps which have been influenced by Eastern styles. One particularly striking one is made from thin semi-transparent white woollen and has an Arab hood. Fantastic hoods and bonnets made from material which has been printed like a news sheet are another Parisian innovation.

Candy colours are prominent both m bathing suits and wraps —a real " lolly ” pink, aciddrop green and lemon yellow. Then there are play suits in dark colours —black, brown and navy—nearly all with small white designs. Shorts and skirts have given way to play suits, which are all in one piece, or at least are two-piece and matching. In my illustration you see a very simple white cotton play suit with bands of brown as its only trim. The shorts button up at either side. Most play suits for the beach have very brief shorts, but for those who fear the sun there are some delightful pyjama and plus-four suits. A pair of nubby brown linen plus-fours which can be slipped on over the swimming suit has a matching cape which covers the back. A pair of long beach trousers, which are pleated at the back, are made from white silk linen. A tailored coat of printed linen with wide revers and patch pockets and a scarlet linen scarf complete the costume. Wide hats and beach sandals in gay colours are important accessories. Nearly all these sandals are toeless, and some are merely composed of cords. Some have rubber soles, some wood, and some leather. Nearly all have inch-high heels. Painted toe-nails which match your finger-nails .. . are decorative / O, /. a 'hO and will make your feet look ■ more shapely.

(Omakau), Wallington (Matakanui), Poulson, G. Taylor (Earnscleugb), J. Ha piling ami Mollison (Clyde), C. Rooney and A. M. Taylor, Mrs A. E. Ruff, Misses B. Henderson, E. Annan (Clyde), B. Gardner, L. Bell, L. Pierce, B. Hesson, and S. Cameron, and Messrs L. Williams, D. Prevail, R. E. M‘Lay, P. Herbert (Dunedin), H. Annan, and R. Hanning (Clyde) and 0. Ruff. # * * Mr and Mrs G. R. Ritchie gave n delightful dance on Wednesday evening in the Tudor Lounge, in honour of their only daughter. Miss Elizabeth Ritchie, who recently returned with her mother from a tour abroad. As this is tulip week at the Savoy, the decorations in the Tudor' Lounge were very beautiful, massed tulips forming the main scheme, with banks of cinerarias and spring blossom on the stage and on the deep window seats. During the evening a song scena by "pupils of Miss Lily Stevens was performed to the great enjoyment of the guests. Mr and Mrs Ritchie received the guests in the lounge, assisted by Miss Ritchie. The former wore a becoming gown of powder blue georgette -interwomen with silver and finished by an unusual shoulder scarf of sapphire blue velvet, while Miss Ritchie wore the frock in which she was presented at Court earlier in the year-—a charming creation of lily-of-the-valley green and silver lame. The skirt was sunray pleated and fell in a short train, and the square cut bodice featured pleated cape sleeves of green tulle to tone. A draped cape wrap of velvet to match was worn, and •she carried a posy of lilies of the valley. Lady Evelyn Drummond, who is Mrs Ritchie’s guest, wore a smart gown of black crepe patterned in a conventional design with a cape to match. In honour of jubilee year, the tables at supper time were decorated with posies of red, white, and blue flowers. The guests were Commodore and Lady Evelyn Drummond, Commander and Mrs Willett, and officers of the H.M.S. Dunedin, Mr Justice Kennedy and Mrs Kennedy, Mr and Mrs C. W. Rattray, Dr and Mrs F. S. Batchelor, Mr and Mrs Sydney Neill, Dr and Mrs Russell Ritchie, Mr and Mrs J. A. Roberts, Dr and Mrs Gerald Fitzgerald, Dr and Mrs Walden Fitzgerald, Mr and Mrs W. F. Edmond, Air and Mrs W. 0. MTvellar, Dir and Mrs Desmond Unwin, Dir and Mrs J. Laidlaw, Mr and Mrs Dougins Ramsay, Mr and Mrs Edgar Hazlett, Major and Mrs Stewart, Mr and Mrs Stewart Macpherson, Dr and Mrs E. H. Williams, Mr and Mrs Harman Reeves, Mr and Mrs Frank Bell, Mr and Mrs Garth Gallaway, Mr and Mrs Leonard Black, Mr and Mrs F. M. Oldham, Mr and Mrs H. W. Bundle, Mr and Mrs A. E. A. M'Dougall, Mr and Mrs Hugh Finch (Moeraki), Mr and Mrs 11. Mandeno, Mr and Mrs A. 0. Matheson, The Dean and Mrs G. C. Cruiekshank, Mr and Mrs James Begg, Dr and Mrs J. B. Dawson, Dr and Mrs Roland Fulton, Dr and Mrs Gowland, Mr and Mrs Ralph Sleigh, Mr and Mrs A. Mumford, Mr and Mrs Donald Reid, Mr and Mrs J. Sinclair, Mr and Mrs Guy Sinclair, Mr and Mrs Reg. Sise, Mr and Mrs D. A. Solomon, Dr and Mrs Norman Speight, Mr and Mrs G, Whitcombe, Mr and Mrs Maurice Myers, Mrs Gerald Ferguson, Mrs Harold Elwortby (Timaru), and Mrs Sutherland Ross, Misses Blackmore, G. Gallaway, Joan Ritchie, Mary Ritchie, Lorraine Sidey, Lorraine Dawson, Cecily Ramsay, Joan Harper (Canterbury), Molly Scott, Biddy Laing, Kathleen Falconer, Marjorie Mumford, Helen Abraham, Stella Fitcliett, Winnie Johnstone, Violet Livingston, Dorothy Scoular, Betty Nanearrow, Sally Newton (Ashburton), Rosemary Ross, Jean Fenwick (Wellington), Elizabeth Williams, Flora Macdonald, Ailsa Lawson, Joan Nevill, Fan Peake, Audrey Meek, Winifred Cox, Bunty Allen, Lorraine Orbell, Peggy Brewer, Katharine Begg. and Betty and Mary Reeves, and Messrs Reeves (2), Murray Sidey, J. Dawson, Hugh Ramsay, David Morrow, John Edmond, Alastair Stewart, J. Dodgshun, Cunningham, D. Dodgehnn, Bryan Tapley, D. Nancarrow, H. Williams, Gordon Dick, C. Johnson, Armitage, R. Lawson, Nevill (2), Ken Cox, Geoff Reid, Fred Moody, Tom Fisher, Hugh Smith, Bruce Allen, Allan Orbell, R. M'Laren, F. Halsted, Frank Dawson, M. Shand, and Keith de Castro. ** * - The second and final evening devoted to the staging of one-act plays by members was given at the Playbox Club on Tuesday evening, when the hall was filled to capacity by an enthusiastic audience. Mr Rnssell-Wood judged the plays, and spoke at the conclusion of each one. Finally, he presented each of the six producers to the audience, and in a few appropriate words thanked them individually for making the little festival the success it had been. He also extended thanks to Miss Noeline Parker and Mr J. Walker, who had given valuable assistance to the players. It was then announced that the winning play was A. A. Milne’s “ The Boy Comes Home,” produced by Mrs Hugh Speight, who would be awarded the cup presented by Mr J. Walker. This announcement was greeted with prolonged applause. Mr Russell-Wood stated that the staging and arrangement of Mrs Speight’s play had been well carried out; the play had been well cast, and timing, balance, and make-up had been good, in addition to good individual work. There were, of course, minor faults, but these were overshadowed by the all-round merit. of the production. The players were:! —Philip, Mr Leslie Pithie; Aunt Emily, Mrs Hugh Sutherland; Uncle James, Mr Frank Lanyon; Mary, Miss Lucy Faulkner; Mrs Higgins, Miss G. Johnson. The play given second

place was A. A. Milne’s “ The Steppiother,” which Mr Leo Manning produced, and in which the judge stated there had been two fine performances, those of Mrs Earle Johnson as Lady Pembury and Mr Alexander M'Dowell' as the Stranger. The dialogue gripped the audience and was invested with considerable emotional pcwer; Mr M’Dowell’s exit was very well made. Good support was given bv Mr Leo Manning as Sir John and Mr J. Walker as Perkins, the butler. The setting was good, but could have been better, and at times emphasis was not correctly placed, but on the whole it was a powerful performance and worthy of praise. The final play was “ Smoke Screens,” by Harold Brighouse. This was staged by Mrs John M'Pherson, and was an interesting effort. The setting and arrangement were artistic, but the balance was not quite so good as in some of the plays. The best individual work was done by Mies Elizabeth Briton as Susan Merridew. Her speech and intonation were good and facial expression excellent. Miss Anne Pithie appeared as Lucy Aston, Miss Dulcie Hazelwood as Primrose Aston, and Miss Leila Greenall as Clarice. * ¥ * Recent guests at Wood’s Private Hotel were: —Mrs Wilde and Miss Smith (Wellington), Mr Claydon and Mr Dawson (Christchurch), Mr Park (Timaru), Mr and-Mrs Sinclair and children (Kurow), Mr Sheat (Palmerston), Mr and Mrs Taylor (Alexandra), Mr Bayley and Mrs Watters (Roxburgh), Mrs and Miss M'Cormick, and Mr M'Cormick i (Closeburn), Mr Moore (Ashburton), Miss Wood (Riversdale), Mrs and Master Steele and Mr and Mrs Keilly and family (Gore), Mr Casey (Milton), Mr Hewlett (Lumsden), Mr and Mrs Thomson (Invercargill), Mr Carruthers (Baldutha), and Mr and Mrs Clarke (Cromwell). * * * The second annual meeting of the service group of the Combined Old Girls Association was held at Philomena s on Wednesday evening. There was a good representation from the following old girls 1 associations:—Austral-uxr ton, Archerfield, Girls’ High School, St. Dominic’s, St. Hilda’s, and St. Philomena’s. The reverend mother, on behalf of St. Philomena’e, welcomed those present, and then Miss Black (the president) took the chair. Several letters ot thanks and the annual report were read. The membership of the service group stands at 159, and consists of representatives from six old girls’ associations, ihe first annual meeting was held at St. Hilda’s on October 10, 1934, when a president, secretary-treasurer, and committee were elected, the same two registrars remaining in office. A constitution was drawn up by the committee in November and accepted by the members at a general gathering held in February. During the year several committee meetings had been held at Archerfield, and social functions had taken place at the Girls’ High School and at Archerfield. In November a special effort was made to collect toys and clothing for the Children’s Convalescent Home at Kew, and toys and gramophone records for the lepers at Makogai. A good response was made to this appeal. In January six members gave their services at Logan Park in connection with the Duke of Gloucester’s visit. The service group had been asked to help with eight street collections this year, and in many cases had been responsible for a, block for the tea hours. The following had been helped:—Y.W.C.A., Returned Soldiers’ Association, Citizens’ Day Nurseries, Free Kindergarten Association, Wheelbarrow Derby, Y.M.C.A., the Church of the Helping Hand, and the Plunket Society. In June about 20 members assisted at Dr Kagawa’s lecture in the Concert Chamber by ushering and taking up the collection. In June, also, between 20 and 30 members served* afternoon tea in the Concert Chamber at a concert arranged by the Dunedin and Central Otago Presbyterian Association to raise money for the Deaconesses’ Superannuation Fund. During the winter a number of pairs of bed socks had been handed in for the Children’s Convalescent Home, also some clothing. One of the country members collected children’s boots, which were sent to tile Public Hospital, and much appreciated. Regular service had been rendered to the Y.W.C.A. in many ways and in office work at the League of Nations Union. A donation of boys’ dothes had been sent to a needy ease, and several members had visited people wno have been glad of personal attention. Nominations were then called for officebearers for the ensuing year, and the following were elected; —President. Mrs J. G. Neil; secretary-treasurer, K. V. Fountain; registrar, R. Ross; assistant registrar, B. M‘Kay, together with a delegate from each of the six O.G.A.’s. Miss Black spoke about the work of the service group, and stressed the need for personal sacrifice if the group were really to fulfil its purpose. The business meeting closed with a vote of thanks to the retiring president ami committee, proposed by Mrs Fairbairn. The play, “Mr Samson,” was read by members of the St, Phjlomena’s Old Girls’ Association. After supper a vote of thanks in appreciation of the hospitality shown was cordially carried.