EN BRETAGNE.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 21264, 19 February 1931, Page 7

EN BRETAGNE.

By E. Murray Fuller. The brilliant golden brown, red and yellow sails of numerous Tunny boats from the Breton coast, with their equally gaily painted hulls of blue, green and amber, urged me to write this whilst en route to South Africa in a Union Castle liner. To-day the Bay of Biscay is, tranquil, and smiling, and one is fortunate , indeed to see this group of fishing boats, dancing over the water with their outstretched spars, from which are fastened many fishing lines gathering their rich harvest, thus appearing like the wings of huge albatrosses. Only last week near this spot 272 Breton fishermen lost their lives whilst trying to make port in one of the most treacherous storms ever remembered in the “ Bay.” This was the saddest page in the history of the Breton coast, although every year the sea takes a heavy toll of lives, which makes for sadness amongst this hardy race of Breton fishermen. What a pathetic ending to the all too short and happy summer months, when the peasants enjoy prosperity through the catches of tunny and sardines. Every evening, with the incoming tide, the multi-coloured boats race into the harbours with their glittering cargoes, which are disposed of at the quay sides, leaving the fishermen free to enjoy their amusements with their wives and sweethearts, on the merry-go-rounds and at the brightly coloured booths which are erected in the village squares. Many of the men lost were born and lived their lives in the lovely village of Concarneau. Numbers of New Zealanders have a personal interest in this Breton village, which has been made familiar to them by the brush of our painter Sydney Thompson, who has spent the greater portion of his life amongst these sturdy .fishermen. They knew him as one of their best friends, and have always appreciated his work. Often have I watched them in the golden summer evenings, grouped round his easel. During this summer it was my good fortune to pay a third visit to Brittany, this time in the company of other New Zealand painters— Mabel Hill (Mrs MTndoe), Mr A. E. Baxter—quite a New Zealand colony. In the company of Sydney Thompson, many villages unknown to the tourist were visited, including Loc Maria with its eleventh century church. This village is not on any regular map and needs a good “ bump of locality ” to find again after a first visit. Tucked in amongst the low-lying hills, it is by beautiful trees which form compositions for the painter at every angle, with the weather-worn old grey stone of the church and the ancient village as a background. The interior of the church is the most interesting, containing many carved figures of painted wood, old Breton peasants with their spades and pitchforks, and statues of saints, that would be heralded as the most modern in sculpture if shown in London or Paris to-day. Like many other old Breton churches, the entrance is made over a etile of stone, and a curious mortuary chapel is built nearby. This has no doorway, and it appears that the bodies had to be put in through the windows.

Another village revisited was Josselin, which has not changed since the seventeenth century. However, with the present reign of prosperity in France I am afraid the picturesque old houses' will go the way of the famous “Maison Bleu," the seventeenth century house at Quimperle. This beautiful building, which must have been visited and painted by hundreds of artists during the last 200 years, to my great disappointment, this year presented a new fascade in glaring white plaster, which no doubt delights its present owner. The chateau at josselin, growing more popular with tourists every summer, is one of the most interesting and perfect examples of mediaeval architecture in France. It is still inhabited by the de Rohan family. Rising directly from the river banks, built on solid rock with tall rounded turrets, this chateau could easily be the orge’s castle from a Grimm’s fairy tale. During the summer religious fetes, known as Pardons, arejield in most villages, and an impressive _ finish to our stay in Brittany was a visit to what is known as the most important Pardon held in this country. The Pardon of St. Anne de Palud is a thrilling and exciting event. The church of grey stone, standing alone' on a green hillside, was surrounded by many thousands of Bretons wearing thier national costumes, all joining devoutedly in the huge procession and the ceremony to bless the sea and the fields for the coming year. The sparkling sands of the Bay of Dournenez stretched for many miles below.