THE GARDEN.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 18465, 28 January 1922, Page 3

THE GARDEN.

NOTES BY D- TANNOCK/ F.E.H.S. WORK FOB THE WEEK. ymt ffSEENHOtrSK ASH NHBSEBT. The cinerarias can bo planted ’ P the frame# aa soon as they lished in their pots bright, sonny weather, but the sashe# can beguiled right ofif in the evenings and during nice warm showers. Ptwk out the seedling calceolaria# and any other seed lings « «w. a# tbev «• 1«B9 handle, shading . them dnnn S weather end keeping them as moist and cool as possible without watering. _Any cineraria# not required for the gtwm house can be planted out m the garden, where they will do very well unlesa we get a very severe winter. They can be planted under trees, rocky 1 ba^ ks ’ rock garden. The only drawback is the bairv caterpillar and the leaf miner, both can be kept away by mafang the plant# distasteful by, sprayrng tbem with tar water or quassia. The caterpillars con be poisoned by spraying with arsenate of lead. j Continue to I me out wallflowers ana ether biennials white the ia favo-r----able, and sow seeds of bulbs and hardy perennials and alpines as they npon. THB fLOVrm G-ABDKH. rf popm^oMd carried out whenever the weather is favourable. There is no ure spraymg while it is raining or when the foliage is mou , it simply dilate# the solution. The afternoon is the beet time, and. be wet Ml the foliage, both the under and the upper sides of the. learres. . The exceptionally moist weather w causing the plants to make growth instead ot flowering, and the only plant# which wem to really enjoy wet weather are fuchsias and tuberous begems#. Their flowers are not spoiled, and they continue to grow alright. Continue to stake and tie up the michaelmas dairies and other herteosou plants and to cut the flower spikes off those which arc past . , • Oar nation# ar<» not naTir*£ tnnen. ot a time. They redlv like nice warn sunny weather, bub a# “they are such favourites and so useful for cutting, we wiU just have to go on propagating th om. (or a better season next year. The moat (satisfactory method of increasing the stock, opart from seed, is by layering. They take such a long time to root from cuttings and become so weakened during the prM, that they u«»ny fail to make flowering plants the first season. The growths from round the base of the tbem, usually called grass, ore what we use ter propogating, and by treating than in ami » way that they are able to form roots while still attached to the parent pant and drawing supplies of water and plant food from ft, the development of roots is secured without any serious check to. the growth. It ia better to use some speciallynrepared soil similar to a cutting mixture, imposed of leaf-mould one part, loam one part and sand and lime rubble one part. First clear away all weeds, and tom np the soil round the plant# with a hand fork, and then spread a Jayer of the prepared soil round them and. firm it down a httle. Thera is no need toi limit, the number of layers taken from jone plant, but as a rule there are not., more than six good shoots. If there art more, it is best to select those which have a I^f al .^L d and those which are easily bent down. With the fingers remove the loaves from the atem—at the bend if ofiid certainly not teas than 4m from, the end of the shoot —and bare one jomt completely. With a sharp thin-waded fcmfo cut into the stem about half-way between the nodes or joints, whidh is usually about half an inch below the bared joint, and out upwards and inward# until you cut right through the node and half-way through the stem, and continue to cut upwards to the next joint This forma a tongue and with the away from the stem. Still holding the cut back, press the whole shoot down into the .loose soil fastening ft there with a wire peg. Next out off the ends of the (eaves and owver up the tcmgpo with ofc least an inch of soil, making ft nice and firm- Water if the weather is dry, and the operation is complete. What really happens ia the shoot continues to. draw diminished supplies of water and mineral plant food from the roots of the parent plant. These are elaborated in the leaves, part being retained for continuing growth and part returned to the roots for a edmilar purpose, but as the otem is out half way through, half flows down the tongue and accumulates there. The out surface is covered over with a layer of callus, md new roots begin to . form at the write. Two important points bo remember are:—(l) That the stem must not (be cot mom than half-way through; and (2) that the tongue must be kept hock from the original stem, 1 have seen it pressed back against the stem again when it promptly healed up and did not troabte to mate any fresh cuttings are taken they should be taken off about tin to bin long, out across immediately below a node, and inserted in boxes of a specially prepared flatting bed prepared as described for a seed bed last week. With a layer of. dean sand cm top, water well and abode with a. piece of scrim or some branches. Border pinks end many of the alpine pink# oan be prorogated by means of cuttings, and ft is usual after cutting the stem across immediately below A node to out up through the node a little way and to put a little piece of the loaf into the out to keep ft open. . . Water and bog plants sbould.be at their beet just now, but the rainy weather does not suit them. Their roots have all the moisture they require, and all they want is sunshine to develop their flowere and to keep down rook growth. The water lilies certainly require all the heat and sunshine they can get, and for this reason they do best when grown in a comparatively small pool surrounded with rooks which absorb, and afterwords radiate heat. It is well said that the Japanese iris likes to grow with their roots in- the water and their heads in the sun, and though they grow in an ordinary border they are best when their roots are in water or very moist soil like the ordinary English flog iris. Some of the moisture-loving plants suitable for planting near a pond or stream are—lris laevigata, the Japanese iris, iris oriiroleuca., which, grows to a height of 6fi, and iris sibirioa (the Siberian iris). There are quite a lot of spiraea and allied plants such a# Arstilbe DavidiL with rosy purple flowers, the white Astilbe. japamoa and its pink variety, Spiraea grgantetrm, which' grows nearly 6ft, the S. aruncus, nearly as high, the S. lUmaria (the meadow sweet), the S. filipendula (the meadow dropwort), and the S. palmate. Saxifraga peltate is rather a peculiar plant. Its white or pale pink flowers appear in early spring, and these are followed by large ahield-like leaves. Podophyllum Emodi is a plant from the Himalayas which grow* from about a foot to 18 inches high with large leaves cut into wedge-shaped lobeSj their whole surface a bronzy red ia spring. The flowers are white, and are followed by bright red fruits an large aa a hen’s egg. Rodgorsi is a similar kind of plant to the saxafrage and the podophyllon. It has bronze green leaves one foot or more across and cleft into five broad divisions. The flowers are produced on spikes 3ft to 4ft high like a giant meadow-sweet, and are quite handsome. Stonanthmm robustmn is a North American bulbous-root plant which throws up epikee of creamy-white fragrant flowers from 2fl to 3ft high. . . Tho moisrtnre-ir/TTng* primula* bps a nost in themselves. There is the old well-known Primnla Japonfea, which can be had in several colours, and file newer P. BuTlevana, P Beesiana, the Lisridalc hybrids, P. denticulate., P. rosea. P. cockbu.rniona. P. aakkimensis, P. farinose, and P. Vetchn. Of the stronger growing flowering plant# there are Scnccio clivorum, with orangeyellow flowere. Kninhofias or red-hot pokers, purple loostitfe. giant willow herb (Kpd<>. brtrn augastifolirrm), plume poppy (Booconi.il e-rrlflte). the. hmo popPT (Meconopsis TWUrhii). tronins nr globe flowers. Riohardia icthiopiaa, -rear, gigantea, and I/cbelin. fulgens. , 3 a. Smaller plant# tat growing round the jmargms, ot ..water «bs—to sbaftew

part# are Caltha palnstris and O. pblypetabe, the Bog bean, water plantain, and water hawthorn (Aponogeton distachyon). Foliage plant# and grasses are Gnnnera manicata, and G. scabra, native flax,; Rheum pal mat mu and R. Emodi, Funkics in many varieties, pampas grass, Eulalia japonica, and polygonums. THB VEGETABLE G ABIDES. Continue to weed and cultivate growing crops, earthing up thoeo which require it, and thinning out the seedlings before they become too crowded. Take advantage of the moist, showery weather to get out the winter and spring greens and to transplant celery and leoka Bowings of shorthorn' carrots and early turnips can still be made, and, of course, the supplies of salading plant# must be kept up. , Mushrooms are always appreciated, and beds can be made up either in a shed or cellar or in the open air, but I will have to leave a description of the details of cultivation until next week’s notes. NOTICES TO CORRESPONDENTS. “Roosbnnk.” Balclutha. —Tour heap foliage has been stacked by rust, and if it is not very bad the affected loaves can be picked off and burned and the remaining foliage sprayed with Bordeaux mixture summer formula. If very bad burn the lot. It is not wise to save seeds for future sowing from diseased plant# of .any kind. “Amateur,” Tnatapere!—Club . root is a very troublesome disease which is liable to attack all the plants which belong to the natural order Cruioferas, such as turnips, cabbage, cauliflower, etc. The disease is caused by a fungus which may lie dormant in the soil for several years, and often when nothing better offers will attack shepherd’s purse and charlock. Wet, cold Weather and sour soils help to make the presence of the fungus more evident. Good drainage and deep cultivation are an advantage. It is also undesirab'e to grow two crops of brassioafl on, the; same land. in soooettion if it can be ayioded. Applications of freshly slacked lime at the rate of fire to seven tons per acre about six to eight month# before the crop is sown are very effective. Plants attacked, by this disease should not bo thrown on compost heap, but should be burned at once. “Crab.”—The leaves arc affected, by the sweet chestnut disease Sclerotinia podi. This disease frequently attacks the leaves in spring and during rainy weather. Later the disease is conveyed to the flowers, causing mummified nuts, which ought to be collected and burned. OUR PRIVATE GARDENS. The Scarlet Mistletoe. We made reference last week to the efforts ot Dr Jkilton and Mr W. A. Thomson to propagate the scarlet mistletoe on the white beech tree. In this connection a correspondent, who signs himself “Mistletoe,” writes:—■ “Reading your interesting notes or. private gardens, and particularly those referring to the scarlet mistletoe and Dr Pulton*# experiments, I was reminded of a plant of this mistletoe which is now called by the botanical name of Elytranthe Coleneoi, which I saw growing at Halfway Bush. This plant was, after much patient experimentation, propagated by Mr W. A. Thomson on one of our native beech trees —namely, Northofagus Menzicsii, on . April 2, 1915. It is now a plant over six inches high, showing the slow rate of growth, in the initial stage# at any rate, of this interesting and beautiful New Zealand parapite. I have heard of Dr Fulton’s plants, which were successfully propagated a year ,or two after this date. I should like to know if any of your correspondents can lay claim to an earlier date and show their plants. If not, then Mr Thomson, of Halfway Bush, is easily the first person to demonstrate that our New Zealand mistletoe can bo propagated from seed without the aid of birds.” Rhododendrons and Azaleas. In a Dunedin garden the other day we saw a fine bush of Rhododendron Maddonii in full flower, and the large white waxy bells were very beautiful and striking. They have a strong but pleasant perfume, and are not unlike the flowers of R. Jenkensii, which was also in flower in the same garden. Watson, in his handbook on rhododendrons gives the names as synonyms, but those wo saw .had several points of difference. Maddenii is tender in England, and usually grown under glass, but it is quite hardy here. It is a native of Sikkim. Prom these. Himalayan regions come many fine species, mostly hardy here, but in England they have been largely used for hybridising purposes, and are parents crossed with hardier species of many fine forms. Many may think that it is very late in the year for rhododendrons to flower, but it would be possible to have some in bloom for quite six months, beginning with R. Nobleanum, which in June opens its buds and displays its pretty little trusses of deep pink, - followed by one known here as Tumai, which remains in flower for a considerable period. What the real name is is unknown, as it was imported many years ago by the late Mr George Matthews, who, as the tally was lost, dubbed it Tumax. Another rhododendron, known locally os Charles Lawson, is also, it is believed, misnamed for a similar reason. Be that a# it. may. it is one which no one should be without, as it is a very prpfuse floweror, and bears and abundance of' looae trusses of a beautiful pink in the bud. fading to white in the open flower, and a circle of these white bells round a centre of pink buds has a lovely effect.' •As rhodpdendrons thrive so well here, they ought to be in every garden, large or small, for they vary greatly in size, and whilst some attain a great stature, others are .of more modest growth, such as the Princes Alice and Suave; indeed, these bear some resemblance to the Indian azaleas. which botanically are rhododendrons, and are. quite hardy here. Though perhaps not ouite so floriferous as they are further north, they flower fairly abundantly. The deciduous, azaleap, A. Mollis and the Ghent varieties, are gaining in favour, and like all the rhododendrons, are well worth growing. If the rose be the queen of flowers, the rhododendron may well be called the king of flowering shrub#, and so long as they are not planted in too hot and dry a place,, or where, there is lime in the soil, they are not fastidious. Dunedin has good reason to be proud of her Rhododendron Dell, but that is no reason why private gardens should not be also beautified with many of these charming shrub#. The Rata and the Pohutukawa. Just as the rhododendron and the azelea may justly be placed in the forefront of the exotic flowering shrubs that ornament our garden#, so may the rata and the pobutukawa be similarly placed ‘ among the native shrubs suitable for garden and pleasure - ground cultivation. Surprise has often been expressed that the flowering shrub# of New Zealand, many of them of considerable beauty, have not been more generally employed in beautifying the surrounding* of the home. True the .veronica is an exception; many of the species arc freely used in shrubberies and gardens throughout the dominion. Their graceful beauty is becoming more and more recognised, and we have more than once, referred in terms of commendation to the highly meritorious efforts of two residents of Lawrence to get together a complete rolleotion of the New Zealand genus. Olearias and eeneoios also offer a wide range to lovers of our native flora, and some of the species are most attractive. Perhaps, however, the. native trees which attract popular, attention more than any other—even more no than the graceful and feathery-fofiaged kowhai or some of the charming varieties of ribbonwood—are tho rata and the pohutukawa, whoso crimson flowers at once arrest- attention ir their natural surroundings. There are many pood specimens of tho rata in private pr'dons in Dunedin, and they have generally flowered well during the last few weeks, although the flowering season is now weT over. The pohutukawa. comes into bloom a little later, and is much more rarely Been in these southern parts. In Auckland, however, and in favoured localities with sea frontages in the north, tho pohutukawa trees are a blaae of colour at Christmas time, sc much so that it has been given the name of the Christina# - tree. It alec is n rata, with tho specific name. The pohutukawa grows quite 'well in and etrwcmd Dunedin, although the frost# of our southern climate are in some locMities a Ettle more than it can stand. There are some good specimens. In the city, amort c the beet, perhapn. being the specimen nourishing in the garden of Mrs Watson Sbennan. High street. This is at present in splendid bloom, and a noteworthy object of attraction to the regular passengers in the High street car.

A Question of Chemistry. Apropos of the paragraphs which have appeared regarding tho partiality of rats for carnations, a correspondent writes, “My garden has on several occasions been invaded bv rabbits, and although there is plenty of gross and clover available, H-ev almost invariably attack the carnation plants, whidh they nibble down eloeelv. - ’ It would be of interest if onv of our chemists could determine what ia„ (he attractive constituent tat thane pianta.