WEST COAST LAKES AND FIORDS.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 14441, 6 February 1909, Page 6

WEST COAST LAKES AND FIORDS.

HON. T. -MACKENZIE'S VISIT. SOME OF THE MINISTER'S IDEAS l'Oi! IMPROVEMENT The Hon. T. Mackenzie, Minister in charge of I lie Department of Tourist, and Health Resorts, returned to Dunedin on Wednesday night afier ati interest,in«' and usual tour of tho country in the vicinity of .Milford Sound and Luke To Anau n «d I-ako Manapouri. On Tlniredoy Mr Mackenzie courteously agreed to state to one of our reporters the object of his visitand to outlino some of the improvements that, in his opinion, might be effected to extend tho popularity of this beautiful portion of tho Dominion.

"The object of my visit," said Mr Mackenzie, "was to obtain a thorough knowledge cf tlio exact, position of our tourist romc-s ill t-lic west, and to see whether they could not bo improved u-nd the accoiii. malatiou bettered. I recognise that unless one is familiar with the work ho has to do, sitting in Wellington will result- in no gocxl. I may say at once that I consider . the accommodation at t.lie huts at Glada House and at Te Anau Ilotol is good. In some places, indeed, it- is wonderful, when one remembers the disadvantages under which people have been working, but I am of opinion that many improvements can be effected. There is too much of tlio preserved milk and meat about the wliolo business. 1 have ordered that 10 acres of rich, scrub land near Glade House and beJow tho Quinton Huts in the Arthur Valley bo cleared and gr.iwed, preparatory to receiving shefi> and mill; cows, and probably torses. My idea is that a- few sheep should Ito bought at the beginning of the 63ason and gradually killed off."

Our reporter askod aliout tho etato of the track from Milford Sound to Lake Te Anau.

"It is not. nearly so bad as a number of people havo made out," slid Mr Mackenzie. " Indeed, miles and mifos of it are as .-mooth as a drawing-room ticor, but where tho water gets in from the mountain sides, and the soiJ is washed away, the llinty rocks make walking exceedingly difficult, a«l that will always bo so in a greater or lesser degree. However, in going on an expedition into these lonely regions people have to nake up their minds for so mo personal inconvenience, which is more than repaid by the fresh air, invigoratug exercise, si-nd the sou-l-m----spiring scenery that is met with, 'l'hero aro somo people who should never go beyond a city path, but those who aro prepared to do a little sctf-dcnial will tiiKt themselves amply repaid in many ways for their exertions.'' s

Questioned us to his plans for the future in regard to those parts, tho Minister gave some interesting information.

" I have taken very copious notes," ho said, "of tho condition of affairs, and it id largely a question of ways and means. 1 have Uiougift out some scuciues. I have deoided to uiccontiuuo the Ucorgo Sound track to the middle iiord of Lake Te Anau and to confine communication with the West Coast to two icutes—Milfortt Sound to North Te Amy, and Hall's Arm to the south-west arm of Manapouri. The laetnamed track must be mit in order. There has been a. splendid track formed, for seven miles up the iieatorth Valley to a. beautiful lake, but it is now overgrown and many of the light bridges ai« down. I have in my mind's eye, tco, the planning of excursions, which will enable a great number of people to visit our mcst lovely fiord scenery within a short period and at moderate prices, I hope. Thero is also the track between tho head of Te inau and AVakutipu, which is now being pushed on. It trinei'ecs the country which I, in company with Mr Hurley and others, explored two years ago. 'ibis track will Le about 45 miles long. It, starts from Glads House, at tho head of I.ake Te Anau; crosses Foliage Head, and then follows a picturesque creek called Nurse's Creek; crosses a f'addle which I called the Hurley Saddle, after Mr Buiiey, who was the first iii.ni to cross it; then descends through some of the most magnificent red birch I over saw to the Eglinion River. There the traveller will most with n wide si retell of meadow lands dct.ted with stately birch trees, park-like in appearance, while beyond rise ihe beech forests and Ihe (jr.md moun-tain-tops. The Kglinloti River is followed for eight or t?n miles, when l.ako Uuiiti is reached. When we went there two yearn ago we ercssed two high saddles over the cascades, between 1003 it. ami SOOOIt high, but from our elevated vow we perceived where a track could ha taken along almost level ground, round Lakes C!imn, Fergus, ami Howden, and joining tlra Martin's Hay track near Lake M'Kellav. From this point the way to Jxil.e Wakatipu is down the Greenstone Valley for a distance of about. 20 miles, throng!] very prcttyscenery. It was fortunate that I happciifd' to make inquires regarding the intended through tracks," because 1 learned that instead of tho road being taken round that system of lakes by on almost level route it. liad bteu surveyed over the high spur of the Livingstone range, and 1 have given instructions to abandon that scheme for the easier and more interesting lakes route.

Is it likely that the track will be „\>mploted at an Curly date, Mr Mackenzie, asked our reporter.

"Tho track will orobably be through ill afeu* months' time. It will enable ilio hardier class of tourists to have ait extended area of country to visit at a moderate cost, localise already the steamers and railways tako visitors from Dunedin to ilir; head of I/ako Wakatipu tor a, vory moderate sum, aivd visitors can then wall; through this new track at small cost to (Hade House, To Anaii, and once at Glade House they can either go up the Clinton Valley and over the M'Kjnnon Saddlo to the SutliertaiKl Falls, or, if they wish, tliey tan follow down Lake Te Anau and visit some of t.lio beautiful fiords to the west, of thai. lake, 'iney can go down to Lake Alanapouri, if tlicy have l.iino to mako a further journey of 13 miles."

Our reporter remarked upon the magnificent country that the new track would open ivp.

" Yes." said Mr Mackenzie, " this Greenstone River track to Wakaitpu must in the not. far distant future become a. great highway to three points— to Martin's Bay Settlement by Lake M'Korrow and the llollyford, to Glade House, and to Milford Sound. We should keep in view the piercing of a short tunnel through the wall of rock which now fences off Milford Sonnd and the Cleddau Valley from all the interior country of Otago. Some 4000 yards would be sullicient, at a cost, I reckon, of £10,000, without estimating the oosfc of approaches. That would enable steamers to come direct from Melbourne into Milford Sound. The tourist would then travers: the Cleddau Valley, obtain a view of Mount. Tutoko, Mount Christina, and the glaciers which Jio into tlie Cleddau Valley. On reaching the Hollyford ho would sec the groat rocky buttresses and glaciers that lie on the shady side of the range behind Milford Sound. The distance by that route from Milford Sound to Wakatipu would be about 35 miles. Tho tourist could then proceed to Wanaka ami down to Dunedin, or he could strike into To Anau, visit Manupouri, and by the Waiau Valley reach lnvcrcargill, via Otautau, or he could taiie the present route by way of Lumeden. Wo should endeavour to get our tourists into our scenery country as quickly a« possible. Time and cost are the two great factors to consider. At present it takes two day 6 to go from Dunedin or lnvcrcargill to i'o Aikiu ami Manapouri, and two days to return. The connecting system is faulty in the extreme, and if ever the lake scenery is to bo opened to the people a system of motoring and coaching combined must be adopted, and the tourist landed at tho lakes from Dunedin or Invercargill in one day. That is, of course, a matter concerning which I shall consult with my colleagues, and I am sure they will assist, as far as possible, in making our country accessible and available, not only to tourists from abftad, but to our own peoplo."

Conocrning attractions for tourists other than scenery, the Minister said:—

"The Seaforth Valley, I tliinlc, mioht lie stocked with moose or wapiti. It a splendid plaoe for them; they would not lxi disturbed. Some members of our party lauded a number of line trout out of the Arthur River and Lake Te Anau, and bad very good sport in landing the fish." Our reporter mentioned that a number of complaints bv'tourists had found publicity recently.

" Well," said Mr Mackenzie, " I hope they will not have much scope to complain in the future. Tourists should not forget that certain hardships must be endured. Some people are very' unreasonable, W* still complain when the people in charge of the lntt6 do their very best for them. We have trustworthy people in charge of the various stopping-places now, and it is my opnion that they do their very best to make visitors as comfortable as possible. We contemplate some improvements to the huts which will enable peoplo arriving with wet garments to ohidige thom. 1 may give an example of the demands made

oil tlio guides. A womnn, one of a party, sprained her niiklo in the Arthur Valley, only a few miles from Milford Sound. Now, there is an easy track from tho valley to the sound, and two steamers were expected at the sound. But the party demanded that (ho lady sliould bo carried over M'Kinnon l'ass, 3000 ft or 4000 ft high, and about 15 miles on the other side down to Lake Te Anau. Another tourist went to Te Aj's". and, representing that she was a. visiting journalist, demanded that sho should be taken into a region that had never been explored by anyone. Sho was absolutely Ignorant of the difficulties, and bounced the guides, who at last wont with her, only to tind themselves bushed for tho night."

Speaking of the attractions of t-li6 lakca and liord scenery, Mr Mackenzie remarked: —

"There can bo no doubt that tin southern cold lakes and liovds will alwayl have a much greater attraction for Australians than tho North Island during tin first three months of the year. Thev'eom« hero to be recuperated and reinrignrated, and our bracing alpine climate is just wliaj they require. I am sure that any reasonable sum spent in opening up the country will lie more than repaid to the country by tourists."

What is your opinion, Mr Mackenzie, of the steamer service ,cn tho lakes? asked our reporter.

"There has been a demand for an improvement. in the steamers on Lakes l'e Anau and Manapouri," said Mr Mackenzie, " but to my mind the first thing to do is to make the means of access better and to bring the numbers of people there that are -required, a-nd then better steamer provision may be thought- cf."'

" I think," continued Mr Mackenzie, " that something should bo done to form alpine clubs for the encouragement of the grandest of all exercises—that of exploration. There are thousands of virgin peaks yet. to be scaled, and no better exercise could bo found nor more onjoyablo recreation taken than that of going away into our wilds and conquering such difficulties as arise in connection with alpine work."