ALPINE CLIMBING IN NEW ZEALAND.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 13563, 9 April 1906, Page 2 (Supplement)

ALPINE CLIMBING IN NEW ZEALAND.

[ — » THE LATEST ASCENT OF MOl'N'T COOK. Mr ilenrik Sill cm. a Dutch gentleman, and the distinguished alpini-t. who is at preset;! touring lh<> world with his wife, on reaching Chriiichurch from the Southern lax ;vck, wai interviewed by a repre-eniarive of the Christchureh who induced him to give sotno account of rtie various ascr-nn. Of some of these kc have alrrwlr given ;ome particulars. Speaking of Mount, Kli de Beaumont Mr Sillcm iai'):--"Tha! climb has not been made U-fore v.iih Yet it is not .-o itifHcsiir ai i., generally supposed. The mistake most people make is in trying to cross the ieefall where it is least broken. I often,found in Switzerland that the very broken parts were filled with huge boulders, enabling one to climb over and cross the crevasses. 1 really don't, think this climb will be found a difficult one in future if it is atlempted early in the season when the c-revasics are filled with snow. The altitude is 10.200 ft. and the view from tho top, which we reached an hour before noon, was simply grand." Speaking of the ascent of Mount Cook. Mr Sillem said it was his intention to climb the southern peak, which had never previously been scaled, bv the roeks and make his way over to (he highest peak. Mr Sillem went on to say:—"Oil February 28 wo went finally to our bivouac, and on Iho Ist of March successfully climbed tho southern peak from our camp, reaching tho top (11.737 ft) in eight hours and 40 minutes. Although tho rocks arc steep, lltey aro good, and offered us no extraordinary difficulties. No doubt, the next, party might find even an easier way round some of tho rock's instead of over them, and might accomplish the ascent in quickcr time. Wo readied the top at five minutes past- 1, and I experienced ono of tho finest alpine panoramas it has ever been my privilege to sco. Unfortunately, it was too late, and the condition of tho miow was too bad, to try to reach tlio highest peak from where we were, so we returned to camp the samo way as wo went up. and arrived" at our destination as sunset." ' 4

Owing lo tho absonco of guides it was not until March 10 that a start could bo made to climb tho highest peak of Mount Cook (12,349 ft). A start was made at midnight. in splendid moonlight. Mr Sillcm added" Except for tho long and steep snow slope which wo had lo mount to reach the ridcro I don't consider tho climb al all difficult. There is only its length which must make it inaccessible to many people. We had no view at all from the top, unfortunately, as a gale started to blow and it became foggy, so after 10 minutes' rest wo commenced the descent, reaching our bivouac at 9 p.m. Wo had been on oar feet 21 hours, and wero dogtired, but we enjoyed tho climb very much. On March 16 I went with tho same guides lo Footsloo! Camp (5700 ft). on the top of (he grassy slopes of Footstool. This mountain has only once been climbfd —by Fyfo and George Graham,—and it proved to be tho most difficult climb I tackled in the New Zealand Alps, nn the rocks were very loose, and it. was very difficult for us to avoid rolling slones on top of each other. We reached (lie top from the camp in six hours, and had a splendid view towards West-land." Mr Sillera thinks that two guides and a jiorter are not sufficient for the alpino regions, and he intends lo ccmirminieato with the Government on that point. Ho enjoyed his slay at, the Hermitage very much. Tho hoi el is comfortable and tho food, if plain, is very good.