FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON

New Zealand Times, Volume XXXIII, Issue 7447, 23 May 1911, Page 9

FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON

FEOII OUR LADY CORRESPONDENT. LONDON, April T. There is probably no reason why shop windows—expressive as they are, of Fashion’s emotion of , tho moment — should not indicate other things also. Is it imagination th.at the West End windows alter their virtuous endeavours in tho All-I3ritisli Week are revelling with relieved sighs in being able to display once more, unashamed, labels that tell truthfully, or otherwise, that most of the goods shown come from Paris, Vienna, etc.? I take the liberty of thinking not, since such a state of things—grimly humorous, in a way—as British goods for sale in a British country is a novelty, and tho British public takes slowly tn novelties. Tho all-British week has quietly gone and loft small trace of its,existence behind it, save for a few rich silks, still boldly described British-made. But • it has probably had a bracing effect on the shopping community that no other object lesaiou could have done. - And to make a shopper think is surely a great achievement. If more of that wholesome mental exercise were indulged in; if, like the Queen, tho woman who buys a beautifully worked dress would insist on knowing runder what circumstances that delicate needlework is done; tho woman whose Qieart is set on p tempting w'hite aigrette would remember that it is "tho white badge of cruelty”: the one who buys a much betrimmod shirt for a few shillings would force' herself to think of the poor bent-backed and half-starv-ed creature who i,s in that sorry state because she is paid starvation rates for her work; it, indeed, people took the very least interest in anything beyond the price of their bargains, it is safe to aay that there would be vast changes effected in the world. There is little new to record regarding London fashions, which now, as far, at least, as th» soring modes are conconcerned, are fixed. THE ONE REFER BLOUSE, of which I wrote last week, is fcvidently to be popular, and made np in shot silk with the rever of gorgeous Eastern embroidery veiled in ninon, or elaborately beaded, it is very effective. HAREM SKIRTS, I noted, in my tour of shops this week, were only conspicuous by thoir absence. TUNICS are still with us, but are altering in. shape. The newest are short, reaching only about nine inches helow the waist and finished with a fringe of silk or beads. They are not very pretty, it must bo confessed, and' lack the grace of the Jong ones. SILK COATS AND SKIRTS with the skirt of plain silk and tho short waisted coatee (with a tight-fitting basque, be it. noted) of paisley or figured silk, and vests of lace in cascades are being, exploited by several well-known firms. Tight skirts are tho order of the day in all materials, though evening dresses are allowed more generous proportions. SLEEVES, which, it was prophesied some weeks ago, were to be large, are, apparently, in a state of indecision. Nearly all, even on serge drosses, are elbow length, and hang straight. Puff sleeves, even on gowns of soft material, are nowhere shown. ■BEADING is in as (high favour as ever, and nothing that can admit of the ornamentation is without it. One very effective l evening gown I was shown was of soft! whits silk embroidered with great sprays of forget-me-nots, all the flowers composed of heads. Another remarkable evening dress was of bright emerald silk finder a tunic of 'black, tho latter clinging to the, figure and embroidered in a convention-1 al pattern, on corsage and hips, in steel i beads. - Scarves, evening cloaks, hair banbeaux, hats, bags, blouses, cloth and' serge coats and skirts all con.orm to, the craze, and nearly always coloured beads are employed. One black silk jacket X saw this week looked rather strange with a fringe of beads edged with coral coloured ones. One striking difference' between the evening dresses of this year and last is the length of the skirt. Last. year one scarcely saw an evening frock that was not some inches off the ground, bnt now all the new models, with the exception of the Empire styles, are cut long and show the return of the graceful and not too voluminous train. CERISE is a colour that, perhaps, should be sparingly worn, unless one wishes to be conspicuous, but touches or it, artistically added, give a delightful and uncommon finish to a costume. I had tea at the Lyceum Club last week with a young New Zealander, who looked remarkably s well groomed andsmart, and with a very real pride in her appearance. I dissected her costume and found that she wore a dress of navy serge, close fitting ,and’ trimmed only with rather broad dull black braid and a tiny yoke of black net and gold embroidery. Her hat also was navy, of some fine starrw and turned back from her face with a cerise feather of the thin long description, rather more like | a fluffy quill than a feather. HATS seen in windows would seem put there only to provoke mirth, so outlandish are they, yet they are worn in solemn earnest, so must be criticised as hats and not eccentricities. ■ 'Shapes like those in large sizes we

have probably seen before, but the small ones truly beggar description! Many of the newest toques are domeshaped : others are straight and without any brims, but creased into odd shapes and made very high by the enormous bows and straight loops of ribbons used as trimming. , ' Yet others are of soft straw with, fat velvet horns, so that tho wearer gives one the impression that she is a gnome out by mistake in a glaring world. JUVENILE STYLES. After the "little girl” fashions of last year, when simplicity was, in vogue, the tables, wo find, are turned in favour of the child, whose dresses are so like her mather's that only tho distinction "Mi&Ses” attached to- them singles tfiem out .Tom grown up styles. Narrow skirts are made to encase frisky young legs that will probably do anything but bless thoir skimpiness, black silk and velvet coats . for girls are exhibited, much trimmed, and weird shaped hats for young people are in fashion, tunics also—in fact, the dress bill for a girl of thirteen could be—were her parents foolish enough—almost as big as her mother’s! LINGERIE. One of the prettiest conceits in lingerie is the use of spotted, cambric, instead of plain nainsook dr linen. Complete sets are made of the dainty material , trimmed with fine lace threaded with ribbons. Tho spot somehow seems to impart a more elaborate appearance to the garment than did the plain material. .