LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1289, 12 November 1896, Page 16

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

(From Our Own Correspondent.) Regent street, August 22. Amongst so much that is flimsily frivolous, wild and weird, in headgear at the present moment, it is quite refreshing to come across a rationally pretty hat or bonnet; and many will turn with relief thiß summer to the friend of laug syne (and for apparently all time), the sailor hat, for its simplicity and usefulness ; though there be some so foolish as to trim even these shapes with utterly inappropriate massing of tulle, flowers and feathers. Such confections being distinctly bad style, we would warn any indiscreet damsels—if there be any such amongst our readers —to shun any temptations in this direction, and preserve the sailor-hat in strict simplicity and good form at the.same time. We are nothing just now'if we are not French in our style, and some very favourite shapes which are French, and yet not unlike the immortal sailor shapes, are fully trimmed. A moderate and extremely pretty example of this chapeau is given in Fig. 1. The shape, as I have already stated, is on sailor lines, with a

A Pretty Summer Hat. broad round brim and low round crown ; and it is composed of navy blue tuscan. The brim is bound at the edge by navy blue velvet. Navy blue chiffon folds round the crown, and forma tilmy folds and bow upon bow on either side of the front, with smaller chou of the same at the back, and yet again under the brim. On the left side a group of waving crimson poppies form 3 the finish of a most becomingly tasteful hat, which would lend itself very successfully t'j a great variety of occasions.

The latest idea—which oddly enough originated in Parisian milliners' fertile brains —ia the " Jameson " hat. This, of course, is colonial in character, of the lightest and coolest description, and will probably become immensely popular with young girls for park, garden party, river or race wear, being shady and becoming. A pretty Jameson chapeau is introduced in Fig. 2 of chalk-white tuscan straw, trimmed with pale pink and yellow rosea and white tulle. The gown with which it

A Stylish Gown Wkh New Sleeve. is worn is exceedingly stylish, and introduces a new sleeve. The skirt of this charming dress is of tan coloured canvas, the gaugod Hleeves of the same. The bodice and over sleeves are of tan-coloured velvet. The jabot and ruffles (the former caught by two 1 paste buckle's and a waist-i-ibboji of tan ribbon) are of salmon-pink chiffon.

In Fig. 31 give a bodice much on the same lines, inasmuch as the sleeves are tight fitting, the breadth of shoulder being attained by a series of narrow capelettes. The gown itself is of black " bark'/, crepon, the collar, waist-belt, ruffles and shoulder frills being of white embroidered chiffon. The bonnet is of black ribbon velvet, with pink carnations, the parasol of black and pink striped silk. This is a charming and very ladylike costume for afternoon calls or promenade. Short skirts are a notable feature of this season's introductions. Whether the cycling craze or the Healthy and Artistic Dress Union's agitation or what has brought thip about, who shall say ? The fact remains that they are worn for walking purposes decidedly short. This may be healthy, but whether it is artistic depends upon the wearer. A young slender girl with small feet in pretty shoes would persuade us one way ; while a stout lady with substantial feet and an equally

substantial indifference on the subject of boots might change our views on the subject. As we know, however, that the short skirt is to be our portion for some months to come at least, we can prepare

A Stylish Cr

epox Gown.

ourselves to make it as attractive as possible in our own individual cases. One dainty mode is to line the skirt prettily—say a black skirt with pale mauve or pink, a brown with pale yellow, and so on—so that on breezy days the hem reveals a bit of harmonious colour. Then the all important subject of stockings and shoes must absorb our attention, of course, to meet the exigencies of the ca3e, and we need have no difficulty in this respect, as theso are halcyon days for such requirements of the neatest and prottiest description at the most moderate prices. It is always"))!} ter economy to buy a really good shoe though ; atid quite possible to achieve something pretty and dainty without overstepping good taste by being showy. As in gloves, a good shoe will allow of a smaller size being worn. Gloves or shoes too small for wearer look decidedly vulgar.

August 29.

When such glorious sunshine as we have had this summer in England sheds its refulgence around us, we realise that a summer hat is no longer a polite fiction, but a necessary fact ; and proceed without loss of time to give up further trilling with the matter and go in for something really light and capable of affording shade before wo are prostrated by headache from the over-weighted massively trimmed chapeaux we have been suffering gladly in the cause of fashion, and the discovery that we are freckled beyond recovery for months to come.

A thorough summer hat is an appropriate subject, therefore, for my millinery sketch, and an exceedingly pretty one is shown in Fig. 1. The shape is of chalkwhite tuacan straw, with a tiny conical crown and very broad shady brim. A ruching of pale pink tulle runs along the edgo of the brim, another round the base of the crown ; and from the latter a small cluster of very large pale pink carnations and their rich, greert spikey leaves stands up ; while pale pink tulle strings come from a big chou a't the back from under

A Summer Hat. the brim, and tio in a large Huffy bow on tho left side : these tulle strings being a French conceit. They look pretty, and give a little additional character. This is a hat which calls up visions of garden parties, river delights, and. the various "good times" summer brings to the many bright and pretty girls who are not too "new" or superior to enjoy such frivolities. The now " Sacque" coats, which, if poß?essing no real art qualities, are at any rate comfortable and very easy to slip over our complicated up-to-date bodices, are fast gaining ground for morning wear. Tolerable beforo lunch time, they look, however, just a trifle too neglige for the afternoon, when one infinitely prefers to see one of the new summer shoulder capcß much befrilled and embroidered. The round shape in blurred chine silk and billowy liaae is waxing just a wee bit common across the Channel ; so English women will consequently much prefer

adopting the following design lance by a very big Parisian house with exclusive ideas. * L'Elegante 'is a dainty garment in rich black Duchess satin, fashioned squarely on the shoulders and in a long '* 1830 " point back and front. From the throat to the waist the mantle is slightly different to the portion showing in my sketch, the black tulle frilling being carried down on either side instead of the black satin ribbon straps that develop so stylishly into a long sash behind. A shaped tulle frill, lightened with an edging of cream Valenciennes, encircles the neck, and the cape is embroidered handsomely with seed-jet. Some houses

L'Eleoante. are trying to set the fashion of skirts composed of three gigantic frills ; while other establishments have already started the vogue of jupes, with a horizontal trimming just under the hips, and one huge volant meeting this. This stylo is in no wise becoming to the figure, and apparently takes several inches off the wearer's height. The only horizontal additions on a skirt should be a soft ruching or one or two narrow frillings round the hem.

Nothing could be prettier or more fascinating than the delicate colouring of this summer's fabrics, they are, too, so charmingly light and delicate of texture, and it is scarcely possible to imagine anyprettier in uowns than those now to be seen in society's haunts. The one blot on the otherwise delightful models of taste and elegance is the gaudy headgear ;

A*'Tep,nqon Gown. but possibly thia severe attack of bad taste and style may exhaust itself by its very violence before it has succeeded in spoiling many more (otherwise charming) toilettes, and then the summer of '96 may be handed down to posterity aa one of the prettiest dre3B seasons on record. Black and white is one of the most effective combinations possible, and is being much used this summer. A;" extremely pretty dress for aftorn,oo,n specially suitable for a young girl, is sketched in Fig. 3 of- black and white striped glace silk. The bodice is a full one to the waist, where it is encircled by a tie and ends of black ribbon velvet. The oleeves are luo3e and full to the elbow, from whence full deep white lace ruffles fall. The throat is cut square, a lace ruffle edging it, and an insertion of black velvet ribbon heading a broad full cape-collar of white lace, while a butterfly bow of the velvet alights on the left shoulder.

Smoking amongst English ladies appears, judging by the elaborate smoking jackets'shown by smart modistes and ladies' tailors, far from on the wane. Apropos of smoking women, the young Czarina has a great objection to this habit amongst the ladies of the Russian Court, and hoped her example might persuade them to abandon it. This not having proved a sufficient deterrent, however, she has made a regulation recently entirely forbidding any of the feminine community in or about the palace to smoke. Roselle. The procession in connection with the installation of the Lord Mayor of London was, as usual, a brilliant spectacle.