LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1265, 28 May 1896, Page 15

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

/Vow Our Special ('orrr.spniulchl. Regent street, April 18. The velvet hat is a thing net to bo trilled with; it must be good entirely from the edge of its brim to the top of its crown, or it must be left severely alone ; being one of those (to the impecunious) trying items of dress that decline to ho cajoled into any amiable deception, and proclaim their cheap failure aggressively to the most casual observer. My advice, therefore, to those consumed with a desire for a velvet hat, if they are not prepared to launch into the very best silk velvet for its wherewithal, and trimmings of an equally opulent character, is—like Mr Punch’s “ to those about io marry ” —don’t. In Fig. I I show a black velvet hat which is exceedingly stylish and becoming. The shape lias a broad round brim edged with cut jet; the crown is of the jam-pot form. Broad black and white striped velvet ribbon is drawn across the front, fastened on either side by cut jet buckles, from whence it spreads to right and left in long broad loops ; and from tho left springs one of tho big osprey aigrettes so much de rigueur now. Tho genuine aigrettes have become no trilling ornament (considering that they are but a

passing fashion of the hour), as six, eight and ten shillings is demanded with much calmness for them now; though imitations are, of course, very much less.

Apropos of the hair loose at tho sides, wo are beginning to accept the inevitable style—which tho Parisians and Americans havo long resigned themselves to, but which our English girls havo been slow to adopt with any generality—tho parting down tho middle and profusion of curls or waves on either side, as in tho days of tho first Empire. AYo have even come to tho little side combs, at which wo should havo absolutely shrieked a few months back— as the tortoise-shell incarnation of all that was old-fashioned and frumpish ; and they are decorated, too, with a row of diamonds, or paste, along the top, that they may not pass unnoticed. The fanatics on fashion would far rather appear to advantage in faco or figure than bo one iota out of the latest mode of course; but coyness in adopting this particular mode of hair is easily understood on tho part of the more rational, as it is really most unbecoming in general, besides having the disastrous effect of adding years to the wearer’s appearance.

For those feminine members of tho community who are not too liberally endowed with this world’s goods, and yet havo a littlo social status to maintain, and to “show themselves” —like Mr Turvydrop —amongst their wealthier compeers, the dual capo, which is lacing used a good doal now, is a boon. These useful little cloaks are made reversible, tho one sido being suitable for smart day wear, the other for evening, theatre, or dance. An example is given in Fig. 2. The day sido is composed of olive-green broche silk, and the lining (which forms the evening side) is pale pink satin. Tho whole is bordered with black Thibet fui, placed quite at tho edge so that it shows for either side or purpose, Ono of the new Oriental velveteens would look well, too, for the day sido, with satin of the most prevailing shade for the evening (or lining), edged with black Thibet; or, again, velvet or good velveteen of a good day colour, lined with satin tho same shade, and edged with a harmonising fur.

At many of tho chic premieres where most of the best gowns first have their sortie, we have noticed tho ever increasing popularity of the Louis XV. evening coat. Recently at a very swagger theatre, a well-known society beauty, seated in the stalls, sported aj jacket in grosgrain which displayac[_&.

■wondrous pattern of shaded pink roso3 and foliage. The basque was short and full, revealing a lino of petal-coloured satin; there wore wido revers and a gathered cream chiffon vest, whilo under the hightabbed collar was a double frill of the soft lisse enframing the throat in the most delightfully picturesquo manner. But to frocks that wo may wear in the daytimo when the choice of a really becoming gown is more difficult than the selection of clothes for the evening with its consequent artificial lights that always idealise even ordinary materials. Foremost amongst all shades of violet is the strong “ pansy ” colour, which, in rich velvets and satins, appeals to the dowager-type of woman, but which, if carried out in lightly woven silks or soft linrjcs, is one of the most charming muances for a young girl. I close to-day’s column with a vicuna frock “ pansy ” in colouring. It has pleated “fan” insertions in the skirt, and about the hem are fancy jet trimmings repeated discreetly on the bodice, which lias just a suggestion of mink-tail round the throat and at the wrists. The front is very daintily pleated on each side ; indeed, in so simplo and yet elegant a stylo that the corsage is decidedly a girlish one The dress is, moreover, to lie worn by a damsal who has all the freshness of “ sweet seventeen.” ItOSELLB.