CUBA IN TIMES OF PEACE.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1263, 14 May 1896, Page 38

CUBA IN TIMES OF PEACE.

LITERATURE HAS REACHED A HIGH STATE OF DEVELOPMENT THERE. Ha van-a, March 18.

This, the capital of Cuba, is tho centre of art and literature, and Cuba numbers brilliant poets and writers, whoso fame has spread throughout Europe and Spanish America. One of her poets in now a member of tho French Academy, and takes n proud stand among the " Forty Immortals." Jose Maria Heredia bears the same name as the famous author of the " Ode to Niagara," an ode unsurpassed in literature as the most magnificent and sublimo description of that masterwork of nature, Niagara Falls. No artist has ever reproduced so faithfully on canvas the blue sky of Cuba and its marvellous tropical scenery as Chartrand, one of Cuba's most gifted sons. However, it is not my purpose to dwell on the literary and artistic features of Cuba in this article, but to sketch the manners and customs of Cubans, particularly the Havaneso. The first stone, or site, of Havana, was laid in the early part of 1519, and in some portions of tho city traces still remain of the crumbling ruins of walls which once guarded tho town, while the distinction is yet made between the old and modern quarters by calling tho former within tho walls and the latter outside the walls.

Havana, in some parts, reminds one of the old Latin quarter in Paris. The streets are narrow, sidewalks infinitesimal, with barely room for a foot passenger, while tho buildings are high and close together. The modern part, called outside the walls, is better laid out, and there are many handsome residences, witli wide portals, piazzas, balconies, spacious rooms, marble floors, high ceilings and apartments overlooking large courts, with fountains, plants and flowers to render tho atmosphere cool and fragrant. Within the court there is usually a bath, somewhat after the fashion of Roman baths, handsomely and luxuriously fitted out with all tho requisite appointments, tho pavement and bath being inlaid in mosaics. "the ever faithful isee."

The Cuban aristocracy have always lived in great style, koeping up establishments suitable to their rank. Some families havo been compelled to reduce their expenditures of lato years, owing to the impoverished condition of tho island, produced by tho insurrections and struggles for independence, which have been of frequent occurrence in the " Ever Faithful Isle," as Cuba is called.

Nearly all tho children of the upperclasses are educated abroad, particularly iu Paris, which Cubans, as well as many Americans, consider Paradise on earth. A. large number are educated in the United States, where they havo imbibed American ideas. And there are a great many Cuban families who have taken up their residence in Now York and in Paris.

Cubans are cosmopolitan and exceedingly fond of novelty and travel. The men arc vivacious and like gaiety and amusement, while the women are languid and listless as a rule. In their family relations the latter are true and constant, and pass the greater part of their time at home, while the men are at their offices or clubs. Cuban women are noted for their beauty, of an Oriental type, but there are some lively Chilian blondes, with golden tresses, blue eyes and fair complexions, as fair as Goethe's Marguerite. The Montalvos, of the Cuban aristocracy, wdio derive their title from one of the oldest in Spain, are noted for their fair women,

remarkable for their milky white, satinlike skin, golden hair and high bred aristocratic features. Several Cuban beauties were allied to royalty by their marriage to scions of the Bourbon race in Spain.

Women in the higher circles are votaries of fashion, and import their gowns from some famous French modiste. They are particularly fond of rich jewels, and on some grand occasions a Cuban dame is decked with diamonds worth IOO.OOOdoIs. As tho Catholic faith is the State religion in Cuba, as well as Spain, the best training for Cuban girls is acquired at some good convent. iiavanese mex are small. People reared in large cities are not so robust as those who live in tho country, and this may account for tho fact that as a rule the natives of Havana are small, somewhat effeminate, and have small feet and hands, while their brothers in the eastern, western and southern districts are large, hardy and robust. Cubans are fond of danciner, and their danza consists of a slow, languid movement to plaintive music, sad and sweet, with a peculiar rhythm, to which the dancers keep step, slowly gyrating, without lifting their feet from the floor. However, nowadays this dance, somewhat voluptuous in its movement, is no longer considered good form in society. Several prominent members of the Cuban aristocracy bear Irish names, as their forefathers were of Irish extraction and settled in Spain—viz., Count O'Farrell and the Marquis O'Reilly.

Grocers have been so successful in trade in Cuba that there is a Spanish verse as follows:

Abuelo, bodeguero, Padre, caballero, Nijo, Pordiosero. Grandfather, grocer, His son, a gentleman, And grandson, pauper. This is similar to Daniel Webster's apothegm that in the United States there is only one generation between the shirt sleeves—that is, between those who havo to work.

Rich young Cubans usually choose law or medicine among the professions or engage in commercial pursuits. A few enter the army and navy, but the most coveted offices under the Government are hold by Spaniards. Until the outbreak of the war now going on deputies were sent to represent the island at the Cortes. The island is rich in natural resources. Its mountains have never been prospected because of the lack of railway facilities and absence of local enterprise. There aro vast forests of precious woods, numerous mines which havo never been worked out, and land which has never been tilled. LIFE IN THE COUNTRY. Country lifo is patriarchal, and the people aro hospitable, and, in times of peace, visit between the widely-separated estates. Some of the country dwellings are very handsome, and supplied with every luxury man could desire. It is a rather weird sight on a dark night to watch tho negroes grinding sugar cane, preparatory to boiling the juice for sugar. As they pass in and out with their heavy loads;, their dusky, half - naked bodies lighted up by the glow from the fire, they appear as wild and gruesome as some vision of tho night. Their low, monotonous, but musical, chant adds to tho novelty of the scene.

Moonlight in the tropics is bright and silvery, and so radiant one can easily read by its light. But Diana is considered malevolent oven to her admirers, for it is dangerous to sleep in her rays. It is said that they produce a fever, and even incline one to lunacy afterwards. There does appear to be a subtlo connection between luna and lunacy. Many of the traditional customs, such as tho extravagant observance of Carnival and King's Day, have died out. Somo years ago Cuban ladies would drive out in handsome equipages, with spans of horses and outriders in handsome costumes, while the eoachmon and footmen woie powdered wigs. Havana beauties would attire themselves in fancy dress, powdered hair and painted cheeks, resembling the aristocratic dames of the court of Franco during the reign of the Louis. The line of carriages would extend for mill's through tho drives and principal streets. Put that pageant is now a dream of the past, as well as the celebration of King's Day and Epiphany, whim negroes in their war paint, seminude and grotesque, would disport themselves to the sound of uncouth and barbaric instruments, their dusky bodies contorted as they danced through the streets with banners, appealing to their masters for largess.—Julius Chambers.