Ladies' Column.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 220, 27 November 1875, Page 3

Ladies' Column.

A celebrated writer of vaudevilles, being caught in a shower, took shelter under a portico. A very pretty girl soon lifted the window, and, after looking at him attentively for a moment, sent out a servant to him with an umbrella. The next day the delighted author got himself up in his most fascinating style, and, as the umbrella was an old one, he laid it aside as a souvenir, purchased a new one of the costliest taste, and called on the lady to return her flattering loan. She received the new umbrella, evidently without remarking the change, and after listening with curious gravity to the rather pressing tenderness of the dramatist’s acknowledgements, she suddenly comprehended that he was enamoured of her, and forthwith navely exclaimed that, as lie had stood in the way of a gentleman who wished to come to see her unobserved, she had sent him the umbrella to get him off the front steps. Australasian.

A lady lecturer in South Australia, a Miss Turner, says some rather smart things. She has chosen for a topic “ 111-used men,” and Socrates has been amongst her illustrations ; but she takes rather an original view of the “ill-usage” that venerable old gentleman received. "She thought—if the remark might be ventured—that the accusers of Socrates had received very great provocation. Of course it was not for us to venture to approve of the murder as a means of ridding society of a bore, or comparatively few people would be left alive at that rate. There was no disputing the fact, with all our reverence for Socrates, that he_ must have been to his contemporaries a bore of considerable magnitude. In the first place; he believed he had a mission. Few of us but had suffered from people who had missions, who would follow a victim to the house of mourning or feasting, and would fasten on one at the most inconvenient times, as that tiresome old seafaring person the Ancient Mariner did upon the wedding guest. Here the lecturer descanted upon the peculiar character of the self-imposed mission of Socrates, and said no doubt it did one good to be reminded of one's ignorance, but like many good things, it was particularly disagreeway in which Socrates pursued his mission, Jdiat the citizens considered a bowl of hemlock the only efficacious method of stopping those painful crossexaminations.” GOODWOOD TOILETTES. The toilettes worn on the Cup Day at Goodwood far surpassed those to be seen on the other days, the one reason being that the weather was delightfully warm and the day cloudless, and the other that the ladies always reserve their brightest plumage for the Cup Day, either at Ascot or Goodwood. The ladies with their friends partook of luncheon chiefly seated underneath some shady tree, where they formed very picturesque groups. It is not too much to say that themajority wore white or cream color—white silk, white muslin, white Surah, white tussore, white gauze, and white crepe de Chine, in every imaginable form and arrangement, though complicated combinations and effective contrast were adopted by many of the grand™ flames. Amongst the latter were the Princess of Wales, whose dress was composed of color paille, a delicate tint, arranged with prune, and the Duchess of Teck, who wore a costume of pale blue with black. Lady Dudley’s dress was of the palest possible shade of rose pink, quite a flesh color, very unique in character; Lady Astley wore a costume of white, arranged with bows, etc., of blue ; the Princess Edward of Saxe-Weimar, the Countess of March, and the Duchess of Manchester wore very elegant toilettes. One lady had a lovely dress of ivory colored silk arranged with black velvet and white lace, which was very becoming ; and another rather similar in stylo was of soft white silk, arranged with dark violet velvet; the sleeves, train, and part of the bodice being of the velvet. It was remarked that the trains of thedresses were, if possible, worn longer than ever, and the waists narrower than ever. Several skirts were of velvet, with crepe or tussore tunics, though the chief arrangement of the toilettes appeared to be to so blend the two materials employed in such a manner into one whole, that it was impossible to say exactly which was the principal feature in the gown. This remark applied equally to the muslin costumes, as, for instance, one dress, which was of brown muslin —a sort of fawn shade—was arranged with white muslin ; but whenever white muslin was employed, the brown was placed underneath with drawing of brown muslin above, and vice versa ; it was a cunning arrangement, but entirely successful. The skirt was made chiefly of small gathers, partly fronee and partly plaited 0. la Marguerite, with sashes of pink and cafe au lait. One remarkable dress was of rose and light hrown satin ; the long train was of alternate breadths of the two colors, fronee half-way up; scarves of white lace were drawn carelessly across the front and caught up at the side rather high with rosettes of rose satin ; the rest of the front of the skirt was trimmed with small flounces of white lace with plaitings of rose satin ; the pelerine was also of white lace, turned down the back with a cascade of rose and brown bows ; the small bonnet of brown straw was trimmed with leaves and b.ight birds perched on the brim at the back, with rose-colored plumage, the bandeau being of white lace, and strings of the same fastened with a diamond brooch. One dress of pale blue was trimmed with silver braid, and embroidery with blue silk fringe ; it was made with a pelerine cape, bordered with deep fringe and frayed ruches of silk ; the blue silk hat almost resembled a jockey’s cap, but without a peak; it was encircled with feathers. FASHIONS FOR SEPTEMBER. “Le Follet” says the autumn materials and facons are well adapted to the sudden variations of temperature to which we are subject. Toilettes made of two different materials, or patterns, are more in demand than ever. The same faille skirt that, on a warm sunny day, we should see with a tablier of bouillonne grenadine, and an elegant fichu of the same, would, if the weather were colder, be accompanied by a sleeveless casaque of some brown or white, or ecru mixed material, and an elegantly arranged tunic of the same. Of these mixed materials, there is an immense variety worn, the favorites being vicuna, bege, fine flannels, zephyr, tartans, diagonales, a rather stiff woollen fabric, striped on the cross ; damask casimir, a new material very silky and shiny in effect; and several old friends with new names. Fine flannels in checks or stripes make charming tunics and bodices, over plain underskirts. Striped vicuna cloth, over faille, also makes a very elegant and suitable travelling costume. Self-colored vicunas and beges of iron grey, stone grey, or almond color, are being made by our best modistes, trimmed with bands of bright colored cachemire, dahlia red, light blue, Ac. These are very effective and novel. On dark colored materials the dead silver braid looks very distingue. Black is also most elegantly worn, and no lady’s wardrobe, however limited 'it may be, ss without that most useful of toilettes, a black grenadine, These dresses, so cool and light, admit of a great variety of changes ; they are worn over black, with colored ribbons, or over color. The indoor and habbilles outdoor toilettes are worn with very long trains ; the walking skirts are not nearly so long, but still they are trained; though slightly. The long loose trains over underskirts of a more moderate length are certainly the most convenient fashion ever introduced, as they combine the elegant appearance of the train with the convenience of a skirt, walking length, as the loose train is easily raised by the hand. Morning dresses for outdoor wear are charmingly arranged with a mixture of materials and styles, the pattern being reserved for the upper dress. Fine flannels made in broken checks will bo very well worn, also striped and checked toilc de Vichy trimmed with embroidery. "White and black striped serges for the sous-jupe, with tunic and corsage of plain white, with black velvet revors and cuff's, will be very bein portes at some of the fashionable watering places, All these dresses have outside pockets, either fastened to the dress or pendant from the waists. Skirts very tightly tied back in tho ungraceful way some ladies, even to exaggeration, had adopted, are no longer worn by the grand monde. The dress .skirts are cut to produce this effect, only in a much' more modified style. Of the thousand varieties of tunics and tablier.s wo can say nothing new, though new patterns are being constantly introduced, they are only alterations from those wc already know. The fashion of trimming the dress down each side is in very .great favor. Bouil-

lonnos aro universally worn, especially for good materials. _ The coulisses are going a little out of favor, having become so very general. Plisses arc not so full as formerly, but are much worn. Crossway tucks, overlapping one another and turned upwards, are also in very great favor, as are biais interlaced. If tliu trimmings are of striped or chocked materials, they should Du cut on the cross. Flounces alternatively gathered and plaited form a very elegant trimming. Of the garnitures not made of the same material as the dress, nothing can he more elegant or more fashionable than fringes ; these are excessively handsome, with very elaborate headings; they are often made with two colors introduced. Ribbons, either silk or velvet, are in great request; in fact we never remember to have seen them so profusely worn. Ihe manteau de cour train is in as great favor among leading elegantes as ever. It is, of course, only adapted to silk and similar rich materials. The Abesse ' skirt is very new, and meets with great favor. Tiie “Marie Stuart” bodice is also a great novelty. Charming mantles and wraps arc being prepared for the cool days this month and next. Some are very elegant and elaborate, notably those of light cachemire, braided in silver and edged with curled feathers. One shown us was of turquoise blue Siciliemie, braided in silver, and edged with curled feathers unilyed. Chocolate or prumc de .Monsieur, braided in silver, is very elegant and in quieter style, lor less dressy toilettes the black cachemire embroidered in colored silks, or a mixture of black and gold braid, are very elegant. The travelling and sea—beach confections of this species are made of flannel, niolleton, fancy cloths, Ac. ; they are plain color or have a fancy pattern, and are edged with a wollen ball or tassel fringe. Many ladies with plaid shawls are having them made into these wraps. Hats are worn to shade the face much more than has been tiie ease lately ; in fact, that now seems the only distinguishing difference, for the same shape worn over tho head is a hat, and worn back, to show tiie hair, a bonnet. Of course the hats with large loose brims are in admissible at the seaside, as strong gust of wind would make them very unpleasant; the brims, therefore, whether left straight, round, or turned up at any part, are always firm. Wings are very much worn as ornaments. A now garniture lias been introduced also, in the form of a half handkerchief, apparently netted in silk cord, with tassel fringe ; this is worn loosely tied round tho hat, fastening a wing at one side, and hanging on the back ; it can also be worn loosely round the throat There is some idea of introducing half shawls of the same, to be worn as pointed tabliers.