Cairo – City of Contrasts

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXVII, Issue 23601, 9 March 1940, Page 6 (Supplement)

Cairo - City of Contrasts

Annual Marriage Feast In An Arab Village

By JAIN KIRK

QAIRO, the city of mystery, does not reveal its secrets to the ordinary tourist; but during her visit to Egypt some time ago, Mrs Hyder, of Lower Hutt, Wellington, had opportunity to penetrate beneath the surface and to gain a more intimate knowledge of the Arab, his traditions and mode of life. The Egyptians live, save, and work for the hereafter, and this strange and extraordinary city of the dead is a monument, literally and metaphorically, of all that they have prepared for in life. Only those who once inhabited the city are buried there. In each room of the houses there are several brilliantly coloured vaults and monuments, inscribed with the names of the departed. The relatives visit there at night and take food for the sustenance of the departed, otherwise, they believe, they would starve. Marriage "En Masse!" A greater contrast to this city than that presented by an Arab village near Cairo, which the travellers visited for the annual marriage feast, it would be difficult to imagine. This feast is held on the first day in October when tho moon is full, the ceremony being incorporated in the religious beliefs of the Arabs, and the village in which this one took place was about threequarters of a mile from the Pyramids. Few English women have participated in such an experience, and the visitors felt like Royalty, for the village band played exuberantly in welcome! The friendly and informative guide, who was a son of the chief of the village and to whom they owed their invitation, escorted them to a sort of hall, where Arab girls danced on a hard sand floor with the abandon typical of their race. Their movements wore sinuous, their dancing was very similiar to that of the Maoris in Mrs. Hyder's opinion, and they confined themselves to a very

small space. The visitors were then escorted by their guide to his brother's home, where they were most graciously received. Their host was a dealer in the exotic perfumes of the East, and they found themselves in a seething mass of humanity comprising Egyptians, Arabs and French. Stewed Camel and Rose Pudding The visitors were asked what they would like to eat, and in reply to their inquiry as to the menu were given the choice of stewed camel, Egyptian beans and unleavened bread. They decided to try camel, and like their fellow guests partook of it with their hands. According to Mrs. Hyder, it was like "an old tough piece of beef!" The name of the dessert which followed—rose pudding, suggested something of the mystery and romance of the East, and it at least was delicious, being similar to blanc-mange and flavoured with oil of rose leaves. But perhaps the glamour of anticipation somewhat evaporated when the host clambered under the one and only bed —a huge affair, and hauled out the pudding! The Persian tea which followed, however, tasted like some wonderful elixir. It was a lovely golden colour, looked like heated golden syrup, and was served in tiny gold-rimmed goblets, >vithout sugar or milk. Next came a visit to the home of the guide's mother, where they were again hospitably received. Preparations had been made by the hostess for the entertainment of forty guests. After an interesting time had been spout under this hospitable roof, the guide asked his guests if they would like to drive round the village. As they had ■ travelled much on camel-back, they chose the latter and for hours were driven round the Arab village. There was much dancing, singing and feasting, and they saw several brides. One was in a motor-car, the only vehicle of the kind the village boasted. Mrs. Hyder, who had been struck by the very casual regard of the lordly Arab male for bis women-folk, asked her guide why the Arab men thought , so little of their wives. His reply was that when a girl married the father had to pay a to her husband, hence they preferred boys to girls!