Readers' Problems:—Some Queries Answered

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXVI, Issue 23381, 24 June 1939, Page 10 (Supplement)

Readers' Problems:—Some Queries Answered

Garden Problems.—(l) Is there anything which can be done to make most of the flowers of the gladioli spike como out at the same time? (2) Does the name Wichuriana refer to a class of roses, or to one particular rose? (3) You recommend sulphur for onion mildew, wettable sulphur for grapevines, and Dowers of sulphur for roso mildew. What is the difference between these different forms of sulphur? (4) Docs the Satsuma plum need a pollinator? (5) The reason for carnation blooms bursting down one side instead of opening properly? Is there any remedy? (6) How should I manure peonies that have been some years in the one place.— Gardener/' Hamilton East. (l) The lower blooms are shaded as. they come out. This can be done by fastening a cylinder of paper round the spike attached to'a stake by means of drawing pins. As the blooms come out, the paper is moved upward, keeping them shaded. (2) i lie name Wichuriana is applied to a class of roses. The characteristic of this class is the making of strong shoots from the base each season, which flower the following season. After flowering these shoots are cut out to make room for tho new growths. (3) Satsuma is self-fertile, but it is always advisable to havo more than ono plum. Burbank, Sultan or cherry plum would bo good companions. (<1) Wettable sulphur can be mixed «"th water, but the ordinary flowers of sulphur will hot, otherwise both can bo used for the same purposes, (">) Some varieties of carnations are prone to the calyx-splittiiif? habit, and should be got rid of in favour of the non-splitting types. When it is seen that a bud is starting to split down one side, slightly nick the opposite side with a penknife bctweon the calyx teeth; the bud will then frequently wen well when the pressure is relieved. (G) Give a, good mulch of wolldecnyed manure now. Tho mulch should be three inches thick, and kept away from the crown of the plants. Leave a ring of soil of at least one foot in radius round the plants. The winter rains will wash the nutriment down to th,e roots. Do not dig it .in round the plants, or :tho roots may be injured. Thanks for your appreciation, and glad that you find these columns useful. Anemones Failing.—'Would you kindly advise: (1) The causo of anc-moncs coming up with a brown, parched look and not growing well? (2) What is tho matter with poppies when the buds turn brown and rot off? Some of the leaves havo dona this also. Can anything bo done to stop this? Specimens enclosed.—A.A.F., Otorohanga. (1) I am afraid that your anemones are affected by anemone rust, for which thore is no cure. (2) Collar rot is responsible for tho poppy trouble. Water tho plants with a solution of Cheshnnt Compound, ono ounce to two gallons of water. 1. ® ea,B °* Citrus.—What is the name of the disease or oost that has attacked the , t ! nr ,'enionsP The fruit is covered with red spots, leaves and twigs also. Is it r i How often would you suggest 1?. hj» k an? 1» al .'*Jl at 1 stronuth? Would the fruit be quite right to use for the house? Specimens enclosed.—J.G.N. Parakai. P c . st . is red scale, and the best means or control is spraying with Bummer spraying

oil about February. Two applications will be necessary at two weeks interval, at a strength of one part oil to 33 parts of water. The fruit will be quite good for household use. Failing Hedge.—l am trying to encourage ar. escallonia hedge to grow close to some pine trees. As the latter impoverish tho ground the hedge is making slow progress. I have placed manuro around without any marked improvement. Could you adviso me what to do to make the hedge grow moro quickly? I cannot cut tho trees down as tboy are not on my property.—"East Coast." The only solution of the difficulty would be to dig a trench between your hedge and the pines, cutting all tho roots encountered. The trench should be left open. The moro manure you apply tho moro the pine roots will como to seek it. Peach Gumming.—(l) A few days ago 1 moved a poach tree. I cut it hack a little when moving, and now it is oozing gum at nearly every branch. Should I spray it and when? (2) What is tho best spray for leaf hopper, which did a lot of damage in my garden last year. Perennial phlox and sweet verbena havo a sticky deposit. Should I spray with red oil to clean this off? I find your page most useful. —"Waipa," Otorohanga. (1) The sap was still rising when tho peach was moved; this has congealed in tho forjn of gum on tho cut ends. It is nothing to worry about and will cease with the fall of tho leaf. Spray the neach with Bordeaux powder. l2oz. to four gallons of water, just before the buds burst in spring, this will prevent leaf curl and other diseases. (2) The lacewing hopper js controlled by spraying with nicotine sulphate two teaspoons to each gallon of water, with enough soap added to make a good lather. Red oil will bo too drastic for the plants mentioned. Tho sooty deposit will disappear with tho fall of tho leaf. Got tho spray to work as soon as the hoppers are seen next season. Fruit Grattlng.—(l) What fruit trees may be grafted one with another? (2) What is the method for making seedling oranges productive? 1 believe they havo to bo budded. Is budding similar to grafting? (3) Where do 1 procure buds to do this; from a tree that is already bearing?—"Waihi." (J) Apples with apples. Pears with pears or quince. Peaches with plujns, or vice versa. There is a fairly long list, but as a rule members of the same species will graft one upon the oilier, hut there are oxceptiqn.s. (2) Seedling oranges should be budded In' October or November with buds from a known good bearing tree. Budding is a method of grafting, except that a siiiglo bud is taken instead of a piece of wood containing several buds, j You should obtain a good gardening work, such as "Practical Gardening in Mew Zealand," which will give you all tho information as well as diagrams of tho operations. (3) Tho buds can ho procured from any good tree in your own neighbourhood if available. If not, apply to a nurseryman or orchardist. Dwarf Hedge.—With reference to your ] reply to my inquiry for a suitable shrub for ! a dwarf hedge, I can modify the conditions with rogard to suckering and layering, provided the hedge can be kept under control without difficulty. The same applies to propagation by seed, as I do not want the shrubs

to become a nuisance in the garden. It is essential, however, that the plants are in no way poisonous to poultry and cattle. — "Shrub," Mangore. Lonicora nitida would fulfil tho conditions. Although it suckers slightly, it keeps compact. flowering is reduced to a minimum so long as the hedge is kept cut and it does not seed freely. In any case it would not bo likely to become a nuinance. The hedge can be kept to three feet by annual topping. Pitting Roots.—l have a good crop of parsnips and carrots and feel that I should store some of them by tho 'pitting method. I have thought of procuring a molasses drum, taking out the top and burying it with the open top about (Jin. below the surface, then fitting a loose waterproof lid and covering with loose earth. Do you consider the roots would keep reasonably well by this method? Would the ventilation be satisfactory? Should the roots be dug and put into the pit at once or partially dried first in order to retard rotting? Would be grateful Tor advice through your columns. —F.G.D., Paengaron. Your system would not bo very satisfactory, owing to lack of ventilation the roots would go mouldy and rotten. Unless you require the ground, the roots are better loft in tho ground and dug as required. Tho roots can bo "pitted" safely in the open ground. Choose a place where water will not bo likely to lie in winter. Lift the roots and stack them crowns outwards in a conical heap, or in a long heap, if there are a large quantity Do not cut the tops olf too closely. Place layers of soil or sand between each layer of roo.s. Finally bank up with soil taken from round the base of the heap. Leave a twist of straw or hay in the top of tho mound for ventilation. If the pit is made in a cool place the roots should keep quite good for a considerable period. With the advent of spring the crowns will, of course, commence to grow. It is not necessary to dry. the roots before "pitting." The less the carro'ts are allowed to lie in the sun tho better, as they are liable to split. Saving Cabbage Sneo. —Would yon kindly publish in your notes, the correct way to save cabbage seed? I havo seen people save their own seed, but it turned out a failure as the plants would not heart. —F.D., Kaitaia. Saving seed of brassira crops is a technical business that is beyond the resources of tho average home grower. All of these species intercross so readily that if there is one plant of another species in the vicinity, jt will upset all calculations and spoil the whole lot. It is not worth while attempting to save your own cabbago seed. Aspidistra Pc3t. —How should 1 remedy tho elate of enclosed aspidistra leaf? I would bo grateful for advice as to treatment. — E.C.McH. The trouble is scale. Use nicotine sulphate two teaspoons to ono gallon of water, with plenty of soap added to make a good lather. Use an old toothbrush to shift the scales, as the insecticide will not be effective unless the scales aro moved. Finally rinso off with clean water laying the plant on its side, so that tho insects do not become washed into the soil.

Identification of Grass, —Will you kindly state identity of enclosed grass? Whether suitable for stock and which soils it thrives' in best? Phalaris canadensis. Canary grass. This is usually regarded as a weed and thrives in almost any soil. Can be found in waste places and on roadsides in a great many localities. Plant is annual and not regarded as of much feeding value. Growing Tobacco. —Can you givo mo any information 011 the growing and curing of tobacco. Could you say if the Government issue any leaflets 011 tile subject? Wo find your page very interesting and useful. — C.H., Mercer. You can obtain a leaflet on the culture of tobacco by applying to tho Department of Agriculture. The process would take up too much spaco to describe in this column. Asparagus Scalo. —Would you advise what to do for the scale 011 my plant? I have washed it with soapy water without any improvement.—M.A.S., Putaruru. The scale is difficult to eradicate from asparagus fern. The best way is to cut off the badly affected fronds and burn them. The remainder of the plant, can then bo treated with nicotine sulphate and soap as advised io ' 13.C. Mcll.,' in this column. Raising Shrubs.—Could you givo 1110 information 011 tho following points: (1) Can Acmena floribunda be raised from seed. If so how is it treated? (2) Pittosporum the same? —M.L.W , Epsom. Both acmena and pittosporum can be raised from seed. Sow the berries of acmena and the seeds of pittosporum in boxes or in wido drills in the >pen ground in spring. Keep the seedlings shaded from hot sunshine. NText autumn tiic seedlings will be largo enough to line out in nursery rows, where the.v should grow for another year beforo being planted out permanently Carrot Fly.—(l) I am sending a sample of carrot. Could you inform 1110 if tho trouble is the result of tho carrot fly, millepede or wireworm, and if the same treatment will apply to each and all of them? Have limed soil freely, added sand to heavy soil, put lawn cuttings between rows, used diluted C'ondy's once and a packet of commercial uuptlialeuc onco. Have purchased moro napthalene and thought it should be dug in now as the carrots must be taken out. I have been fold to put it in before sowing carrot seed. Will you pleaso advise? Should 1 keep samo bed for carrots next season after using napthaIcne, or have a fresh bed? (2) Until last two or three years have had good rhubarb, but since, each summer all the leaves turn red and yellow, and rhubarb almost, useless. In winter it nearly recovers, but not completely. Last winter I dug it up and put in a fresh bed, but the result is tho same. 1 would be glad to know tho reason and cure? "Sunnycroft," Hamilton. fl) The damage is done by the grub of the carrot fly. The application of napthaleiio now may discourage some soil pests, but it will not control tho carrot fly. Tho first brood i>l carrot fly appears about November, and that is tho time when control is most cf-

fcctivo in preventing the fly laying eggs. Napt'ialeno sprinkled along tho rows, or mulching with lawn cuttings prevents tho fly from reaching tho crown of tho young carrots to deposit eggs. Sand impregnated with kerosene or creosoto is also a good deterrent. It would bo better to chooso a fresh place for tho carrot bed. It is a good plan to apply the control Immediately aftor thinning. as tho odour of the carrots attracts tho fly. (2) Mineral starvation is most likely the trouble with tho rhubarb. This crop is a heavy feeler and should havo a good application each autumn. Failing unlimited quantities of animal manures, the following mixture will be of benefit. Three parts superphosphate, five parts sulphate of ammonia and five parts sulphate of potash. Apply at tho rate ol four ounces per square yard. Improving Guavas.—What is best for 1110 to do to improve the quality of my guavas (yellow variety*. 1 have two healthy looking shrubs. The fruit which begins to fall about the middle of May and continues till the end of Juno, varies a great deal in size, but the number includes far too many of small size. Both bushes are crowded with bunches and clusters, smaller berries predominating. (1) Manure what kind and when? (2) Pruning out and cutting ctf branches, lower ones in particular, and when? (3) Thinning out young crop (0 ensure better sizo and quality?—" Yellow Guavas," Auckland. Guavas are like many other fruits, in producing far more fruits than they can bring to successful maturity. (L) Guavas are hungry subjects and will take plenty of manure. The best way is to rake the soil away from the roots during winter. Give a good coating of animal manures, or failing that blood and bono, then replace tho soil. ('2) Very little pruning is required, but if necessary to remove lower branches, this can bo done during winter. CI 1 , Thin out the crop when well set this will improve the sizo. Pruning Bouvarilias. —(I) Will you kindly advise the correct treatment for bouvardias. We are told to cut back after flowering. Just how far back should I cut them? (2) Gerbera treatment. What is the best feed for these and when to n-ply? Which is the peak flowering period? (3) What is the difference between perpetual and other carnations, and which are the best for tho cut flower trade?—"Bayswater." (1) li'onvardias should be cut right back to within a few inches of the ground after flowering. The flowers aro carried on the current season's growth. The exception is the variety known as Humboldtii, ,which should not bo cut back (2) Four parts blood and bone to one part of sulphate of potash applied in spring when active growth starts. Midsummer is usually the peak flowering period. (3) Perpetual carnations are flowering more <.r less all the year. Growths are made from (lie axils of the leaves, carrying flower in due courso. Tho border types of carnati.ui inako a tuft of leaves from which tho flowor stem arises, having Just ono season of flowor. The perpetual!) are the best for cut flower, having a longer season.

Garden Troubles. —(1) Regret that names of trade firms cannot bo given in these columns. (2) I havo some gerberas that are not doing at all well. The leaves are yellowing and dying- off. You rccommended sulphate of potash in one of your notes, which 1 tried without result. The soil is volcanic Can you suggest a reason? Two plants which aro under a daisy hush are doing: well, but tht: ones out in the open, which is sunny, seeni to be going steadily back. (3) I have delphiniums which seem to havo a mildew blight. Would lime sulphur bo good? (4) I find tho blurstone in Bordeaux difficult to dissolve in cold water; would hot bo better?— W.8.D., Epsom. (2) If you could send a samplo of tho gorbera foliage it may be possible to ascertain the cause of tho trouble. As they aro in the full sunshine it may bo possiblo that they were allowed to become too dry during tho summer. This appears to bo the case as the ones in the shade are doing well. Beeauso sulphate of potash was recommended to a correspondent for a specific trouble, it does not follcw that your caso would bo exactly tho same. (11) Lime sulphur 1 in 120 of Bordeaux 4-1-40 will check the mildew. (4) The bluestone will dissolvo much quicker in hot water. Hibiscus Leaf Spot.—Could you inform me what is wrong with my hibiscus plant? (Leaves enclosed.) What spray should 1 use, and at what strength? Tho plant is just coining into (lower. Would the spray prevent it flowering?—" Lilac," Kaiwaka. The trouble is leaf spot, and spraying with lime sulphur will control tho troublo. Apply at a strength of 1 in 120. An application of sulphate of potash will also render tho plant less liable to attack. Use about one ounce per square yard. Spray will not prevent flowering. Bitter Peaches.—l havo three peach trees of the same unknown .variety. The general appearance of the fruit is not consistent with tho bitter tnste, especially near the stone. What would you suggest may bo the cause of tho bitterness, and what would you recommend as treatment for tho same? — "Grateful," Prankton. The most probable cause of tho bitterness round tho stono is that tho peaches hnvo been budded on to Japanese plum seedlings. The bitterness round the stono is characteristic of Japanese plums, and there is really no way of improving the condition. Identification ot Shrub.—Could you identify enclosed shrub and state what is the matter with it? Also, what situation should it be grown inP Should this bo silver blight on tho leaves and I were to cut tho plant well back, would I savo it? Alternatively, if I planted cuttings in a suitablo situation, with good treatment would they recover and become healthy?—P.S., Whakatane. Viburnum tinus, commonly called Laurustinus. The trouble is thrips, to which the plant is very subject. It usually thrives in any situation, lint whore hot and dry, thrips are more porsistent. Cut the plant hard back, burning the top and all dead leaves, then snray with white oil at two per cent strength. Repeated applications will keep tho plant clean.