Readers' Problems:—Some Queries Answered

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXVI, Issue 23275, 18 February 1939, Page 10 (Supplement)

Readers' Problems:—Some Queries Answered

Preparation tor Bulbs.—Reply to your inquiry appeared in supplement of January 21.—M.E.8., Remuera. a

Identification of Fruits.—Will yon kindly Identify the two fruits enclosed, apple fend plum?—F.G.D., Paengaroa. The apple is Gravenstein. The plum was too much damaged to ascertain the variety with any certainty, but the remains appeared to be those of a cherry plnm.

Pruning Tree Tomato. —Will you advise if I should remove a shoot which has grown np from the base of my young tree tomato? If I should, would it be suitable for planting to make another tree? —"'Thank You, Hillcrest. The shoot can bo removed if you wish, and if it has rooted, it will make another plant. If left,/ however, these basal shoots usually outgrow the original plant and make & stronger stem.

Failing Peaoh. —I have a Paragon poach and for the last few years the leaves are a yellow colour. It does not look healthy, nor bear well. Will bo glad if you can advise. —"Paragon Peach," Northcote. The trouble is mineral deficiency. Tho epeciman shows a shortage of manganese. This element is usually present in sufficient Quantity in the soil, but sometimes owing to a high lime content, it is not available to the plant. The easiest way to apply is by the use of permanganate of potash crystals, one ounce to 20 gallons of water, and- givo" the tree a good soaking at tho roots. In the autumn givo additional fertilisers in the form of bonedust or basic , fnper.

Tomato Trouble. —Will you advise what is the trouble with enclosed tomatoes ? The brown mark appears first on the skin, then that part softens, finally crinkling and withering. The plants appear quite healthy and are not all growing in the eamo ground.— "Snowy," Ponsonby. The trouble is scald. With the recent unseasonable weather the fruits become very cold at night, moisture then condenses on them. If the morning sun strikes on the fruit when in this condition, tho rapid evaporation causes scalding. The remedy is to keep the fruit covered with foliage, or shade from early morning Bun until fruits are dry.

Marrow Trouble.—l have a number of marrow plants apparently doing well, but as soon as the flower drops off, the end of the marrow rots. The plants appear strong and healthy with no indication of disease. Could you locate the cause of the trouble and a remedy for it?—E.R. Rotorua. The cause of the trouble is excessive moisture combined with low temperatures. It it possible lor the plants to be too luxuriant.

in that all the sun and air is shut out from the fruit bearing laterals. In such a season as the present this is to be avoided, lbin out some of the growths and even removesome of the larger leaves to let in the sunlight. Do not water overhead, at least, not until the weather conditions are warmer at night.

Colour of Rose.—What colour is the Daily Mail rose? —"Daily Mail," Putaruru. Deep velvety crimson. Native Moth.—The enclosed moth was picked up on a side road in this district. I should be pleased to learn tho species.— F.J.B. Cbaragia virescens. Commonly called the puriri moth.

Lemon Borer. —-We have a Meyer lemon, the main stem. of which is attacked by borer. Is there anything which can be done to save itP—A.S.W., Ruawai.

The injection of benzine into the holes is the only feasible method of control. This can be done by means of a small oil-can, afterwards plugging the holes with clay •to keep in tho fumes. Moss on Paths, —I am troubled with moss growing on a brick path; is there any way of preventing this?—A.W.L., Hamilton. The best method of getting rid of the moss is to water it wiih dilute acid and water. Hydrochloric acid one wineglass to each gallon of water. This will destroy the moss und it should hot appear again for a long time.

Identification of Natives.—Will you please identify the enclosed specimens of native trees and shrubs.—"Waingaro School."

(1) Hedycarya arborea (Porokaiwhlri); (2), Carmichaelia Williamsii; (3), Coprosma rotundifolia; (4), Podocarpus dacryioides (Hahikatea), Juvenile stage; (5), Podocarpus spicatus (matai); (0), Elaeocarpus dentatus (hinau); (7), Hohoria sextylosa (liouliero); (8), Dianella intermedia (turutu).

Hydrangea Flowers. —Can you advise what is wrong with enclosed hydrangea flower P Is there any treatment which can be given to make all the buds open out instead of only a few?—" Novice," Opotiki.

The bloom sent is a fertile ono. The usual kind seen are sterilo or barren flowers. There is no treatment which will alter the plant, and if you do not like it tho better plan would be to it with another.

Preparing Bulb Ground. —Tho only available space I have for daffodils is where I grew them last year. The site has been dug two spades deep and the sub-soil broken up to a depth of 12 inches and given a dressing of lime. Please advise if I can with safety work in somo blood and bone or decayed cow or pig manure.—"Old Irish." The site should be able to grow good bulbs for another season, after the work*

ing. It would not be advisablo, however, to work in the animal manures so near to planting time. The blood and bone would answer the purpose better at the rate of two ounces per square yard. Blossom End Rot.—Will you kindly inform me what tho disease is affecting tho sample of tomato enclosed? I have several fruits going this way, but otherwise the plants soom healthy.—Mt. Roskill. The trouble is blossom end rot. The tomato plants have been allowed to got too dry at the root at a period of a month ago or more. So long as the roots are supplied regularly with moisture there will be. none of this trouble. Spraying is of no use in the control: it rests with the growing conditions.

Kikuyu Crass.—l have kikuyu grass on my lawn and am trying to kill it, or at any rate keep it in check by spraying with sodium chlorate. Will you advise what proportion of water to mix with the chlorate, and can you adviso somo other way of getting rid of the grass other than digging it out? —"Lawn," Ruawai. It is a hopeless task trying to get rid of this grass onco it has obtained a good hold, especially in a lawn. The strength of sodium chlorate as a weed-killer is ono pound to three gallons of water. To lessen the risk of fire in spraying, try one part sodium chlorate to six parts of lime, applied as a dry dust.

Eelworm Prevention.—l have some choice bulbs to plant, and at present I believe that they are entirely free from eelworm. Is there any method of troating tho bulbs so that eel worms will not attack them in tho soil P—"Bulbiover," Auckland. You can treat the bulbs as follows, and whilo it . will not cure bulbs of eelworm, it will to a great extent prevent the eelworms from attacking thom. Dissolve a quarter of a pound of soft soap in ono quart of boiling water. To this add one quart of liquid carbolic and mix thoroughly. Now dilute with 15 gallons of water, and after placing tho bulbs in a thin bag. steop thom in tho solution for two hours immediately before planting.

Fig Leather,—l have a quantity of ripe figs, and although we have made jam thero are still many left. I once tasted a concoction of figs, called, I belive, fig leather. Have you any knowledge of such a preparation, and could it bo home made? —"Interested.,; North Auckland. . /' p Take very ripe figs. Wash and mash to a fine pulp. Spread on plates to dry in the sun or in a slow oven. When the leather is dry, dust with powdered sugar and roll up. Cut into piecos of suitable size and pack into jars. This leather may be eaten ns a confection or soaked in water and used for pies. The powdered sugar may be'leift out if desired. Equal parts of figs and peaches

treated In the same way makes a Rood product. Oleander Flowers. —I havo a red oleander, a healthy, well-grown tree. but it bears few flowers. Only once has it had any quantity of flowers. This was about four years ago during a hot, dry summer. Is there anything which I can do in the way of pruning to produce more bloom?—E.A., Mission Bay. Oleanders flower vory well in many parts of Auckland. They require plenty of sunshine to ripen the wood and a fairly dry position. As the flowers are borne on the torminal shoots, any pruning of these will prevent the blooming. If the tree is too dense, thin it out now by reducing the number of shoots by cutting some clean out at the base, or as near to the base as possible. The remainder will thon becomo well ripened and flower in duo courso on the onds of the shoots.

Ceratostigma Willmottel.— (1) I have a fine bush of this plant; how can I increaso it? Any information as to propagation and treatment will bo welcome. (2) I have been told that a lomon tree should bo left with grass right up to the trunk so that the roots are not disturbed. Do you agreo wjth this? I am in tho habit of keeping a radius of two or three feet round clear of all growth without disturbing the rpots.—M.E.B., Romuera. (t) Cuttings of tho unflowered growths about six inches long can be inserted in sandy soil at tho present timo. The best cuttings will bo from tho sucker-like growths at the base. The plants can also be lifted and divided in early spring, replanting at once. (2) Your method is quite corroct. Grass growing closely round the trees absorbs a lot of moisture which the trees should havo.

Seed Sterilisation. —(1) You advise sterilising tho seed of lettuce before sowing as a precaution against ring spot. Would you kindly explain how to steriliseP (2) I have a young Californian grape-fruit tree. The juice of tho fruit is very acid and sour, and the skin half an inch thick. Will these failings diminish as the tree gets older? —"Ring Spot," Tauranga. (1) The following solutions can bo nsod for seed sterilisation: Copper sulphate, one per cent solution. (IVaOZ. in one gallon of water), immerse 15 to .'3O minutes. Formalin, 1 in 400, immersion 2 hojjrsr with this solution there Is danger of reducing germination unless the seed is sown at once. Corrosive sublimate, half an ounce in five gallons of water, immersion 30 minutes. (2) The grapefruits will improve if they aro cured. Pick the fruits when ready, then wrap each one in paper separately and store in a case in an equable temperature for a few weeks.

Garden Troubles.—(l) I am troubled with diamond back moth in millions, and have tried arsenate of lead without success. (2) A small spider attacks the leaf-tipß. of the orange and apple trees. Inside the doubled

leaf is a small green caterpillar. Have tried Bordeaux and arsenate of lead. (3) Some 01 the grapea are hard and have a brown spot. Will they recover if kept watered? (4) In pruning the vines next season, will I the shoots which havo tho fruit on now? I have kept all young shoots pinched on as they have shown. I have been told that 1 have taken too much foliage off and not left enough to 6hade the bunches. Is this right? (5) What is the correct mixture for ordinary vegetables in my garden of volcanic soil? Super, sulphate of ammonia, sulphate of potasn and lime? Lime is ordinary carbonate, not burned. —"Orchard, Kenkeri. (1) Dust tho plants with a mixture of three parts sulphur to one part of pepper while the folia K o is damp, or dust with derrisdust. Theso can be used alternately, with the arsenate of lead. (2) The trouble is the leaf roller caterpillar. Arsenate of lead is the only remedy, but it must bo applied early in tho season before the caterpillars roll up the loaves, otherwise it is impossible to reach them. Apply the spray at intervals of ten to 14 days. (3) The grapes are affected with mildew and the affocted berries will not recover. Frequent dusting with sulphur or spraying with lime sulphur 1 in 120 will prevent this trouble appearing, but it niust be applied oarly. (4) Tho growths bearing tho fruit this season should be pruned back to two or three eyes at tho winter pruning. Tho sub-laterals shoufd have been pinched at one leaf to leave enough foliage. (5) A good mixture would be four parts super, two parts sulphate of ammonia and one part of eulphato of potash. The limo should bo applied separately in the autumn at the rate of baif a pound to the square yard. Identification of Hedge.—Will you kindly identify the enclosed specimen and would it be suitable for a hedge in a windy position lam told that it '•» called myrtle, is this correct? —"Waimauku. Abelia floribunda. This makes quite a good hedge for an exposed position. The plant belongs to the honeysuckle family and not to the myrtles.

Freak Fern.—Would you kindly advise what is wrong with tho specimen of fern? Instead of the fronds spreading out they seem to have grown together in a mass. The fern has been growing for about four years.— E.K., Epsom. , The condition is what is known as fasciation." Usually the grcwing point is injured in the early stages by a small mite, the cells become displaced, and freak growth is the result/ Zinnia Disease. —Enclosed stem of zinnia affected by a blight of some sort. Can you enlighten me as to what it is and the treatment to give it?—" Epsom." Zinnia leaf This troub! • is aggrav ted by cold, wet conditions In normal summer weather little Is seen of the trouble.

Spraying with Bordeaux powder, one ounce to one gi. lion of water will check the trouble to some extent, but real hot weather is the best preventive, combined with an adequate supply of potash in the soil Cyclamen Treatment.— \Vill you advise the correct treatment a cyclamen needs after dying down. "Whether to water it or not, and how ofien? My plant died down, but it is weakjy breaking out again, as I. have given it water two or three times.— Cyclamen," Milford. I presume Jho cyclamen plant is in a pot or similar receptacle. The best treatment is to stand the pot ''ut of doors in a cool position out of th j sun, and where it will get water when it rains. Growth will make its appearance in due coarse. When two or three good leaves have been made, turn the plant out of the pot, shako all tho soil from the roots and repot in (resh soil. While thefe is no evident growth the ptynt should t.o watered very sparingly, for there is no root action to absorb the moisture.

Spraying Watermelons. —Could I spray the watermelons and what strength? The leaves aro looking rather black, but it may be the cold wind. Should I nip out the ends of the runners to stop tho growth?—P.C.T.K. It is difficult for mo to recommend a spray without knowing what it is required to combat. As a rulo dusting with sulphur or spraying with lirno sulphur 1 in I*2o will take care of such troubles as mildew. If, however, it is virus, there is no cure. It is a good plan to pinch out the ends of the runners about two leaves beyond the fruit. This will increaso tho size of the fruit.

Drying Peaches. —(1) Could you advise if it is possiblo to dry peaches or nectarines? I havo too many to bottle. (2) Bon Chrieten pear was not fruiting well, so I took your advice re bark ringing Result, the next season the tree was .laden. This season there is not one fruit. Should I have bark ringed again?— "Inquirer," Pairero (1) Cut tho fruit in halves, removing the stones, then place cut sido up on trays. If the trays can bo stacked one above tho other over a hole in the ground, a large packing case can bo inverted over them, or a canvas sheet will do. Into tho hole in the ground place a saucer of burning sulphur. Exposo to the sulphur fumes for two hours, then dry as advised for plums in the recent article. The fumigation is to ■ keep the colour, otherwise the fruit goes very dark. The cut fruit should not be exposed to sun or wind until after fumigation, or the quality will suffer. (2) It is not necessary to bark ring each year. You allowed the tree to carry too heavy a crop last season. There will probably be a good crop again next year. It is advisable to thin out somo of tho fruit.. Spray with arsenate of lead half an ounce to one gallon of water to prevent the leech.