IN MEMORY OF THE KING

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXIII, Issue 22346, 18 February 1936, Page 4

IN MEMORY OF THE KING

MOURNING IN ENGLAND BLACK, MAUVE AND GREY Even before the King's command in regard to mourning was issued people were purchasing something black, more or less according to their means and according to the demands of their station in life, wrote our London correspondent on January 25. So strong was the sentiment of love and affection tor King George that men and women were spontaneously eager to show their feelings in this manner. The King's death was known by everyone on the morning of Tuesday, January 21, and the shops were busy all day. The transformation from colour to at least something sable was the desire in the minds of men and women alike.

Shopkeepers, too, were quick to sense what was coming and their windows were dressed accordingly. Everything gay disappeared; everything black or subdued was substituted. Day dress became black or white, or black and white. Men's wear changed similarly, and where gay tones had characterised the dressing gowns, where bright colours had ruled in the tie departments, and coloured stripes were the rule for shirts, all were immediately substituted, and black or grey held sway. The shoe shops are no longer displaying spaikling sandals of gold and silver, or brocades; everything now is in black; even some of the browns do not look right. So complete has been the change that one marvels that such copious supplies of everything should be instantly available. Shortage, when it occurred, was very temporary, for renewals were quickly possible. Fashion Trade Not Affected

About the windows at the moment there seems a sombre grandeur. There are garments that are beautiful as well as those that are practical for everyone. What little colour there is belongs to the family of mauve. In all windows there are portraits of the late King, with wreaths of laurel or palm, tied with bows of mauve ribbon. In other cases the Union Jack forms the background for the Royal portrait, and mourning boards appear at intervals down the window panes. If flowers are used they are usually mauve tulips or white lilies.

It is not anticipated that there will be any great dislocation of the fashion trade at the present time. Stocktaking is in progress, and few orders in hand have been cancelled. The spring fashions will not be generally shown until March, except to trade buyers, and in the interval questions of colour can be reconsidered. Instead of tho bright colours that were expected for the summer, it is not unlikely that white, grey and violet and lavender tones may prevail among the general public. At present all workrooms are busy on black. It is not very likely we shall see bright colours again for a long while.

Colour Council's Guidance In response to requests for guidance, the British Colour Council states that for Royal ceremonial occasions Royal purple and silver-grey are correct tonings. As Royal purple is somewhat difficult to wear, the following colours may be substituted: —Amethyst, plum, egg plant (which is as dark as a luscious French plum). It is probable that these colours, together with bladk and white, will continue to be used for accessories after the period of national mourning.

A frock of purple goes well under a black coat instead of an all black ensemble. Dyers are working overtime, since most of jtlie real silk crepes and fine woollens take a good black dyo extremely well. In the finest Chinese examples of colouring, bright colours are used sparingly and are enhanced by the juxtaposition of beautiful greyed hues. Those latter are typical of "true Chinese art, and fashion will gradually bo affected by tho appreciation of these subtle hues. Eino black veils fallii\g_over the face to the throatlino aro being purchased for mourning wear. There is also the long visor veil which is attached to the hat at the front and sides, and draped with modified fullness from brim to throatlino. Picot edging and fino hemstitched borders are noted. White trimmings can bo introduced in a variety of to relieve plain black, and it is not unlikely that sleeves of patterned material, in black nnrl white, will contrast with tho plain blackness of a house dress.