PEAK CONQUERED

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXIII, Issue 22319, 17 January 1936, Page 6

PEAK CONQUERED

THIRD KNOWN ASCENT PARTY ON MOUNT TUTOKO GRAPHIC STORY OF VENTURE The third ascent of Mount Tutoko, ■which rises for 9042 ft. /ind is the third highest peak in Otago, was recently made by Messrs. J. A. Sim, D. H. Leigh and W. H. Walker, of Dunedin. The mountain lies on the Darran Range on the outskirts of Western Otago, between Martin's Bay and Milford Sound. "We.had been strongly advised," said Mr. Sim, "to try a new approach to the final climb by way of Stick-up Creek as being likely to provide a more direct approach, and we are particularly indebted to Mr. Gordon Speden, of Gore, for photographs and advice which in the result enabled us to reach our objective /.without having to retrace one false step. Our base camp was to be nt the head of Lake McKerrow, about 14 miles from Martin's Bay and quite near to our chosen creek of the not over-encouraging name of 'Stick-up.' Tha Party Sets Out "Leaving Queenstown on Boxing Day, we rode from Elfin Bay to Howden the first day, tramped down the Hollvford Valley to Hidden Falls Hut the second day, and on the evening of the third day, somewhat tired, completed the last stage of the 70-mile journey to our starting point at Lake McKerrow. A day waiting for Mr. Gunn to arrive from Martin's Bay with a boat provided a welcome spell. "At length we set off to do battle with the 3000 ft. of West Coast bush with packs laden with the usual mountaineering impedimenta and six days' food. To describe the bush is impossible; it is one vast hindrance of tangled undergrowth possessing a million arms to hold one ba#k. Lv?ry foot of height gained is a struggle, and a cumbrous, heavy, bulging pack is a nightmare. After seven hours of struggle darkness came, and we slept where wo fell, to arise, jaded, to resume the battle in the morning. BeautHul Upper Valley "B/lunch time we entered the upper . valley by what we are satisfied is the one fault in its armour of encircling bluffs; this, thanks to Mr. Speden's photograph taken from above. This vallev-is very beautiful and at its head lies- Tutoko in all his glory. Another four hours, however, were needed to reach the head because, though beautiful patches of alpine meadow strewn with flowers now appeared, vicious tongues of bush still had to be passed and stores of energy were running low. "At last after a 10-hour day the tent was pitched at the head of the valley. The keas gave us a rousing welcome and two wekas shyly watched our operations. True, we were even now only at 2500 ft., hut the way upward was reasonably clear. Four easy hours the next day took us to 5000 ft. and a bed on granite slabs, whence mounted easy snow slopes to the north-west ridge of the mountain. Granite makes good post offices, but hard beds. On the other hand, strenuous work makes sound Bleepers. Chimney Below Summit "The weather all this time had been perfect and at 4 o'clock on another perfect day we were away on the climb. By 6' o'clock the 2000 ft. of snow were below us, and at the foot of the 1800 ft. granite ridge we joined for the first time the route of the previous two parties. This ridge was ideal climbing and the 200 ft. vertical chimney below the summit had no terrors. It took careful climbing to enter and a vast heave to surmount the chock-stone that blocks its head. "Wo were filled with admiration, though, for the last party which climbed it when it was sheathed in a veneer of ice. This latter must be its usual condition and it may yet defeat many a party within a stone's throw almost of the goal. At 11 o'clock we were on the top with North-west Otago a map below and a pleasant feeling of something .■worth while satisfactorily done. "The descent was easy and, carrying right on to the tent in the valley, a bathe in our private swimming pool gashed away the fatigue of a 17-hour day. A day's rest, a return through the bush, and another three-day march back to Elfin Bay completed the trip." I