BULBS IN BOWLS

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXI, Issue 21716, 3 February 1934, Page 8 (Supplement)

BULBS IN BOWLS

DISPLAY FOR WINTER There is a fresh attractiveness about spring flowers, and although the garden is now at the height of summer glory it is time to make preparations for the winter season when flowers will be at a premium. It is a comparatively easy matter to arrange for bulbs to flower indoors during the winter months by growing them in bowls of fibre. The best compost is composed of leaf mould, fine soil and sand, or fine coconut fibre, a little charcoal and sand, the latter representing the " potting fibre " obtainable at seed storea. Daffodils and crocus, to flower by the end of June, should he planted in pots or ornamental bowls not later than the end of February, but the sooner after mid-Feb-ruary the bulbs are planted the better. Whether the bulbs for indoor flowering are in pots, or in bowls—in which, of course, there is no drainage hole — drainage must be provided to keep the soil or compost sweet and healthy so that the root fibres may feed freely. Arrange a layer of broken crocks or stones about an inch deep, at the bottom of the pot oj bowl. Loosely fill in a good layer of soil or fibre compost, which is preferable for bowls, and on this arrange all the bulbs of one variety, so that they come into bloom at the same time. They should be large and well developed, the skins being rather oily-looking if narcissus, hyacinths or tulips. Shrivelled, dry-looking bulbs will not do well. The bulbs should not quite touch each other, or the sides of the receptacle. The rest of the space, to within an iin. of the rim, should then be filled in with the fibre compost. Press down

fairly tightly, then fill in with more. The tips of the bulbs should be quite covered. If the bowl is a shallow one, smaller bulbs such as tulips or crocus can be used. The fibre compost must be saturated with water first, and then allowed to dry so that it remains damp when the bulbs are planted. Soil compost, too, should be just crumbly damp. Apply water sparingly in both cases, and keep the pots in a fairly cool cupboard, or similar dark place until the green tips of leaves appear above the soil. Gradually inure to the light, then move to a sunny window in a warm room and water more freely. The beauty of the bulbs bursting into flower is enhanced by covering the soil or compost in the bowls with green moss, which is easily obtainable. Bulbs for culture in bowls should be reliable. Low-priced bulbs may be all right for naturalising, or for out-door flowers, but they are apt to prove disappointing in bowls. This is not always because they are inferior in vitality, but because, when not otherwise indicated, they are immature and' will not flower well for a year or two. CALENDULA BLOOMS FOR WINTER Calendula, or pot marigolds, is one of the showiest plants for winter blooming, and its continuous blooming qualities make it a desirable plant for every garden. The following varieties bear much finer, larger and more brilliantlycoloured flowers than the common kind and are much to bo preferred:—Orange King, one of the earliest to blooin, has double, deep orange flowers; Lemon Queen is lemon yellow; Radio, with quill-like orange yellow petals, is very handsome; Golden Beam is another quilled variety of a fine yellow; Meteor has apricot-coloured blooms marked with yellow. Beside being of value as a cut flower the flower-heads are used when dried in cooking to flavour soups and stews, as well as for colouring butter, while the florets are sometimes used for healing wounds. The flowers and shoots of Calendula officinalis, the common marigold of gardens, have stimulant properties. They find a place in herbalists' shops and were at one time popular as a_ country remedy for ulcers. An infusion was used for external application and the drug was also taken internally. GLADIOLI ATTENTION TO CORMS Toward the end of February the foliage of tho earlier planted gladioli will turn yellow, and the plants should then be lifted. If placed under cover for a week or two it will be a simple matter to remove the soil and stems preparatory to storing tho corms for winter. The steins should be cut off half an inch or so above tho corms. If necessary tho cormlets, which will be found at the base of many of the old ones may be saved and planted in boxes of soil in spring. Gladioli t\re, however, so cheap, that unless of choice varieties, amateurs will find this method of increasing stock scarcely worth while. When all soil hns been removed and stems cut off the corms are stored in boxes or paper bags in a cool frostproof place for the win tor j tliero they will keep until planting time comes round again. The early flowering gladioli of the Colvillei type make quite useful subjects for early flower in the greenhouse if the corms are potted up in March, several corms being placed in a sixinch flower pot.