PERIL OF EVEREST

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXX, Issue 21505, 31 May 1933, Page 11

PERIL OF EVEREST

CLIMBERS CHECKED SNOW AND BLIZZARDS MONSOON NEARLY DUE ATTEMPT ON SUMMIT TIME LIMIT BIIIEF By Telegraph Press Association—Copyright (Received May 30. 5.5 p.m.) LONDON, May 29 A special correspondent of the Daily Mail at Darjeeling reports that falls of snow and fierce blizzards forced the advance party of Mr. Hugh Jtuttledgo's Mount Everest climbing expedition again to retreat .'SOOO feet to cainp No. 4 at an altitude of 2.1,000 feet. This means that the next attempt will be impossible for at least two days and unless it»is successful the members of-the expedition will be forced to abandon their efforts until September, as the mousoon is due within a week. In that case the entire expedition will leave Everest within 15 days, as unless the camps are cleared before the monsoon breaks the equipment may be lost, in the lace of these facts no fresh attempt is probable unless the weather suddenly changes. If that happens Mr. F. S. Smythe and ])r. Ji. C. Green are expected to face the unknown hazards of the last 2000 feet. Climbing conditions between Camps No. 5 and G already are very difficult. Mr. J. M. Scott, secretary to the expedition, admits that the climbing party lias been repulsed by bad weather, but lie says there is no reason why there should not bo several more opportunities of establishing Camp No. G and attempting to reach the summit. The wind is inclined to burst without warning, putting up a barrage of snow through which it would bo foolish for climbers to force their way as the wind reaches a velocity of 70 miles an hour but probably is succeeded by a lull when climbing again becomes possible. A message from Mr. Ruttledgc shows that tho judgment of tho climbers is not disturbed. They must shelter while tho north-west wind blows but this will be their ally when tho monsoon begins to force its way across tho Himalayas.

The Royal Geographical Society and the Alpine Club are financing the Everest expedition, and Mr. Hugh Ruttledge is the leader. The other members of the party are Mr. F. S. Smythe, of Kamet and Kanchenjunga fame, Mr. E. 0. Shelbeare, who is well acquainted with the mountain, Mr. L. A. Brocklebank. Major .Botistead, Dr. R. C. Green, Dr. W. W. McLean, Mr. C. G. Crawford, Mr. Wyn Harris, Air. J. Longland, Mr. E. E. Shipton, Mr. L. It. Wager, and Captain E. St. J. Birnie. Early in March they met at Darjeeling. In the middle of March they began the first week's trek to the base camp, 12 miles from the mountain. Eighty porters were taken, and yaks, mules and donkeys were used for transport. The last 2000 feet will have to be covered in a single day, and oxygen will be carried from the highest camp. The top camp in 1024 was at 27,000 feet, and the late Messrs. Mallory and Irvine reached at least 28,200 feet. Everest is 29,000 feet high. Mr. Rnttledgo mentions the possibility of finding an oxygen cylinder at the top, and very many are hoping that, the actual height reached by the two lost climbers will he established.

PROPOSED FLIGHT OPPOSITION IN INDIA YORKSHIREMAN'S VENTURE CALCUTTA, May 02 The news that a Yorkshire airman, Mr. Maurice Wilson, left England in a Gipsy Moth, to plant the Union Jack on the summit of Everest is not taken seriously by the public, but is resented in flying circles. Tbo undertaking of perilous flights unequipped is regarded as moro than a nuisance. Mr. Wilson will have a cold reception if he reaches India. If he reaches the top of Everest it may be even colder. As the "ceiling" of his aeroplane is 20,000 feet, he seems to have mistaken the height of Everest. Any suggestion that he should land at 20,000 feet, and walk up tho rest of the way, will bo dispelled by studying the Houston Expedition photographs. No report has been received of Mr. Wilson since he took off from London on Sunday.