THE ORCHARD

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIX, Issue 21296, 24 September 1932, Page 8 (Supplement)

THE ORCHARD

GRAFTING PIP FRUITS The grafting of apples, pears, etc., that have been headed for re-grafting with other or more approved varieties, should now bo proceeded with. The stock at ttys time being usually in a good condition for either whip or rind grafting, and providing the scions were secured at the time of pruning, i.hould still be comparatively dormant and should form a quick union. Grafting is best performed when tho stock is in advance of the scion, and when the sap in the stock is active, as a more rapid and completo union is formed. TWO GRAFTING METHODS With pip fruits, as with stone fruits, the mode of grafting will depend upon the size of tho stocks to be worked. When the stock scions are nearly of a uniform size, whip or tongue grafting is the simplest and best method to adopt, but when large branches have to bo worked, in some cases two or more inches in diameter, rind grafting is the best. In working these large stocks two or more grafts may be inserted in each, as in tho event of more taking than is needed to form a shapely tree, they can easily be removed. Directions have already been given upon both of these methods of grafting, and these, if carefully carried out may be successfully performed by any person who is at all handy with the knife. One of the chief points to study in grafting is to cut the scion ajul stock to make as perfect a fit as possible, so that the rind and bark closely touch each other. As soon as the grafts are inserted they should be securely tied and tho wound sealed over with grafting wax, which may be procured from any seedsman. Tho chief object is to exclude tho air and moisture until the union is complete. ATTENTION TO BUDDED TREES Trees that were budded during the summer will now need to bo cut back to force the buds into growth. The stock should be cut back to just above the buds, special caro being taken to make as clean a cut as possible, so as not to disturb or injure the bark immediately around tho buds. Whero large trees have been budded and the buds havo failed, grafts, where necessary, can still be inserted to fill the gaps. As soon as the growth becomes active, young shoots will .naturally grow out below where the buds and grafts have been inserted, and if allowed to grow unimpeded will greatly check tho growth of the bud. For this reason the stocks should be frequently inspected and all surplus growths removed. VINES UNDER GLASS MUCH TO BE DONE Vines under glass will, from this time onward, requiro almost constant attention lo keep the work under control. Even the latest varieties aro no longer dormant, so that growers will bo kept well employed in keeping pace with their requirements. It is when the vines arc breaking into growth that «'i nice moist temperaturo should bo maintained, the object being to induce a nice even break of buds to form. Damping the floor of tho liouso occasionally during tho day in fino weather, and spraying tho vines in tho afternoon when closing the house, has a softening effect on tho buds and assists them to break inoro evenly. Willi lato started vines, however, it is a mistake to attempt to unduly force the vines at this stago by keeping up too high a temperature. STRONG LATERAL GROWTHS One of the most important things is to first secure strong, short-jointed lateral growths, and this can only bo attained by allowing tho vines to grow slowly until strength is secured. Onco this is attained, tho vines can bo pushed on more rapidly, especially tho latest vines that arc often difficult to ripen before tho colder moist autumn weather sets in. Vines, unlike most other fruit plants, require almost daily attention from the time they are started into growth until tho ripening of the fruit. REMOVING WEAK GROWTHS Ono of tho first operations after tho vines havo started into growth and havo been tied to tho trellises, is disbudding—that is, removing all the weak growths that grow out around the baso of tho spurs, leaving ono or two of tho strongest and most promising shoots. Later on, follows tho stopping or pinching back the tops of the laterals. By this time the lateral showing the finest bunches can be determined, so that where two laterals havo been left 011 one spur, tho weaker or less promising should be shortened back or removed. 111 stopping, tho tops of tho laterals should bo pinched back above the second or third leaf above whero tho bunch is formed. BENEFIT OF HEALTHY FOLIAGE Whore three leaves can be left, above the bunch without overcrowding tho foliage, it should bo allowed as a good canopy of well-developed, healthy foliage is essential for producing good colour in the fruit. The stopping of the laterals and sublaterals should bo regularly attended to, and must not bo allowed to get out of hand. As soon as tho bunches have set their fruit a reasonable estimate of the quantity of fruit each vino should bo allowed to carry to maturity should be made and the surplus hunches removed. This is often an unpleasant task, but a necessary one. if fully-developed, highclass fruit is lo Iho obtained. ,