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THE ORCHARD.

PREPARATIONS FOR PLANTING.

There is no better time than during dry slimmer weather for breaking up and for working of any land intended for fruit or other tree planting during the autumn or winter planting season. Land broken up roughly at this time and exposed to tho ameliorating influence of the sun and air has timo»to become thoroughly sweetened, and will, before the time for planting, bo in the best possible condition for working and fining down in readiness for tho reception of the trees. The measure of success attained in planting young trees is so dependent upon the condition of the soil that too much attention cannot be given to it. But while this applies to practically all classes of trees and plants, whether planted for hedge, shelter, or ornamental purposes, it is especially essential in the preparation of the soil, and tho successful cultivation of fruit trees. PREPARATION OF THE SOIL. Too often the preparation of the soil is deferred until the season for lifting arrives* when the work of planting is rushed through regardless of the need and future welfare of the trees, in many instances simply holes just large enough for the roots being dug in virgin land that has not hitherto been broken up and with no provision made for the outlet of surplus moisture. Planting under such conditions is simply courting failure. Trees that are worth planting have naturally been well cared for, and to succeed need somewhat similar conditions to enable them to become well established before the spring growth sets in. Another and great advantage of having the ground well prepared beforehand is that the trees can be planted early. In reasonably good soil early-planted trees succeed much better than those planted later in the season, as they quickly form abundance of new roots and become well established before the growing season sets in. The amount of preparation necessary will naturally depend upon the nature and condition of the soil. Ground, for instance, that has been under cultivation for other crops will need little or no preparation beyond planning out the sites best suited for the varieties to be planted. NEED TOR GOOD DRAINAGE. Thorough drainage is essential, and if there is no natural free outlet it must be provided for. Tho stiffer the land the more necessary it is to have it thoroughlv and deeply worked, and in such condition that no stagnant water can lie at the roots. This in fact is chiefly the cause of trees becoming covered with moss and other parasitic growths, while any fruit that is produced is usually small and tasteless. The advantage of draining lies not only in the removal of surplus moisture, but in the removal of injurious gases, adding warmth to the soil and in strengthening root formation. It is not always convenient or necessary to resort to tile draining, although this is without question the most effective and lasting method. Much, however, can be done with land of a stiff nature, if of an undulating character.by double ploughing, turning the soil up as deeply as possible so that no surplus water can lie and stagnate. If the whole of tho land cannot l>e at once, treated strips 6ft. wide where the rows of trees are to l.e planted could be broken up and thoroughly worked before tho time of lifting. In most sites selected for an orchard the soil varies in character and is more suited to some varieties than others. For instance, peaches, nectarines, plums and other stone fruit, as well as lemons and other citrus fruit, succeed best when grown in deep, rich, friable soils, while pip fruit succeed and fruits well when grown i n fairly stiff, though well drained, land. SELECTION OF VARIETIES. The selection of varieties should not be left until the planting season, as there is no belter time for making the selection than during the fruiting season, when the merits of the different varieties are in evidence. At this time notes can bo taken of the most suitable kinds, tho qualities of the fruits, their cropping capabilities, as well as their seasons of ripening. From these a list should bo carefully made out, as well as any trees or plants required for sheltering purposes, so that there should ho no delay in planting as soon as the lifting season arrives. SHELTER FOR TREES. In almost every orchard some provision is necessary for sheltering the trees, though the shelter needed will depend upon the lay of the ground and tho natural shelter already provided. Different fruit trees vary in tho amount necessary to produce tho best results. Too dense an evergreen shelter is riot conducive to fruitfulness as almost overy fruiting is benefited by. reasonable exposure to tho weather during the autumn and winter, as it enables, the wood and buds to ripen and mature much better than when deprived of tho necessary light and air by too dense shelter. The shelter should be planted at a sufficient distance from fruit trees to admit of the free access of light and air for tho ripening of tho wood..

AZALEAS. Azaleas have been suffering considerably from the effects of protracted dry weather that has led to dryness at the roots and caused the plants to turn a rusty, unhealthy colour. Thrips and red spider are prevalent upon them during the hot, dry weather. To refresh the bushes, especially any of the better varieties, they must receive copious waterings sufficient to thoroughly soak the soil at the roots. Occasional syringings overhead and spraying to treat red spider and thrips should be attended to, this being necessary to keep the foliage intact. Azaleas succeed best in a cool, damp, loamy soil, with partial shade. The treatment of azaleas at this season is responsible for next spring's growth and good flowering. PELARGONIUMS. The present is a suitable time to propagate the different varieties of pelargoniums from cuttings. The zonale and ivyleaved sections ot the genus are easily grown from cuttings taken off now and inserted in plant trays. The Regal, decorative and show varieties are more difficult lo strike. They succeed best when carefully selected and inserted in pots, singly or otherwise. f DRY WEATHER PLANTS. Now is the time to take note of those varieties of shrubs and other garden plants best suited to dry weather. For the guidance of those that have not considered this subject the following are splendid dry-weather subjects:—Crassula, coccinea, echeverias, cotyledons and other succulent plants. Among annuals those suited include portulacas, ectasias, amaranthus, zinnias, petunias, gaillardias, phlox Drummondii, coreopsis, statices, French and African marigolds, verbenas, larkspurs and penstemon, herbaceous plants, gerberas, campanulas, statices, phlox Nelsoni, Michaelmas daisies, perennial delphiniums, shasta daisies, thalictrum, cannas and others. TO CORRESPONDENTS. E.P., Rotorua.—The herry with foliage 5b the Japanese wineberry. It is an edible berry and is suitable for pice and jam. *' Constant Render," Avondale South. — 1. Strawberry plants are not worth keeping for fruiting the third year. 2. Do not monure strawberry plants at this season. F.R., Remuera.—The sample of zinnia flowers leceived is evidently the result of a very much smaller fioweriug variety and not the giant strain such as you had so good last year. Dryness at the roots and poor giowth affects the size of the blooms. Mount Eden.—-Up-to-date is the finest of all the freestone varieties of peaches for bottling. It. has a delicious flavour of its own superior to any other freestone. Fruits of this variety should be obtainable locally. G.D.K.P., Dargaville.—Onions for seedsaving should be selected specimens of large size and good shape, according to the variety. They should be planted in good soil and in a sheltered place. Plant them at the end of the autumn. Those left in the seed bed would not be suitable to save seed from to produce a good strain. T.P., Epsom.—With good cultivation and the usual attention to winter spraying Red Astrakan and Pride of Australia varieties of apples should keep free from disease. 1 have never seen these two varieties affected with the transparent waxy skins or cores. The old stone pippin and winter peach wore subject to this defect. The writer is unable to recommend a preventative. The disease is sometimes referred to as sunscald. The season being very dry during November may have been accountable for the trouble. T.H.E., Manurewa.—The following list of Bhrubs would be 6uitablo for planting a strip of ground on the south side of a long building that gets but little sun and where the eubsoil is heavy clay and inclined to dnmpness:—Hydrangeas (these are most suitable), aucicbas, nandina, azaleas, indica. mollis, veronicas of sorts, spiraea, Anthony waterer, ribes, sanguineum, eralia Sieboldii, berberis of sorts, ilex or hollies, varieties of escallonias, variegated and other flax, euonymus, viburnums, laurels, coprosmas, polygala grandis, rapliiolepsis, Cambusa gracilis, and the different vaiieties of tree ferns. Small-growing plants, such as polyanthus, primroses, campanulas, violets, cinerarias, aquilegias, pansies, anemone Japonica, geums, libertia, some varieties of fuchsias, nephrolepsis and other ferns, especially marattia, the horseshoe fern, flag irises, Michaelmas daisies, cyperus alternifolia, etc., would be suitable for such a position. " Strawberry," Northern Wairoa.—The strawberry specimen with the leaves intact is, according to foliage, Marguerite; the other with the old. fruiting stem is probably phenomenal. To properly identify a piece with the leaves is necessary. To destroy cutworms, the larvae of the Agrotis moth: The grubs conceal themselves beneath the surface and come out to feed at night. Disturb the soil abound the affected plant during the day; caterpillars or grubs are then generally found, and by this means choice plants may be saved. The poison method of dipping cabbage leaves or fresh clover in a solution of Paris green or dusting it, on dry has proved a practical success. Cnre must be taken that fowls or slock do not get nt the poisoned leaves. Another method consists in placing boards on the ground and collecting the grubs that shelter under them in the morning. Gns water poured on the soil or soot and gas lime applied around the top of the root of each plant, frequently stirring the soil and exposing the grubs to birds, is also recommended. " Subscriber." Morrinsville.—The summer management of tobacco nlants, now showing about one foot of growth, consists in keeping the ground among the plants hoed and free from wec*ls, watering when necessary, tnking off the decayed leaves at the bottom, and topping when the plants have made from nine to 14 good leaves. Pinch out the side ehoots that appear in tlio axils of the leaves and rob the leaf development. Commence to gather the leaves when they begin to turn yellow. The leaves comprise three standards or qualities. The middle is the second quality and the lower the third quality. After the leaves arc gathered they are tied in bundles on the spot, occording to their respective qualities. When taken to the drying sheds they are again separated and picked or sorted over, all of one quality being threaded together on lines, leaving about half an inch between each leaf to allow a free circulation of air between them. The lines with the leaves on are stretched from one side to the other of the drying shedß. For further information ae to curing apply to the Department of Agriculture, Anzao Avenue, Auckland. The variegated podded bean you have sent a sample of is one commonly called " Tainted Lady." There is a dwarf and a climbing form of this variety. The variety is not often seen in cultivation. There are now so many extra good and reliable varieties that the older kinds are apt to be neglected. Kepos.

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https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NZH19320206.2.167.58

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIX, Issue 21100, 6 February 1932, Page 8 (Supplement)

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1,943

THE ORCHARD. New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIX, Issue 21100, 6 February 1932, Page 8 (Supplement)

THE ORCHARD. New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIX, Issue 21100, 6 February 1932, Page 8 (Supplement)