A POOR SUMMER.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXVIII, Issue 20988, 26 September 1931, Page 6 (Supplement)

A POOR SUMMER.

DRIFTING BACK. A FURORE CAUSED. [SPECIAL TO N.Z. HERALD. —COPYRIGHT.] LONDON, August 7. Fashion experts have already turned their backs on all things summery, and this year, I suspect, they so with relief. After all, .it is disappointing to design some of the loveliest clothes ever devised for warm, summer days, only to find that summer sunshine refuses to materialise. Will the day dawn when our fashions become all-the-year-round affairs, with changes for the love of change, and not because of the season ? We are slowly but surely drifting back to both 'Victorian modes and manners. Witness the furore caused by the new hats, which have descended like an avalanche on the shops, and which everyone is rushing to possess. There are many new elaborations of the original little " bowler " hat which first startled the feminine world, but they all have the same characteristic in that they are perched on the head, usually at the side and over one eye. This is the most revolutionary change we have had in millinery since we first plunged our heads deep into the little wartime cloche, which turned every woman's head into an inverted pudding basin. v While all the new crowns are shallow domes, the brims take on every sort of angle, but at some point aro turned up. There are boat-shaped hats, the glengarry Scotch caps, the three-cornered shapes, and those that aro up one side and down the other. In straw, felt and velvet, with elaborate feather trimmings or just tiny wings, but feather trimmed in soinc way, these new hats have suddenly made all our other shapes look okbfashioned. One would have expected older women who are constantly saying how lovely they used to look in feathered hats to be the first to welcome the new millinery. But it is the young girls who are so eager to wear these coy little shapes which givo such a touch of romance to a youthful figure. They are smart on the older woman, but., candidly, they do not take any years off her age, and that, to my mind, is the flaw in the new fashions—thev are distinctly ageing. If, as the prophets tell us, women arc returning to Victorian ideals, and that the enthusiasm for woman's freedom is passing, then possibly the middle-aged woman will be content to look middleaged. The revival, of feathers as a trimming both for hats and gowns is as definite as it is sudden.

Button-holes, shoes. fans, baps anrl even gloves have a touch of a wing or a feather somewhere, from the sweeping ostrich plume, which half-circles the daring little hats, to the tiny, soft down of a cluster of feathered rosebuds for a shoulder knot. A cluster of curled cock's feathers is fastened on an eve Ling bodice, and elbowlength evening gloves have ostrich feather fringes along one side, rather like the cowboy gauntlets we admired a few seasons ago. Feathers are nsed in a dozen different ways, but we are thankful to say no one suggests the use of osprey or bird of paradise—both of which entailed cruelty. Cock's feathers, pheasant's discarded plumage, the domestic pigeon, as well as the handsome ostrich plume, are all pressed into service to make the little cockades, varnished quills, soft little tufts of brilliant, curling feathers, or the small flv-away wings on the " mercurv " hat. "Pheasant tail feathers, brightly varnished and placed round the crown, are supplanting the usual bands of velvet or ribbon on the more severe models.

Although the little eye-veil has had a moderate success with some people, there are still many women who have never worn a veil. Rumour has it that the new hats are being specially designed to wear with veils; by this I mean the real under-the-chin, tied at the back veils of pre-war davs.

Bead bags are also promised—some of the newest shapes being exactly like the old-fashioned reticule.

Very wide leather belts, buckled in the front, are being shown on some of the early model dresses for sport and indoor wear, and sleeves promise to be more elaborate than we have had for years.

The newest coats wrap well round the body, and the muff is often suggested by one enormous fur cuiT, into which both hands can be slipped.

The muff has been a feature of many elaborate summer frocks. Made of chiffon, silk or lace, it has acted as a handbag to contain the necessary powderpuff, lip-stick, small hankey, etc.

Bridesmaids have found it a welcome change from the conventional bouquet, adding a touch of old-world charm with the short tippet capes that finish so many summer gowns. The craze for white hats which istarted with the crochet beret cap has spread to straw bowlers, and looks like continuing to white fell, sailor and Robin Hood shapes for the winter.

As I have mentioned before, white in any material is extremely chic, particularly the all-white toilette for day and evening wear, or the short white coat worn with a dark-coloured dress or skirt.

These little coats need not be expensive—in white linen, shantung, pique, flannel, or fine cloth, they are equally successful. The chic lies in the sharp fcolour contrast of short, light top and dark skirt.