THE FRUIT SECTION.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXVII, Issue 20480, 4 February 1930, Page 5

THE FRUIT SECTION.

BUDDING OPERATIONS. It ih generally considered that the jnonth of February is the best one in which any budding should be performed, and so orchardists should not delay too much before carrying out this work. The measure of success that attends any late budding always depends on the season.

The " bud-sticks '* should be selected from vigorous, healthy trees, and the buds 01 them should be plump and fairly mature. A description of the procedure that is followed in budding may be interesting and instructive to the amateur. When everything is in readiness the preparation of tho stock is the first thing that is done.

The stock is the branch or shoot into which tho bud is to be inserted. A T-shaped slit is what Is to be made, and this is produced by making a horizontal incision about half an inch long and a vertical cut from the centre of this down the shoot for about three times the length. The two flaps of bark in the right angles of the T are then lifted carefully and a pocket is thus formed into which the bud may be fitted. The depth of the incisions, it might bo mentioned, is to the extent of the wood. Position of Incision.

The position of the incision is important, and should be studied carefully. Of course, it should be on the outside of the shoot so that' the new shoot will grow in accordance with the recognised principles of pruning when the twig is cut back to an outside bud. A shoot about i';in. to Jin. thick is the most easily budded, and so, if one has a choice, the shoots of this size should be used first. A clean piece of bark is required, as any knot or scar may prevent the bark f rom lifting cleanly. The bud is taken off tlie bud-stick on a piecj of bark about an inch long. It is procured by commencing the cut about half an inch above the bnd and continning it to the same distance below. It is rot necessary to cut deeply beneath the bed, as little more than the bark need bo removed. The chief consideration hi the width of the piece of bark, which should bo about obtain this it may be necessary, to cut into the wood a little, and the piece of wood that is removed with tli« bud should be taken out. This leaves the bud on a strip of clean bark and ready for insertion. , Inserting the Bud. When both the bnd and " the stock have been prepared the actual budding may be performed. In 'doing this the bnd is pushed down into the pocket behind the flaps of bark until the upper end o:l the piece of bark on which the bud in, is in line with the bark above the cross-piece of the T. The flaps are . then iolded around the bud. so that it is just jrotruding in the slit. The next thing to do is to bind the whole up with ituitable material. "" For the purpose of binding up a bud it is asual to use raffia, but a piece of tape may also be used. The bud should be bcund tightly so that it is pressed closely to the wood and the flaps are pressed on to tho bud. It is most essential that the tissues are not allowed to drr out in the slightest, and so there should be no delay before the bud is bound up. The binding should be done so that the whole wound is Covered up, with but the smallest- of .openings for the shoot to grow out of when, the bud unites. ' ' Exclusion of Air. The total exclusion of The air is essential to the success of the buds, and although the binding is usually effective, it is as well to make certain by smearing the buds with grafting wax'or vaseline. After a while- it will be noticed that the buds are swelling, and when ' this occurs the tying material may need' to bis loosened a little so that the flow of the sap will not be restricted at all. After this has been done another smear-, ing of wax or vaseline should be given. Thfl number of buds to insert will depend on the reason for doing the budding in the first place. If it is for renovation purposes it should bo sufficient to inserii about twice the number that will be nueded as leaders later on. This will allow for the failure of quite a few, but should provide plenty for requirements. If tllie budding is Leing done to introduce a new variety on to a tree which is self-sterile and where there is not room enough to plant another specimen, about • four buds should be worked on to each tree of such character. Subsequently, two branches should be enough for each and if the whole four buds are successful two of the shoots may be cut out. The knife used for budding should to# very sharp, so that all cuts will be clean. Bruised tissues such as result from th« use .[if any old knife will not help any in tho callusing process. ' VITICULTURE, - ATTENTION TO VINESThe grape vines may be in need of sfrmri little attention at the present "time, and the viticulturist should not neglect this if it. is required. Tho outdoor crops promise to bo good again this year, and so ili will pay to look after them carefully. Where thinning was performed the bunches are swelling evenly and fully. It is at this stage that one can notice tho result of the bunches having not been thinned, also, and from this one can obtain an idea of how to thin another season. Among the swelling fruits there will be seen a certain number of grapes that have not developed past a certain stag:'. These will be found scattered through the bunches and take up room that would give the larger fruits more room to swell to their full extent. Tho suppression of the axillary shoots saves a considerable quantity of sap that "would be nioro beneficially used in helping to swell the bunches of fruit. The smaller these shoots are when they are rubbed out the better, as it is easier to do when they are young and tender, and it prevents further" waste of sap. This means that all growth should be kept suppressed except the leaders that are extending the vine. The shading of theJtruit is another thing that has to be watched, and this gives us a further reason for removing the side shoots. It may be necessary at this time to carry out further defoliation in addition, if the bunches are shaded to any extent. A number of tho leaves which completely hide tho fruit should be removed so that, tho grapes may colour up properly. This is not tho only reason for removing the leaves, however, for then) is a more important one. When the sun does not reach the fruit they do not have tho saino sweet flavour that the other bunches have because the plant cells in the grapes require the sun's rays in order to make the grape sugar which they afterwards store up in the fruit. The outdoor vines may be assisted to mat.tre their bunches by being given an application of liquid manure. For tins purpose there is nothing better than SD E®'* phosphate, as this is the most forcing r tili&:r known is far as pushing a on i.o maturity is concerned. < -» ~,.i tion may bo mado by dissolving mo*;. than ioz. to the gallon and apptf ing it in liberal doses. it will Where cincturing was p • tures a t l,e advisable to insp?ej fl * e ? essar y admtevvals and make a "&. 'vines.should justnents season, and sa , increase in dianiete j ur j n ,r the -season the ties will tighten. U P -i s TThe restric;l„ mm «* be p";. Hon of the flow of sap mitted for anything.