THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXVII, Issue 20480, 4 February 1930, Page 5

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

CROPS FOR THE FUTURE.

B¥ F.S.R.

Where the ground lias been prepared for the autumn and winter crops in the manner outlined in these columns a few weeks ago the sowing or planting may now bo carried out. The weather has been all that could have been desired for carrying out tile preparations, and it is most promising now for tho sowing and planting. The final preparations should be carried out at present so that the seed or the plants may be put in in a week's time.

With tho ground in its present moist condition it will be possible to work the plots up to a fine friable tilth, a condition which is most desirable for sowing. The fork is the most suitable tool for the purpose and may be used freely to break down any lumps that there may be in the soil. Cabbages are one of the first crops to bo planted and tho final preparations consist of working the ground as much as possible and making an application of sulphate of ammonia at the rato of loz. per square yard. After working this in with a hoe tho planting may be proceeded with. Distances for Cabbages. Cabbages may be set out in rows at least 2ft. apart, and a little further apart if the room can be spared. In tho rows the plants should be allowed from 18in. to 24in. of room. In a small garden it is usually necessary to give the crops the .minimum of space in order that a greater variety may be grown. Another determining factor is the most suitable size of cabbage for one's requirements. If a small cabbage is sufficient for a meal for tho family there is no sense in putting the plants far enough apart so that they will easily exceed this size. The most suitable varieties to plant at the present time arc Henderson's Succession, Early Drumhead, St. John's Day and Enfield Market. The ground for cauliflowers should he prepared in the same manner as for cabbages. The distance between the plants in this case is slightly different, however, as from 15in. to 18in. arc allowed between the plants and 27in. betweeu the rows. Walcheren, Early London and Veifch's Auti/iun Giant are three good varieties that may be put in at this time of the year. Broccoli may also be put in at this time, the plants being set out 21in. apart in rows 2ft. Of the other cruciferous crops kale and Brussels sprouts may be put in at the present. Kale should 'be planted 2ft. apart in both directions, while the sprouts should be allowed 6in. extra between the rows. Club Root in Orucifers. , One of the worst pests of any member of the cabbage family is the club root fungus, and every precaution should be taken to make the risk of infection as small as possible. The use of lime will help a lot in this direction, its drawback is that the most active forms cannot bo used when the sulphate of ammonia is applied. In these cases it might, perhaps, be better to uso atomic sulphur instead, as this is equally as effective and does not react in the same way. Another thing that, is beneficial in the same direction is White Island product No. 1, which contains a good proportion of raw sulphur. Lettuce requires a fairly rich soil as it is most desirable that its development be rapid in order that the produce be crisp and tender. Lettuce should be planted out when the plants are about 3in. high. A raised bed is the best for lettuce culture and one about 4ft. wide is the most suitable. Sometimes, of course, the • lettuce is grown as a catch crop which necessarily makes a difference. The plants should be put out about 9in. apart with from 12in. to 15in. between the rows. The Root Crops. Among the root crops the carrot may be sown at the present time, and the final preparations for this crop consist of applying a little fertiliser about a week before the seed is put in. Superphosphate is used for this crop (and for most root crops) and is applied to tho drill itself. The rate of application is about loz. to every 24iri. or 50in. of drill. This should be worked into the soil with a fork so that it is not left too near the surface. Carrot seed should not be sown more than »,in. deep and when the soil is moist deep is quito sufficient. Another root crop that may be sown about now is beetroot, tho most suitable typo being the turnip-rooted varieties. The soil should be finally prepared by being given the same application of fertiliser as the carrot plot was provided with. As each so-called " seed " is really two, three or four seeds held together by some corky material it is necessary to sow it thinly; The seed may be sown from *,in. to lin. deep in drills about 15in.'or 18in. apart. Seeing that the season is so favourable a sowing of parsnips should give sufficient return to justify its being made. The Hollow Crown variety is the best for present sowing and may bo sown in drills from 15in. to 21in. apart. The soil should be prepared as for the two preceding crops and the seeds should be dropped approximately' an inch apart in I the drills. Half an inch of soil is all that 1 lie seed should be covered by and it is helpful if this is pressed down on to tho seed slightly. MUSHROOM CULTURE. PREPARING A BED. The preparation of a bed for mushrooms is a thing that may be, now carried out. An abundance of good stable manure is required and this should bo made up in a heap and allowed to heat up for a while, when it should be shaken out and slacked once more after any dry portions have, been moistened. When it has been dealt with in this manner several times it should be ready for tho bed. Tho bed is made up from the rotted manure and trampled well as it is built up. The bed is made up in the form of a ridge with a base about 4ft. wide and the sides tapering to practically a point. The apex should be about 2ft. 6in. from tho ground so that the sides will not be on too much of a slant. The bed must bn compacted from the, side as well as by means of the trampling, and this can best, bo done with tho back of a spade. ■ It will be necessary to provide ventilation in the centre of the bed or else it may over-heat and spoil the whole lot. The ventilation is best provided by placing poles about 2in. in diameter at intervals of 9iu. along the centre of the bed. When the ridge has been built up these, may be withdrawn leaving holes behind them. After having been made up the bed will increase in temperature tor a time and then it will cool somewhat. It is after it has passed its maximum heat that tho bed is spawned. Spawn-bricks are o«*ninable from seedsmen and these should bo broken into pieces about the size of a hen's egg. The pieces should be planted 9in. apart on the sides of the bed. This should not be done until the temperature of the bed has been tested, however, which is done by keeping sticks in tho sides and pulling these out and holding them in the naked hand. If they are too hot to be held for any time the manure is still too warm for the spawning to be gone on with. After about three or four days the bed may be earthed. Soil should be thrown on to the bed to a depth of 2in. or so and should bo battered into place with the spade. Loose straw should be placed over the whole and combed down with a fork to give a thatched effect. If there is no available straw the next best thing is to place old sacks over tho bed to keep the soil from becoming too we! or too dry. As soon as the crop begins to appear it will be necessary to remove the sacks.