STACK ENSILAGE.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXVI, Issue 20425, 29 November 1929, Page 7

STACK ENSILAGE.

EXPLANATION OF METHODS.

SIZE AND QUANTITIES,

SECURING RIGHT TEMPERATURE,

The following method of making stack ensilage is described in the New Zealand Journal of Agriculture:— '

About 20 tons is the minimum amount, of material which shoiild be put into an ensilage stack. The approximate-size of stacks are: 20 to 40 tons, 14ft. by 14ft. ; 5G to 70 tons, 16ft. by 18ft.; (30 to 100 tons, 20ft. by 24ft. ,If -reasonably good methods of saving are employed, each 30 tons of green material put into a stack should result in at least 20 tons of sound cured ensilage after allowing for all wastage. -Where very large quantities of uiaterial are being put in., a good square stack is probably the best; but for average. conditions it will be found that a round stack gives the best results, being easier to build and showing very little waste when finished.

With regard to the best tirile to cut, tfie material .should 'go-in at its best, and . while ; it retains; sufficient , sap to bring about the necessary fermentation or cooking. Occasional showers during the building of the stack aro generally an advantage, and necessary if the mrterial has been allowed to become overripe. Building the Stack. Having everything ready for a start, sufficient material should be cut and the stack built up to Bft. or Oft. on the first day. Usually the material should be cut and put straight into the Htack, with the exception of lucerne crops containing much very succulent material such as sow-thistles. In such cases the material may be allovved' to wilt for a few hours before stacking. The stack, having been built up to Bft. or 9ft., should be allowed to stand for one or more days until it has settled down properly, and until the temperature in the centre is between -120 degrees and 130 degie.es F., the best ensilage being made between those points. The temperaturo having risen to the proper point, stacking may be continued from day to day, but if it is noticed that the stack is not settling or that the temperature is low it should be given another spell for a day or two. The general rule is: If the temperature is getting too high, add more material; if too low, refrain from adding material until it has reached the desired point. At one time it was thought that brown sweet ensilage was the best, but experience has shown that, the green fruity kind has a greater feeding-value than the brown. If the stack temperature does not exceed 130 degrees the superior green ensilage will result. Experienced ensilage-makeris can tell from the feel and appearance of the stack if the temperature is right, but beginners will find it a great help to use a thermometer. All that is _ necessary is a piece of fin. or lin piping, 4ft. to_ 6ft. long. Into one end of this a pointed stick is placed and the pipe driven into the stack. The thermometer is then attached to a piece of string and lowered down the pipe. An ordinary milk-ther-jnorneter is satisfactory. The thermometer may be pulled up from ti.m« to time as required to ascertain the temperature. When ready -to start building again the pip© and thermometer are removed, and at the end of the day's work replaced in position. • ~ Methods of Weighting.

I When the building of the stack is finished it must be -weighted to cause even settling and control of temperature. In most places earth is the most suitable material for this purpose. If the stack is hot and settling quickly the earth should be put on at once, but if the settling is slow it is best to wait a day' or two, as bv this time the height of the stack will be considerably reduced and it will be seen if the settling is even. It is good practice to fix. a frame of some sort round the stack to hold the, earth. This frame should go as near the edge as possible. The/nearer the pressure can be got to the edge the less will be the wastage of material.; Sometimes a frame of sawn timber made of two 6in. by lin. lengthways,: supported by 3in. by lin. stays, and braced lengthways and across with fencing-wire, 1 is; used; but the more common practice is to place poles along tlie sides and ends, tie across with wire, and put earth in : . side them. Another useful method' is to run a wire lound the stack about 2ft. from the edge, tying it with, cross-wires.., than filling old- manure-bags or benzine tins with soil, and hanging these to the wire to serve as a frame. Y- ; '

; Probably one of the best methods ,- s to secure some lOin. by lin. boards, cut them to suitable lengths, and jbin them together with; hinges made of ordinary fencing-wire. For- square stacks the timber should? be cut in lengths to suit: the size of the stack, but for round stacks the boards are cut to 3ft". lengths. Another common method of holding the earth is to put some-heavy sheep-netting round the stack, line it with sods or grass, and then fill in. Others, again, simply put the earth on and trust to luck in getting it as near the edge as possible, but in this way the loss round the stack is greater. The soil should be put on to a depth of 9in. to lOin. along the sides, running to 15in. to 18in. in the centre. If the season is very dry it will pay to double the quantities of earth.