GROWING BROAD BEANS.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXV, Issue 19929, 24 April 1928, Page 17

GROWING BROAD BEANS.

PREPARING THE GROUND. The preparation of the ground for broad beans is a task which should bo attended to at the present time in order that the seed may be sown shortly. The broad bean prefers a rich, rather heavy but well-drained loam„but will succeed in the majority of soils. The plot should be in a sunny position for preference, as the crop should be encouraged to make as much growth as possible during the winter. It is not too early to make a sowing, as this would como into bearing in early spring. The period for sowing extends until the end of August. In order to maintain a succession sowings may be made at intervals of about three weeks.

The soil for broad beans should be worked to a fair depth. This encourages root development and improves the drainage of the soil. When broad beans are being graven on heavy soil it will be advisable to trench the plot to effect the necessary improvement in the drainage, it is not advisable to incorporate stable manure or similar material just prior to sowing. A little well-rotted material may be worked in if the sowing is not to be made immediately. It is preferable to select as the site some plot which was enriched liberally for the preceding crop and which is still in good "heart." The plot from which summer cabbages were removed will be suitable. If such a plot is not available and an immediate planting is contemplated an application of blood and bone may be made at the rate of to 2oz. to the square yard according to richness, of the soil. The fertiliser may be applied to the drill at the time of sowing and worked into the soil. If this is not done the seeds will be liable to rot owing to their being in direct contact with the blood and bone. Where the soil is considered rich enough without any blood and bone an application of superphosphate may be worked into the drill instead at the time of sowing. Phosphates are ideal for a crop of broad beans and the dressing may be given at the rate of about l-joz. per square yard. In the case where blood and bone is applied the phosphorus is contained in this fertiliser. The selection of the variety to sow will depend on the grower's fancy. If large beans are preferred the Broad Windsor will be found to be a good variety. On the other hand, if small beans are desired one of the long-pod varieties should be chosen. Of these* latter Early Long Pod and Exhibition Long Pod are two good varieties. There are two methods of sowing broad beans. The first consists of placing the seed about 6in. apart in drills 2in. or 3in. deep, the rows being from 2jft. to 3ft. apart. With the second method the seeds • are planted 6in. apart alternately in rows the same distance apart. Before sowing the seed it will be found a great help to soak it in warm water for several hours. This allows the seeds to absorb moisture 111 sufficient quantity to induce immediate germination. ROUTINE GARDEN WORK. NECESSARY OPERATIONS. There are various matters which will need attention at this time. After the strong winds of last week the garden should be gone over and crops which have been blown over should be set right. All debris should be cleared away from among the plants. As soon as the soil dries sufficiently for working the ground between the crops should be hoed or forked over lightly to loosen it after being compacted by the heavy rains. A loose soil promotes root growth. During the winter the conditions in which the roots exist govern to a very large extent the growth made by the plants. If the roots are not in sodden soil continually, but are allowed plenty of air (which 'they get in a well-drained soil) they are ablo to perform their natural functions. A small raised bed should be provided for cabbage and cauliflower seeds. A raised bed will allow the seedlings to develop to their limit for setting out in spring. The same varieties that were recommended for planting may be_ sown now. If not done already a sowing of onions may be made. THE FRUIT SECTION. DRAINING THE ORCHARD. One of the most important tasks to which the orchardist should attend at the present time is the draining of the orchard. The importance of good drainage has been emphasised often, and it is time that the orchard was prepared for the wet weather. In a very short while the soil will be too wet. to permit this work to be carried out. The clearing out of the drains or other watercourses is one of the first things to be done. During the summer these are neglected and they cave in and become blocked in other ways. Now that the rainy season is approaching the drains nilist be put in good order so that the surplus water will be able to get away quickly. The formation of drains between the rows of trees is advisable. They carry on their useful work most efficiently when the orchard is ridged, with the rows of trees growing on the summits of the ridges. As a matter of fact every orchard should be planned in this manner. Tn established orchards which arc not ridged it is possible to form ridges in a slight degree, but i(. is not advisable to go past a certain limit for fear of burying tho tree trunks too much. The method consists of digging drains about a foot deep between the lows of trees and throwing the spoil nearer the trees to form a slight ridge. Tn every case, of course, it is essential that a convenient outlet bo provided. When preparations are being made for tho planting of fruit trees tlie ground should be ridged before anything else in the way of preparation is commenced. Drains, of course, should run in tho hollows between the ridges. In a small orchard where it is impossible to form these ridges the next best thing to do is to form a mound for each free with a circular drain around it. These drains should each have an outlet leading into a main drain. CURRENT ORCHARD WORK. ATTENTION TO BUDS. .All budding should bo finished by this time. Ordinarily it would be too late for this work by now, but the present season is such an exceptional one that budding might still bo done with a chance of success.

All buds which have been worked previously should be inspected regularly. As soon as the bud swells, denoting a successful union, the tie must, be slackened. It should not be removed entirely, however, until a complete union lias taken place. The preparations for the planting of fruit, trees should be gone on with. The work should be well in hand by now because the rains to be expected in the near future will put an end to the opportunities for carrying the work out.