THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXV, Issue 19929, 24 April 1928, Page 17

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

CROPS FOR THE FUTURE. BY F.S.R. The past season has proved to be a most difficult one for gardeners in several respects. Primarily the moisture supply was the cause ol considerable worry, especially in areas where water restrictions were iu force. , The growth of the plants was retarded, which made the crops either late in maturing or caused them to ripen prematurely. The failure of the crops to a greater or lesser degree was unlooked for, and the gardener was not prepared for the contingency that arose. Every effort at the present time should lie directed in an attempt to make up for the leeway as much as possible. It will be in Lite winter and early spring that the shortage of vegetables will most likely occur, as the crops to be put in store are not as heavy as they are in a normal season. The aim of the gardener should be to provide crops to como in at the end of winter to follow on after those planted and sown in late summer and early autumn. After the recent rains have soaked in, leaving the soil in a workable condition, the work should bo commenced.

3f the root crops turnips only may be sown at this time of the year, but this crop is an excellent one for the purpose in view It is advisable to sow on the top of a ridge about 3in. or 4in. high, as this will keep the crop drained more effectively and allow it to grow, even though slowly, when otherwise it might ba at a standstill. Turnips should be sown in a sheltered position if they are to develop as quickly as possible. It is not generally known that the wind decreases the temperature of the soil very greatly. Sheltering the Garden. The provision of some means of sheltering the garden from the cold, winds will keep the plot much warmer in the winter. Warmth means quicker growth and earlier maturity, which is most important as far »s the crops being put in now are concerned. With turnips quicker growth means better produce of milder flavour. Both White Stone and Grey Stone varieties ,may be sown now, the former being earlier to mature. Although in the ordinary course of events it is too late to sow carrots by the end o!i April, yet, considering that the present season is such an exceptional one, a small sowing of the Shorthorn or Oxheart might be made without delay, if the gardener is willing t-o take a chance.

Plantings which may be made now to prevent a shortage of vegetables later, include cabbages and cauliflowers. Of the former Enfield Market and Henderson Succession" are good varieties, and for those who like a small cabbage the St. John's Day should be found a suitable variety. Early London and Walcheren are two varieties of cauliflower which the writer has found to succeed.

When planting these crops (he plants should be set in the soil right up to the neck, i.e., the base of the lowest leaves. Some plants may have fairly long stems and to set them up to their necks would mean putting the roots down several inches. This is not desirable, and the difficultv may be overcome by setting the plants out obliquely, so that the roots remain neai tne surface, and yet the plants are set up to the neck in the soil. The plants will socr. lift themselves from their slanting position. Planting Cabbages, Etc., Deep.

The need for planting cabbages and cauliflowers up to the neck is greatest at this time of the year. With the boisterous winds experienced during the winter, any plants which protrude too far from the soil will be blown over much more easily than those planted as recommended. These plants, and similar ones, naturally grow with a fairly long stem and it may happen that they become top-heavy after a while. In such cases, or where there is a risk of its occurrence, the plants may be earthed up to a height of about three inches, taking care not to disturb the sur-face-feeding roots during the process. There are other crons which may be planted now, but which do not come in as soon as the foregoing ones. These, however, will be very useful l o come in later. Included in their number are leeks, of which a late planting may be made now. Leeks should be planted in a trench of rich soil or else in holes made with a dibber if the plants are large enough. Other crops which mav be planted are silver beet and New Zealand spinach. For silver beet the ground needs to be enriched generously as a good supplv of available plant food is appreciated. When planting the silver beet the distance to allow the plants depends on the. tastes of the grower. If the fleshv midrib is desired the plants should be allowed about ]3in., or more on poorer soil, but where the, midrib is not desired the plants may be put out from 12 to 15in. apart. Soil for Spinach.

Being a gross feeder the spinach will require good soil and so it should be enriched liberally with stable manure, compost, etc., prior to the planting. The plants may be set out about 24in. apart in rows the same distance apart. New Zealand spinach should be kept to itself as much as {possible, as it is inclined to rob other crops in the vicinity in its search for sufficient food. To safeguard nearby crop's the soil, must be made rich by the incorporation of manure. If there are no plants for putting out. seed should be procured immediately and sown direct in (ho prepared bed. • Crops which will come on quickly in the immediate future are cress and radish. 'Although these are by no means mam crops, vet they will be found very useful in filling in any possible gaps in the supply of vegetables. MARROWS AND PUMPKINS. HARVESTING AND STORING. Marrows and pumpkins have proved difficult subjects this year and results have, been rather disappointing. The majority of pumpkins are dying off now and the produce will soon bo ready for harvesting. .As (Ik* crop is to be stored it should be allowed to reach a state of maturity on the plants. The-plants were given a setback during tho dry spell, despite aitificial watering. The pumpkins should be turned over as mentioned last week, in order to ripen all sides evenly. When the vines have died off the crop may he gathered and stored, the place of store being cool, dry ana wellventilated. A rack formed of laths, spaced about, an inch apart, is most suitable. The writer has found that, instead of dying off as pumpkins have, the marrow vines have taken a new lease of life and have started to make fresh growth. Ibis will naturally delay maturity and so harvesting and storing cannot be gone on with yet. It is essential that marrows for storing should ripen off completely on the vines if they are to keep as long as possible. Marrows may bo used, however, after they reach a certain stage in their development,. This stage is reached when tho " shell" offers resistance to the fingernail. The attention required by marrows at the present time consists of pinching the tins of the vines to prevent their further development. If the plants should happen to have died off tho matured marrows should be gathered and stored in the same way as pumpkins. After these two crops have been harvested fherC' is considerable clearing tip to ho done. This consists, not only of clearing up the dead vines oft the ground, but also of clearing up the plots of weeds. Weeds seem to come up more thickly where pumpkins and marrows have been, i The only explanation seems to be that weeds develop and unnoticed among th e vines. - '