HIGHWAYS OF FASHION.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIV, Issue 19720, 20 August 1927, Page 6 (Supplement)

HIGHWAYS OF FASHION.

WATERPROOF TAILOR-MADES.

" SUNSHINE " YELLOW.

IMPORTANCE OF DETAIL. [SPECIAL TO N.Z. HERALD.—COPYRIGHT.] LONDON, July 10. What a fleeting thing is London's summer season! June weather has been so unkind that it is difficult to realise that already we are on the brink of its concluding weeks. Only a few more fixtures remain. 1 loyal Henley Regatta, that glorious festival of youth, was simply ruined by the persistent rain. One could hardly distinguish the crews through a thick, misty curtain, and the, decorative river girl, with her bright-coloured clothes and gay balloons, was, of course, absent. In desperation people retired to hotels and

club-houses and danced—it seemetl tli'c only possible way to keep warm.

Iu Paris it has been the same story—in fact, on the eve of the Grand Prix everyone was talking waterproofs! The dressmakers were distracted, not knowing what to advise their special clients, endeavouring to evolve something that would be right no matter what the elements .decided to do. The only people who achieved any success' were the creators of rainproof tailor-mades. One famous tailor had held back some of his smartest mannequins until the eleventh hour, and, when the sun had definitely decided to remain in seclusion, he sent them along clad in these ultrachic sports .suits completely waterproofed —hats and all!

One of the nicest of these suits was of the new violet serpent-skin cloth, with a short and rather tight skirt, and equally short coat, a belt just resting on tho top of the hips. The wee opening in the front of the coat gave a glimpse of white collar and black tie, and a soft hat of the velvet stiff having a cluster of crystal grapes tucked at one side completed the outfit, and absolutely nothing to spoil! A very definite fashion which has appealed to all types is the grey ilannel suit. This vogue originated in Paris, where English flannel suits have rivalled summer frills and flowered chiffons at the fashionable race meetings. Now all London seems to have succumbed to the charm of these practical and becoming little garments. Although the grey flannel suit of fashion is perfectly plain, with its s!im little skirt suggesting almost a trouser effect, yet there is nothing really masculine in its appearance. Details are so carefully selected that it becomes charmingly demure. The grey felt hat worn with this has a wider brim that slightly waves round the face, with a silver hatpin as its sole trimming. Smoke grey fox fur with grey shoes and pochette complete this symphony in grey, the only contrasting note being the pale tan stockings and pull-on chamois gloves. Yellow is becoming increasingly popular. This "sunshine" colour is influencing our clothes in all shades from the creamy pallor of the primrose to the more greenish notes of the lemon. Carefully chosen, this can be the most flattering colour to almost any complexion, and, while most of the yellows are considered summer colours, it is only a short step to the flames and browns which I firmly believe we shall see launched in the new modes.

I have just seen an ensemble which was pronounced the last word in femininefashion and is in the collection of a very famous dress designer for showing with her autumn modes. It was in a lovely shade of red—which she laughingly called "currant jelly" red. This was a complete ensemble in the finest cloth and satin all in this lovely shade, the cloth coat having very original trimmings of calfskin, while the cloth skirt showed box pleats of soft satin beneath its flared front. These pleats were actually "sleeves" for the legs, which cling neatly round the knees and do not in the least impede the freedom of movement. With the skirt was worn a jumper of the same coloured reversible satin. Ihe role decoration is achieved by using the material on the reverse side to create a design. It was altogether so desirable I think I must sketch it for you, though you must conjure up the, lovely colour in your eye and get the full value of the design. While 1 have, made the "leg sleeve" very definite in the sketch, you can realise that when the skirt hangs straight you would not know it had this divided underslip.