THE HOME GARDEN

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIII, Issue 19221, 9 January 1926, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE HOME GARDEN

FLOWEB GAEDEN. A general overhaul of the garden is necessary after the holidays. The continued dry weather has caused most of the permanent trees and shrubs to shed some of their leaves. These will require to be raked up. All spent flowers, notably roses, pelargoniums, ind the first flowers of zinnias, should be picked off, also leaves of pelargoniums that are affected with fungus should be pulled off and burnt. Early-planted verbenas that have completed, their flowering should be cut back to break into fresh growth. Vittadenias and some other rock-garden plants should also be cut hard back. Do not cut the stems of lilies that have flowered, but allow them to properly ripen. Gladioli should be treated similarly. Attend to the staking of zinnias, tall, growing asters, perennial delphiniums, African marigolds, Michaelmas daisies, hollyhocks, and other late-growing annuals and perennials. Always provide a succession for each season. Sow-now in seed trays, or in pots or pans, cyclamens, antirrhinums, Iceland poppies, marguerite carnations, primroses, and polyanthus, aquilegias, gaillardias, Canterbury bells ageratums, and a few others, including wallflowers and sweet Williams, for autumn planting. Make it a golden rule to frequently stir the soil; this is most important at this season. After artificial watering the; surface invariably forms a crust when dry. A ligliit stirring will break this and give the ground a much better appearance and bring the moisture up. Dig under early-planted annuals that have completed their flowering. Dig deeply and apply manure if necessary, and allow the soil to sweeten for a \veek or more before replanting.

PROGRAMME OF WORK.

VEGETABLE GAEDEN. At this season there are often many plots of land available for treatment for future cropping. Such crops as peas, beans, and other varieties that are no longer producing, should bo removed, and the land again properly treated. Early potatoes should be dug as soon as sufficiently ripened for harvesting, as there is always a danger of a secondary growth being made if allowed to remain too long after the tubers are ripe. Beans sown in succession and picked regularly can bo kept in bearing from early summer to early winter. To grow summer lettuce, sow thinly in well-miinured soil, and tli'in out early, so that the plants never become crowded. Failing animal manure, superphosphate and nitrate of soda, at the rate of 2oz. of the former and loz. of the latter for each square yard, applied before planting, will do much to produce good plants. In sowing or planting late crops endeavour to alternate the varieties as much as possible, in no case sowing plants of the variety and character in the same soil. A change of soil will invariably produce much better results. For autumn and winter salads few plants aro more highly appreciated than well-grown celery. For culinary purposes, too, when well cooked it is one of the most delicate and delicious of vegetables, and, being 3 winter grower, is in use when many vegetables are scarce. Tomatoes will need careful watching to protect the fruits from caterpillars. In spraying the plants for disease, mix .a little arsenate of lead with the Bordeaux miylure. An occasional spraying after the fruit has formed is the best means of keeping the fruits free of these pests.

pends almost entirely upon tho attention and treatment bestowed during that time. During tho holiday season, grapo growers, like others, require relaxation, and there is naturally a tendency to do as little as possible during that time. LATERAL GROWTHS. Lateral growths increase vory rapidly, and if allowed to accumulate even for "a short time, will need all the more care to placo the work again under control, as most of tho later-started grapes are just at the stage when much loss of sap may materially injure tho crop. In such cases, the safest plan is to go over tho vines each day, or, every second day, removing a few from each vine unti'l tha work is again under control. ATTENTION TO BORDERS. The borders must have special attention, the roots on 110 account being allowed to suffer for the want of moisture. Owing to the long, dry spell, occasional watering has been necessary to maintain healthy growth. Vines are naturally gross feeders, . and any lack of moisture at tho roots at this stage of their growth often results in premature setting of the skin of the fruit, followed by splitting of the berries aftey the first heavy rains. MULCHING BORDERS. Early mulching, as frequently advised, assists to retain the moisture and lessen tho labour of watering. Grapes at tho colouring stage swell more rapidly than at any other time during their growth, and as high colour is nece.'sary to obtain good flavour, too much attention cannot bo given to their requirements to attain this result. VENTILATING VINERIES. Owing to the changeable weather, ventilation must be carefully attended to, for whilo plenty of ventilation ■is ail important factor in assisting colour, sudden changes or fluctuations of ternperaturo are by no means beneficial. In calm, warm weather, a little top ventilation left on during the night not only assists in colouring the fruit, but allows any vitiated air to escape, and lessens the risk of scorching of foliage or fruits. If tho vines, however, are trained well away from tho glass, s< as to allow ample room for the foliage to develop, and for the free circulation of air between tho glass and foliage there is little or no risk of scorching unless they are subject to neglect or careless treatment. Healthy, foliage is an important factor in the production of good grapes, for, without this, the most skilled grower could not succeed. FIGHTING MEALY BUG. Every effort must be made to protect tho vines from the vine grower's worst pests, mealy bug and red spider. Fumigation with cyanide is the most effective method of keeping the first-named pest under control, and although this treatment entails a certain amount of labour and. expense, beside caro in its application, as it is a deadly gas, it is certainly effective when properly applied, and has proved a great boon to grapegrowers. Red 'spider, however, is little affected by this process. Dry sulphur freely distributed over any foliage attacked by this pest is more effective. TO CORRESPONDENTS. a tamata.—!Names of native trees are:-—No. 1. Laurelia novas Zealandiffl (th» puKatea). '2. Woimannia racemosa (kamahi). 3. Motros.doros hypericifolia (tho climbtog rata). 4 Metrosideros robusta (the northern rata). t,. Aristotelia racemoaa (niakomako). t>. (Jlearia Cunninghamii colorafa (th« beketara). Iso. 7. Panax aboreum. N.M.G., Waihi,—Name of tho very pretty hardy evergreen shrub is Andromeda cateabiei. a North American species. , Bordeaux." Avondale.—Now is about tbfl pest time to prune tvro-year-old privet h'odjta that is ver.v bushy right to the ground, it may bo closely pruned or allowed to grow wide, according to space or requirement. 2. Re one or two of your tomatoes commencing to droop and tho leaves to turn a greyish brown: It is evidently the sleepy disease. At the present stage there is no remedy but to pull up and burn the affected plants. I< or rust on ceiery, Bordeaux is the best preventive. Use full strength and apply upon first appearance of the disease. W.J., Gisborne.—l?o leaves of peach and nectarine trees turning yellow and falling on: Dry conditions at the roots are most ii- y ;• cause. Further particulars as to cultivation of the soil around the trees and other conditions are necessary to properly answer your Query. Varieties of figs that do not ret their first crops and come too lat« to ripen the second, of which there ar» several, are either to 9 tender for the climat# or defective in fertilisation, requiring tho capri fig insoct for pollenation functions. N.F.A., Raglan.—The cause of your eieht-year-old poach failing to utart into growth this spring, after being, «p; - ayed and pruned as usual and the ground around it dug, is most likely due to root fungus. Dig UP somo of the roots. The fungus is detected bv the Btrong odour and rotting of the roots. This fungus is prevalent in old fern land. L.S.. Parnell.—An ideal liauid manurs, suitable for most plants, may be obtained by dissolving half an ounce each of saltpetre and sulphate of potash in one gallon of water. Tomatoes, after the fruits have commenced Betting, require plenty of phosphates. Sulphate of ammonia, nitrate 0/ soda, or sulphate of potash may bo applied in tho liauid form, or as a surface dressing loz. to 2oz. per sauare yard may be used. D.H.P.. Katikati.—Name of grass ,i» rhaiari3 culbosa (commutata). A perennial species crows 6ft. to 7ft. high, makes wonderful growth throughout the winter, and produces a great amount of nutritious herbage, of which cattle are very fond. It succeeds best when grown upon pood strong land. It resists frosts and drought, and is a valuable fodder producer. " Grupo"," Eotorua.—The specimens sent are far too dry and shrivelled to form any definite ' idea of. tho cause of the troubleTho berries, however, show indications of their having been attacked by mildew, which 'nay bo the cause of the excrescences shown upon the fruit. If this is the cause, tho foliage i 3 suro to be affected and will show a white, nowderv substance upon the leaves. Thoroughly dusting the foliago and fruits with powdered sulphur, or occasionally spraying the vines with Bordenux nr.xture. is an effective means of cheeking this disease. If the crop is affected tho same as specimens sent, it ia doubtful, even if sprayed, if the fruits will jevelop thia season, though dressing the vines will do much to check the disease for next season a crop. ' ~ isw

PROPAGATING CARNATIONS.

LAYERING METHODS.

Border carnations and picptees are invariably propagated by the process of layering. Start the layering after the soil is well soaked by rain. Layering is a method of causing the shoots to root when still fod by the parent plant.

GROWING VEGETABLES.

MOISTURE NEEDED.

The fine refreshing showers that fell during the early part of the week, "though quite inadequate to thoroughly soak the soil, had a most beneficial effect upon all growing crops. In well-worked loose soil especially the effec

was most marked, the depth to which the

rains penetrated being in striking contrast to ground having a hard, solid surface. In well-worked soil, too, the moisture is much longer retained, particularly if a nice looso surface is maintained by frequent hoeing. Sowing and planting, however, is still risky until further rain is experienced, as the harsh drying wind quickly dries up the soil and checks growth, especially of young seedling plants, unless kept well supplied with moisture.

CABBAGES AND

CAULIFLOWERS.

Recently - planted cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli and other c6hvorts will need occasional watering until tho plants become established, while further planting should be* made as soon as favourable conditions prevail. To protect the plants from the fly at the time of planting, a good plan is to dip the plants in a solution of arsenate of lead. This will adhere to tho foliage for a long time, particularly the under side of the leaves, and protect them frorii ravages of pests until established.