"SCHOOLS" OF FASHION.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXII, Issue 19028, 27 May 1925, Page 16

"SCHOOLS" OF FASHION.

Generally speaking the new modes arc practical and becoming, but there aro a good many pitfalls for the woman who lias nut, enough leisure to consider the new fashions fully. Those who have had an opportunity of visiting all the principal dress shows aro in a position to judge what styles are likely to be snccessful this season. The ultra-short evening dress has little to commend it except when a young girl is to wear it. Unless the wearer is very slightly built an evening frock loses dignity when abbreviated, as it is now, to abovo tUo knee-line. Panels and draperies which fall below this lino cannot overcomo the top-heavy effect of a diess which has the underskirt abovo the knees It cannot be denied that a model of this kind looks almost ridiculous on u woman who is not fashionably slim, says a writer in an exchange. The very short, perfectly straight evening gown, without trimming abovo the hips and elaborately beaded below, has been shown by most of tho best ' houses. The effect of "tho bead embroidery on the curtailed skirt often appears too heavy. It is to bo regretted that tho admirable simplicity—which shows the expert hand of the experienced couturicre—of last season has given place to a decided fussiness" of' line and trimming. I have heard several women criticise adversely the prevalent fashion for over-trimming tho new evening frocks. ' Take one model which was shown by a famous dressmaker: A daffodil georgette frock with a much draped skirt had a long trail of flowers down one side over a flowing panel; from each shoidder hung streamers of the georgette which were finished with "fly-away" shoulder bows. So much decoration detracted from the line of the frock, which might otherwise have been excellent. The new apron-skirts, showing a "hobble" underskirt—very short as well as light—and an "apron" over it, suits but few people. Tall women need to avoid them scrupulously—the short skirt cannot stand this further "cutting up." A new corsage line shown by prominent dressmakers might he described as the " bib-corsage." Both at the hack and front, the dress is carried almost to tho base of the neck and being very narrow over the shoulders accentuates the top of the. arm. which, in so many women, is anything but beautiful.. Monkey-fur has returned once more to favour. ('-loverly used it can be most effective. The latest way of treating it is to dyo the white portions a tawnyyeliow shade, which is not at all becoming to some complexions. On the whole the mock furs which are used so extensively on frocks and coats of gossannerlike texture are extremely becoming. Very lovely is the new cock's feather trimming used on race and evening coats. Flower wreaths take the place of collars on evening cloaks. The general use of "fur" at the neck on summer coats is probably : considered necessary to soften the hard line which tho shingled head gives t