THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LV, Issue 16823, 13 April 1918, Page 3 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN.

FLOWER GROWING. Dahlias are always at their best towards the middle and end of March, but, favoured by exceptionally warm, moist weather conditions, they have never been better tlian now. The growth is most luxuriant, and the plants are laden with blossoms. Towards the middle of November, continuing until about December 20, is the proper time to plant dahlias. Very early plantings flower during the hot summer months; the flowers lack substance and colour and are soon over; the foliage flags with the heat; caterpillars and thrips infest the plants, which never give such satisfactory results as those that come in during March and April, when they benefit by the long, dewy nights and cooler atmosphere, and are indispensable for garden decoration and cutting when other varieties of flowers are scarce. They provide a gay display until after the advent of the chrysanthemum season. Varieties of Dahlias. The varieties belonging to the various sections into which the dahlia family is divided afford a wide choice for selection to suit all tastes. The evolution from the formal double and few odd original singles, and later "Juarezii," the parent of the now popular cactus section, is truly marvellous. , Cactus dahlias are still most extensively grown. They comprise all colours'excepting blue. Some of the Mendings are approaching that much sought-after colour. Peony-flowered dahlias now vie with tho cactus, being special favourites for garden decoration

and cutting, their large, loosely-formed flowers and striking and exquisite shades being most attractive. The collarette is the most recent, and a most valuable addition to the family. The new creations in this class are extremely showy, producing large single flowers, with a collar of small secondary petals around the centre, giving the flowers a most con-

spicuous and decorative appearance.

Autumn Flowers.

Cosmcea, " the glory of the autumn garden," aro again in full bloom. Although the flowering period is of short duration, cosmcea are indispensable, owing to their attractive appearance. The flowers aro light and feathery, and most useful for cutting for indoor floral decorations. Great improvements have been, made upon the original types imported only a few years ago, some of the giantflowered kinds measuring over four inches across. The new double crown varieties are also an acquisition. Anemones, ranunculi, daffodils, ixias, and kindred species, also Spanish iris, freesias, and other hardy bulbs that were planted early in March are now well above the soil, conditions having been most favourable for their growth, the soil being moist and warm. Occasionally weed around them and keep the surface soil stirred. Continue the sowing of seeds of hardy annuals, and transplant stocks, nemesias, wallflowers, dianthus, campanulas, cinerarias, dimorphothecas, coreopsis grandiflora, and others that have been grown in boxes for the purpose. Good Edging Plants.

The planting of primroses, polyanthus, sea pints, violets, and other varieties for edgings may be proceeded with. Now is a good time to renew violet borders; take up the old plants and have the soil before replanting deeply dug and thoroughly manured, taking out some of the old soil and adding fresh. Plant single crowns about four inches apart. Violets are subject to the attack of red spider, and are better to have the old leaves cut off and the crowns dipped in a solution of Gishurst's compound to thoroughly cleanse them from insects. Seasonable Work.

Michaelmas daisies, hcleniums, solidagos, rubeckias, perennial sunflowers, and other herbaceous perennials that have completed tlnV flowering should have the old stems cut back to the surface. Seedling weeds are difficult to get rid of at this season; the best plan is to lightly dig the surface over and turn them under. By this means the beds will be kept free from weeds until well into the winter. Newly-made lawns should have thensurfaces regulated in readiness for sowing and raking in the grass seed, which should be done at once. Other portions that have been prepared for laying down in grass should also bo sown. Also vacant spots that have been dug over for sowing in clovorß or oats for winter cover. THE VINERY.

Late grapes that are still hanging upon tho vines will, from this time onward, require very careful handling to keep the berries in. a- sound, condition. The heavy

rains and warm, humid atmosphere are anything but favourable for keeping late grapes.' In such weather ventilation cannot be given without injury unless aided by artificial heat, and the great amount of moisture that arises by evaporation in a close house is almost sure to cause rot in the berries. All bunches should be carefully examined three or four times a week, and any berries showing the least signs of decay at once removed, or the decay will quickly spread to othor fruit.

Ripe Fruit and Decay. Although no grapes are proof against decay, when unfavourable weather conditions prevail, the more imperfectly ripened berries are certainly more liable to decay than highly-coloured, well-ripened fruit. It is seldom there is any loss through decay of berries until the present month, and it is mostly with tho later varieties that any difficulty is experienced. The fact is that in most instances the late varieties of grapes are not started early enough in the season to allow the fruit to mature and thoroughly colour ami ripen before the end of March. After that time ii is almost impossible, with the steadily-decreasing temperature, heavy dews, and moist atmosphere, to add colour to the grapes, and equally difficult to prevent rotting of the berries. Late' Season's Work. Attention has frequontly been called to the importance of covering the floor of the house with either concrete or asphalt. If this is done the temperature can do better regulated, and there is not the same amount of evaporation as when the floor is composed of damp soil. Houses from which the fruit has been taken should be at once thrown open, admitting as much ventilation as possible. All young or secondary laterals should be removed, as these, if allowed to grow, retard the ripening of the wood. The foliage should be kept in as clean and as healthy a condition as possible, until it falls natur-

ally from the vines. Too often little or no attention is given to the vines alter the crop is secured, but it should be borne in mind that it is when the sap is returning, and while the foliage remains fresh, that root action i» going on briskly, so that any lobb of foliage prematurely, whether caused by neglect or by insect pests, is certain to check healthy root action.

Hints on Manuring Vines. At this time some stimulating manure can be applied to the borders with advantage. In most instances vines ate pretty heavily taxed, and require all the assistance that can be given. No matter how carefully the borders are prepared, the manurial properties that are essential to healthy growth and fruitfulness are absorbed after two or three years, and must be roplaced to ensure success, and although this need not all be done at one season of the year, it is most essontial that the roots should bo supplied with some stimulant during the autumn, when the sap is returning. Manure in a liquid form is best applied at this timo.

Keeping Down Insect Pests. Every effort should be mad« to keep insect pests from injuring the foliage. Often after tho fruit is cut little attempt is made to destroy or even check these pests, with tho result that the foliage is attacked and falls prematurely. With such posts as mealy bug and thrips fumigation is effectual ; with red spider, however, fumigating has little or no effect. The best means of dealing with this pest is to thoroughly dust the foliage with dry sulphur. No effort should bo spared to eradicate this scourge, for if left unmolested they quickly sap all vitality from the foliage. Kepoß. HINTS TO GARDENERS. A method has at last been discovered for preserving permanently the green colouring matter of leaves, and of green seaweeds. Dr. A. B. Rendle, F.R.S., speaking of this discovery to a representative of the Observer, said: "The great problem has been how to preserve the colour, and in the case of green colouring matter in leaves the problem has boon solved by making use of tho principle that it is possible to form a chemical compound with the chlorophyll which is permanent. The method adopted is to steep the green plant in a boiling solution of copper acetate, in acetic acid. Tho acetate combines with the chlorophyll to form a permanent green colouring mattor. In other words, you have fixed the original colour, and the plants can then be dried in the ordinary way.

The hyacinth increases in size and each year produces finer spikes. After the fifth year it often splits up into many small bulbs, which in their turn increase in sizn the same as the parent bulb. Therefore, it is a wise plan to placo the small offsets each year into small beds by hemselves until they become blooming bulbs, when they may be used in the borders or in beds where a bold effect is required. The bed for the hyacinth should be prepared some time before the bulbs are put in. During the growing season liquid manure will be of good service to give rich colours to the blooms. If blooms of medium size are only required, nil that is needed is a well-trenched soil, with a liberal allowance of rotted manure turned in, as well as laid on the surface of tho bet