LONDON FASHION NOTES.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LI, Issue 15730, 3 October 1914, Page 3 (Supplement)

LONDON FASHION NOTES.

The outbreak of war in Europe has naturally affected the world of fashion jnst as it has affected ' every other phase of j social and industrial life. Naturally dress will not be a matter of paramount importance while national affairs are in to unsettled a state, but Dame Fashion can never be totally disregarded even though kingdoms fall! Therefore a few notes as to the general trend of fashions will indicate the main lines on which the coming styles will be formed.

Tailor-Made Costumes. These are still much in favour. The material must be clinging, such as garbardine, charmeuse, taffetas, fine cloth, silk, cashmere, fine serge etc. While white is to be preferred navy blue, light green, suede, biscuit, rosewood however are suitable and make very becoming costumes. The change in shape is slight. Small boleros prettily frilled at the bottom, smart casaquins of -round and long coats or coats lengthened out like redingotes are still the fashion. It is noticeable that these garments only show the waist vaguely; their greatest charm' consists in the original collars carried out yi lingerie of communicant muslin, light starched, with which they are completed. Skirts are distinguished by a tendency to get wider. Gathered or lightly pleated at the top they are very wide over the hips and drawn in at the bottom. Others very wide at the top, are trimmed with flounces one above the other and are quite charming. Lampshade tunics are also very pretty but the greatest success is achieved by light and finely pleated tunics which are carried out in two or three frills. The tunic is mostly of a different colour combining harmoniously with that of the skirt. The perfectly plain shapes without flounces or tunics are the most becoming for tailor-made gowns. It is of course understood that the fabric chosen is of almost impalpable lightness and that the tints are almost always very pale.

Blouses. The form has changed but little, that is to say, they are still very low-necked and very roomy, but the trimming is richer. Only the finest lace in used to fill in the low necks which are still so much the fashion—and the sanle fine lace edges the shortened sleeves and servos as insertion for the blouse. Handsome embroideries are used for the collar-vest, insertions on the other parts giving the bodies a rich appearance. All this trimming, ' however, may be replaced to great advantage with fine lingerie embroidered or simply edged with hemstitching bordering the wide hem or a band which forms part of the trimming. Lingerie blouses may be extremely simple; just trimmed with piping or a wide collar. White is the most favoured, but madonna blue, old rose mauve will be found charming tints.

Tire style known as chemise may be particularly noted. It is as becoming as it is useful, but is only suitable for very light fabrics such as'mousseline, organde, crepe ■de chine, etc. Quite straight . and buttoned at the back below the waist, the skirt being trimmed with narrow flouncing, this dress is of youthful and graceful "appearance. The belt is placed very low. . Gabardine and taffetas make handsome toilettes, but it is a question which is. prettier. The styles in theses are • always more or less complicated, and it most be left to taste to find among the thousand and one fancies a suitable costume of sober and real elegance.

Feathers in Millinery. Their trimming consists almost exclusively of feathers, wings being predominant. They are of all colours, quiet or bright, always in harmony with the leading colour of the costumes. Either small or of medium size the wings are placed on the brim, or laid on the edge eo that in an original fashion the whole hat is covered with small wings, an arrangement which gives the idea of a small bird caught in a net. Here and there a few flowers may show, but the chief vogue of the moment is feathers of all kinds.

The choice of suitable shape however must be left to the individual taste.